C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

What Would You Do?

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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 07:03 PM
  #21  
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It sounds like you have a good combination chosen for what you want to do. I have to say though that if I was building this engine I would lean more towards something like the CompCam XFI 268, 280 cams. I was unable to find the specs that I really needed on the cam you chose so I can not say for sure how it operate but at first glance the duration @0.50 is a little soft for 6000RPM. The cams I listed are in reality a little short to really hit 6000 RPM hard but for the sake of drivability you will have to give up a little top end there. If you have a builder I would talk with him a little about it and maybe even talk with LPE and see what they have to say. Between the two of them you should be able to make sure that the cam reflects the way you want the car to run/drive. I tend to not mind drivability problems and love top end power so my cam choice will most likely be different from your ideal choice (I don't run hydraulic cams in my personal engines). So take a look at my recommendations and see what you think.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 07:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Deakins
It sounds like you have a good combination chosen for what you want to do. I have to say though that if I was building this engine I would lean more towards something like the CompCam XFI 268, 280 cams. I was unable to find the specs that I really needed on the cam you chose so I can not say for sure how it operate but at first glance the duration @0.50 is a little soft for 6000RPM. The cams I listed are in reality a little short to really hit 6000 RPM hard but for the sake of drivability you will have to give up a little top end there. If you have a builder I would talk with him a little about it and maybe even talk with LPE and see what they have to say. Between the two of them you should be able to make sure that the cam reflects the way you want the car to run/drive. I tend to not mind drivability problems and love top end power so my cam choice will most likely be different from your ideal choice (I don't run hydraulic cams in my personal engines). So take a look at my recommendations and see what you think.
Thanks, I did everything your're talking about. And for driveablity I think the 219 will work out. More aggressive will lope the idle too much, etc.... I still want it mild mannered.

Plus, that cam was designed with the intake I'm using in mind. They are a matched set.

What ever it is, it will be better than what I got.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 11:03 PM
  #23  
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Just read an article on a Ford crate engine (you know I MUST have been bored to read about a FORD!).

Anyway, they dynoed it, then pulled the cam that came with it and installed a CompCams XE that had the same duration - well the CC did have 2 degree more exhaust duration.

BANG! BANG! With no other change, 49 HP and 42 ft/lbs torque increase.

Food for thought.

Jake
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 11:10 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by JAKE
Just read an article on a Ford crate engine (you know I MUST have been bored to read about a FORD!).

Anyway, they dynoed it, then pulled the cam that came with it and installed a CompCams XE that had the same duration - well the CC did have 2 degree more exhaust duration.

BANG! BANG! With no other change, 49 HP and 42 ft/lbs torque increase.

Food for thought.

Jake
Thanks. 40 HP over what? The standard cam? I don't think the 2 degrees is going to hurt anything.

How did the cam they replaced compare to the stock cam in the L98?
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 11:29 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jsup
Thanks. 40 HP over what? The standard cam? I don't think the 2 degrees is going to hurt anything.

How did the cam they replaced compare to the stock cam in the L98?
My point is, Comp's 'GOT IT GOING ON!'.

Jake
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 11:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JAKE
My point is, Comp's 'GOT IT GOING ON!'.

Jake
Cool. But that's only 2* off what I already ordered, so they have to be pretty close, no?
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 11:42 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod 90
there's a variety of sources where you can get AFR Eliminator 180cc heads for about $1450, a google search reveals this. problem is, the smaller of the two choices available in chamber size is 65cc. so in jsup's case that's $1450 + about $50 shipping + $200 angle milling = about $1700.
I got the Brodix for $1400, done...inclusive of milling, plus shipping.
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 12:11 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jsup
Cool. But that's only 2* off what I already ordered, so they have to be pretty close, no?
No, let me try to clarify this a bit. I was trying to show how two cams, from different companies, with virtually the same specs, can produce vastly different power levels.

The engine was shipped from FORD with a cam that made 616 HP and 6xx in torque. By just pulling that cam and installing a CompCams XE - which has virtually the same .050 duration specs - the engine picked up over 40 HP.

