Polyurethane conversion?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Polyurethane conversion?
I'm setting up my C-4 for road-course racing and want to change out all my rubber bushings for polyurethane, and see the kits (F&R) cost less than $300.00, (See www.vbandp.com) but what can I expect for labor charges?
It looks like a big job, has anyone done it or had it done? How many hours for labor?
Thanks-
It looks like a big job, has anyone done it or had it done? How many hours for labor?
Thanks-
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,374
Likes: 86
From: Corbin KY
Depends on HOW you do it. If you are able to do so, I would pull the parts off the car and take JUST to parts that have to be pressed out OR cut them out yourself if you can.
If you drop off the car and have them do it all, I would guess 600 bucks (10 hours at 60 bucks a hour) pluss they will have to realign the car after you replace them.
Do you have the ability to do it through the winter little by litte on your own?
If you drop off the car and have them do it all, I would guess 600 bucks (10 hours at 60 bucks a hour) pluss they will have to realign the car after you replace them.
Do you have the ability to do it through the winter little by litte on your own?
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I did all mine myself. But you must have access to a press (I used a 5 tone but don't know if a smaller one will work).
The only hard one is the front upper arm. It presses in from the front. I made a support for the aframe since the manual tells you that you can (and probably most certainly) bend the arm without support. My brace was made from 2 pieces of angle that was cut to the exact length of the inside distance between the open part of the frame. That allowed me to press the bushing into the arm without fear of bending the arm together since there is no support.
The sway bar is no treat either, but still pretty easy.
You must remove a couple of the factory metal bushings on the outside of the rubber bushing. It seems that the sway bar uses this extra "shim" bushing as well as a control arm in the rear. They are real soft, just be careful and don't cut the inner part of the control arm.
Good luck/
The only hard one is the front upper arm. It presses in from the front. I made a support for the aframe since the manual tells you that you can (and probably most certainly) bend the arm without support. My brace was made from 2 pieces of angle that was cut to the exact length of the inside distance between the open part of the frame. That allowed me to press the bushing into the arm without fear of bending the arm together since there is no support.
The sway bar is no treat either, but still pretty easy.
You must remove a couple of the factory metal bushings on the outside of the rubber bushing. It seems that the sway bar uses this extra "shim" bushing as well as a control arm in the rear. They are real soft, just be careful and don't cut the inner part of the control arm.
Good luck/
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Ringgold Georgia
I did mine as well. I had to make a brace to prevent bending the A frame. I did it along with a total motor and front end rebuild. The suspension bushings were the easier part of of al that. A press is necessary.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
So since you have the skills just break it up into two sections IE do the rear one weekend and then the front the next.
Plan on an alignment on the following Monday.
Mike
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,374
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From: Corbin KY
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
It's not hard, just takes a long time since you have to just about remove the entire suspension. For this reason, I would absolutely not pay someone else to do it. Huge labor hours, and they'll probably screw something up on reassembly.
I did it in bits and pieces and combined it with other work.
I did it in bits and pieces and combined it with other work.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 0
From: Leeds Alabama
Do you have a picture of the brace you made OR pictures of you doing this work?
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 0
From: Delray beach FL
dont you think that having poly bushings is not that good for the car frame ?
As you are loosing the "ruber" flex from stock bushings, the car frame takes much more torsion and flexion constraight that are normaly absorb by stock bushings ?
As you are loosing the "ruber" flex from stock bushings, the car frame takes much more torsion and flexion constraight that are normaly absorb by stock bushings ?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
Hardest part is getting old bushes out.Have done 2 cars now by using a small drill bit to destroy rubber bush .Can then just knock outer steel liner loose.
In extreme wear cases may not even need to drill bush; will fall apart in your hands , especially bottom rear arm bushes.
If you don't do the batwing bushes can just do rear piece by piece ; one side at a time.No need to dismantle car
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Talked to the local Corvette specialist here in town and he said roughly $500 for his work plus the price of the bushings, so about $850.00 total, so I think I'll go that route!
-Rick-
-Rick-
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 484
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From: Redwood City CA
Hu
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Keaau Hi
Poly bushing kit thru Summit were less expensive, not a real hard job, just a few bad words, but a press was required, upper A arms were the harders, like another member said drill out the rubber, knock out the steel sleve and presto, out with the old, new are mostlt 2 piece, use LOTS of the supplied lube.
Did my complete suspension, alone, took a few days and like I said just a few bad words.
Did my complete suspension, alone, took a few days and like I said just a few bad words.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Keaau Hi
I dont recall the exact number of items but the kit came with everything except the swaybar and end link bushings.(front and rear)
For the A-arm I just used a rectangular piece of metal bar to keep it from bemding when installing to the rod that slips through the to keep it from bending, nothing fancy.
Hopes this help you out cause I have been helped here and advised many many times and try to give back when I can! I think the summitt kit was about $175.00 or so plus shipping....naturally
Just as a footnote the batwing bushings, I did one side at a time, drilling the rubber was a mus thwen I used a screwdriver/chisel to remove the steel sleve. It can be done, I'm a first timer with vettes but do posses a little mechanical knowledge, if I can do it believe me you can to. Dont forget to let us know how it goes and how much green is left in your pocket after you do it yourself!!!
For the A-arm I just used a rectangular piece of metal bar to keep it from bemding when installing to the rod that slips through the to keep it from bending, nothing fancy.
Hopes this help you out cause I have been helped here and advised many many times and try to give back when I can!
I think the summitt kit was about $175.00 or so plus shipping....naturallyJust as a footnote the batwing bushings, I did one side at a time, drilling the rubber was a mus thwen I used a screwdriver/chisel to remove the steel sleve. It can be done, I'm a first timer with vettes but do posses a little mechanical knowledge, if I can do it believe me you can to. Dont forget to let us know how it goes and how much green is left in your pocket after you do it yourself!!!
Last edited by Puna; Oct 5, 2007 at 02:30 AM.