GM Bare Block for Build?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 15
From: Martinsburg WV
GM Bare Block for Build?
I think Im gonna go with a GM parts direct bare 350 block to start my build. Would there be any differenced between these and a stock L98? Does anyone happen to know if these can be bought new from GM bored .30 over?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 9
GM makes just what you need: If you get the 1 Piece Rear main seal block, setup for the factory roller cam, it is better than the L98 block and is a 4 bolt. The 4 bolt mains are really the only difference over a late L98 block, but is still a significant improvement. Don't buy the 2 piece rear main seal replacement block, it is not a quality piece. No, GM does not sell one bored .030 over.
Last edited by Mr6spd; Sep 23, 2007 at 08:25 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,328
Likes: 14
From: Stafford Connecticut
There is a site on the internet that sells cncd blocks that are all ready machined for making a 383 they are one piece rear main seal roller blocks. but I dont think I am supposed to mention that site here
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Mr6spd
If you get the 1 Piece Rear main seal block, setup for the factory roller cam, it is better than the L98 block and is a 4 bolt.
Why on earth would you want to pay to throw away .030" worth of wear surface, cylinder wall strength, heat dissipation capability, and/or meat for a future overhaul, by boring a brand new block .030" over sized? For the silly 6, or so, cubic inches???
RACE ON!!!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 2
From: port charlotte fl
The L98 block IS a one piece rear main seal block from 1986 and up. The 1987 and up L98 used the roller cam. So unless some particular block has 4 bolt mains, the one piece rear main seal block ISN'T better than most L98 blocks.
Why on earth would you want to pay to throw away .030" worth of wear surface, cylinder wall strength, heat dissipation capability, and/or meat for a future overhaul, by boring a brand new block .030" over sized? For the silly 6, or so, cubic inches???
RACE ON!!!
Why on earth would you want to pay to throw away .030" worth of wear surface, cylinder wall strength, heat dissipation capability, and/or meat for a future overhaul, by boring a brand new block .030" over sized? For the silly 6, or so, cubic inches???
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 15
From: Martinsburg WV
Yea I was thinking 355 or 383 build but I guess I shouldnt bother. I plan on building a 350 with forged internals and an lt1 intake swap. I also want to swap my 4+3 for a zf6. I want at least 400rwhp.
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio Texas
Ok... actually a "seasoned" (used) block is better. It's gone through many heat cycles, and the metal has stableized. You over-bore a used block to obtain a fresh cylinder surface and correct for wear, scratches and stuff. It sounds like you don't have a lot of experience with building motors, so unless you're really wanting to get into it , I'd suggest a rebuilt 383 short or long block(with heads).
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 2
From: The Motor City
... [erroneous information removed]
When building a street motor on a budget, go with a good "seasoned" used block if you can.
Last edited by TheCorvetteKid; Sep 25, 2007 at 10:41 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by staugur
I'm thinking stroker??
A 350, stock stroke, plus stock 4.00" bore = 350 cid.
A 350, stock stroke, plus .030" overbore = 355 cid.
A 350, with a 3.75" stroke, plus stock 4.00" bore = 377.
A 350, with a 3.75" stroke, plus .030" overbore = 383.
With a stock stroke the .030" over bore gives you 5 cid. With the stroker crank it gives you 6. As I said, "Why on earth would you want to pay to throw away .030" worth of wear surface, cylinder wall strength, heat dissipation capability, and/or meat for a future overhaul, by boring a brand new block .030" over sized? For the silly 6, or so, cubic inches???"
Originally Posted by TheCorvetteKid
Over-boring also corrects for any minor core-shift in the block too.
RACE ON!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: Granbury TX
Hay VETtBYRD! Do yourself a favor and get a GM Performance Catalog at your local Chevy dealer. They show all the blocks that are availabe. If it were me I would buy the GM 383 short block and go from there. If you got the bucks, the 383 crate engine is hard to beat. But if you want to do it the hard way, they must list 30 different configurations of blocks, including the 400cid block. I personally built a 400 a few years ago and installed it in my 87 coupe. Nice engine. Has about 500 HP.
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,581
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From: The Motor City
So you're saying that absolutely no core shift occurs after a block is cast, despite who many times it may have been heat-cycled?
Last edited by TheCorvetteKid; Sep 23, 2007 at 06:44 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,339
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From: port charlotte fl
[QUOTE=CFI-EFI;1562026345]And your point is??? Are you saying a standard bore block can't be stroked
No. I'm saying that when i read something like that,written by someone who apparently is not that knowledgeable, I assumed he was thinking 383 as 30 thou' over is a start point.Two posts later I was proved right.You really have a way about you that gets peoples backs up for no reason.
No. I'm saying that when i read something like that,written by someone who apparently is not that knowledgeable, I assumed he was thinking 383 as 30 thou' over is a start point.Two posts later I was proved right.You really have a way about you that gets peoples backs up for no reason.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by TheCorvetteKid
So you're saying that absolutely no core shift occurs after a block is cast, despite who many times it may have been heat-cycled?
RACE ON!!!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Some deliver the message with a Coke and a smile, and others with a claw hammer.
At least the mesage is good.
At least the mesage is good.
Originally Posted by staugur
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Why on earth would you want to pay to throw away .030" worth of wear surface, cylinder wall strength, heat dissipation capability, and/or meat for a future overhaul, by boring a brand new block .030" over sized? For the silly 6, or so, cubic inches???
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Originally Posted by staugur
No. I'm saying that when i read something like that,written by someone who apparently is not that knowledgeable, I assumed he was thinking 383 as 30 thou' over is a start point.Two posts later I was proved right.You really have a way about you that gets peoples backs up for no reason.
Originally Posted by vettebyrd
Yea I was thinking 355 or 383 build but I guess I shouldnt bother.
RACE ON!!!