I was trying to show how going with Comp's stuff keeps you on the cutting edge. Hell, even Harvey Crane said so. I read that in an article in one of the mags of an interview with Harvey.

Cams from other companies work well and many guys seem to be happy with them, it's just that Comp is at the top of the mountain when it comes to cam designs.

It takes a multi-million dollar operation to do what they do. Their over-head must be outrageous. The research, design, testing, quality control standards, manufacturering equipment costs, etc. Takes BIG BUCKS to have an operation like that; most others can't even come close to competing, but they do post really nice, color ads, don't they.

I had a TPIS ZZ9 checked on a computer and the specs were way off from those that were advertised. Guys love GM's Hot Cam (catchy name chosen to sell the cam), but the Hot Cam's ramps don't do anything for me.

Just look at what the Big Boys are running, the NASCAR and PRO STOCK guys. Who does most of their cams? Two names come to mind, CompCams and Crane. With their sponsorship budget they can run any cam company's stick they want.

But like anything else, it's your choice.

Jake
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 12:19 AM
  #29  
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How would that cam play with a Super Ram, which is built for torque and lower end performance?
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 05:46 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jsup
How would that cam play with a Super Ram, which is built for torque and lower end performance?
I feel I still haven't explained what I was getting at well enough. I'm now sorry I even brought it up.

Let me try it one last time, this way: If you're trying to decide between two cams, say the GM Hot Cam, the LPE cam and one from CompCams - all having the SAME duration specs - I'd recommend the CompCams version.

I used the FORD cam swap article as an example.

The cams I referenced and that were used in the FORD dyno comparison is much too radical for your purposes.

Jake
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 06:22 PM
  #31  
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Contrary to what some have stated plan on buying pushrods: if you're doing a cam head swap you should always check for proper pushrod length.

Mike
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 06:34 PM
  #32  
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Here's an XE I've had in my Summit wishlist for awhile:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...12%2D8&FROM=MG
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 07:08 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by jsup
How would that cam play with a Super Ram, which is built for torque and lower end performance?
If it helps, the point JAKE is trying to make, is that Competition Cams uses more aggressive valve action than other grinders. Having the same valve timing and the same lift, the cam will exhibit all the same characteristics. It will have torque peak and horsepower peak at the same rpms. Because the ramps are more aggressive, the valves open and close more quickly. There is more area under the curve, of lift vs time. The operating properties will be identical, but because there is more valve open area, it will flow more A/F and produce more power. I don't know if that is any better or not. For what it's worth.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 07:50 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Contrary to what some have stated plan on buying pushrods: if you're doing a cam head swap you should always check for proper pushrod length.

Mike
Thanks,
I'm doing new pushrods.
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 07:53 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JAKE
I feel I still haven't explained what I was getting at well enough. I'm now sorry I even brought it up.

Let me try it one last time, this way: If you're trying to decide between two cams, say the GM Hot Cam, the LPE cam and one from CompCams - all having the SAME duration specs - I'd recommend the CompCams version.

I used the FORD cam swap article as an example.

The cams I referenced and that were used in the FORD dyno comparison is much too radical for your purposes.

Jake
Thanks. Wish I had known this before ordering the LPE. The Comp Cam is about $75 cheaper too.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 01:04 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
If it helps, the point JAKE is trying to make, is that Competition Cams uses more aggressive valve action than other grinders. Having the same valve timing and the same lift, the cam will exhibit all the same characteristics. It will have torque peak and horsepower peak at the same rpms. Because the ramps are more aggressive, the valves open and close more quickly. There is more area under the curve, of lift vs time. The operating properties will be identical, but because there is more valve open area, it will flow more A/F and produce more power. I don't know if that is any better or not. For what it's worth.

RACE ON!!!
Thanks for the helping hand. I don't think I was getting through.

I've got to work on my communication skills. LOL

Jake
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 01:06 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Contrary to what some have stated plan on buying pushrods: if you're doing a cam head swap you should always check for proper pushrod length.

Mike

Excellent point because I just read an article on a SB build up and when checked, it called for 8.100" pushrods.

Jake
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