C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear end shakes

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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 10:54 PM
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Default Rear end shakes

I've had my 92 coupe for almost two years and it has 315's on the back. It has always had a lot of out of balance type shake. When I put new tires on last year it was better but not perfect with two road force balances to try and get it right. GY GSD3's.... Pulling on the wheels top and botton I get a little play, left and right not as much. Wheel bearings? Bushings? Or just not balanced big wheels? Any recommendations on getting back a good firm ride?
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 11:01 PM
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I would check the ujoints directly. A bad one, IE, all dried up and stiff, would do this.

How many miles on the car?
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by bogus
I would check the ujoints directly. A bad one, IE, all dried up and stiff, would do this.

How many miles on the car?
Around 115K, how would I check the U joints for stiffness without taking them out and then I might as well replace them? And While there wheel bearings too?
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 09:48 AM
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Are there any links to wheel bearing and U joint replacement? Is the U joint that needs replacement the one closest to the diff?
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by EvanD
Around 115K, how would I check the U joints for stiffness without taking them out and then I might as well replace them? And While there wheel bearings too?
Checking the bearings and u-joints properly requires disassembly. With 115K miles, it is time to replace the lot. Its a challenging task, but not so difficult as to require paying someone.

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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Hi Evan,

Here is a site that sells tapered bearings which are much better for our type of driving.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=270157684926

If you are going to do this yourself, let me know as I've done rear wheel bearings before. You just have to have the right tools.

Tom
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Strick
Hi Evan,

Here is a site that sells tapered bearings which are much better for our type of driving.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=270157684926

If you are going to do this yourself, let me know as I've done rear wheel bearings before. You just have to have the right tools.

Tom
Thanks Tom, I didn't know there were any tapered bearing ones only ball. Double the price of ball though. Other than the T-55 what will I need for U joints and bearings? And a big hammer of course...

Best source for U joints?

Last edited by EvanD; Sep 29, 2007 at 01:21 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EvanD
Thanks Tom, I didn't know there were any tapered bearing ones only ball. Double the price of ball though. Other than the T-55 what will I need for U joints and bearings? And a big hammer of course...

Best source for U joints?
Actually, the price on this site ($139.99) is less than Eckler's AC Delco @ $279.99 each. Don't buy too cheap as they don't last too long.

Other tools, I had to use my 3/4" drive breaking bar to loosen the big nut. You should also be ready to torque that bolt to a valve higher than most torque wrenches go to.

U-joints, I haven't bought any, yet. I'd probably go to the dealer for them unless someone here has a better place to go. I haven't figured out which is best, with Zerks for grease or without.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Strick
Actually, the price on this site ($139.99) is less than Eckler's AC Delco @ $279.99 each. Don't buy too cheap as they don't last too long.

Other tools, I had to use my 3/4" drive breaking bar to loosen the big nut. You should also be ready to torque that bolt to a valve higher than most torque wrenches go to.

U-joints, I haven't bought any, yet. I'd probably go to the dealer for them unless someone here has a better place to go. I haven't figured out which is best, with Zerks for grease or without.
No problem have the socket and torque wrench.... U joints are in both Eklers and MAM. I went to Fun Fest should have bought them then but the shake got worse on the trip...

I don't know if my ebay account still works, I signed up and never used it. The ball bearing ones from that site are supposed to be the best BB ones and they are $69.

Anything else to look at under there? I know the shocks are good.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by EvanD
No problem have the socket and torque wrench.... U joints are in both Eklers and MAM. I went to Fun Fest should have bought them then but the shake got worse on the trip...

I don't know if my ebay account still works, I signed up and never used it. The ball bearing ones from that site are supposed to be the best BB ones and they are $69.

Anything else to look at under there? I know the shocks are good.
How are your bushings, brakes, fluid in the diff? I also suggest a 4 wheel alignment when you are done.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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Bushings look old but tight, brakes are good diff fluid was changed before Fun Fest. I guess I just need to decide on which bearing BB or TR....
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by EvanD
Bushings look old but tight, brakes are good diff fluid was changed before Fun Fest. I guess I just need to decide on which bearing BB or TR....
When I do mine I'll use the taper bearings just because I like to turn.
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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...if you never replaced the bearings or u-joints or know when they were replaced, instead of guessing when the next failure will be, replace all the half-shaft u-joints and bearings all at one tiome and be done with it.....i had a squeak that seemed to be at the LR and instead of guessing if it was the joint or bearing and not knowing the history, i replaced all........your choice, either tear into the rear end again at a later date or do it all now....good luck...
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 05:39 PM
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So, how bad or long is it, to do it all? My 94 vibrates at about 65 mph. Can feel it most coming through the gear shift. (6 speed.) No unusual clunks or noises, but it does have 103K on the clock.

If I took it to a repair shop, what kind of bill am I looking at? (Ball park of course.) I agree in that if I am going to pull one, I might as well do it all.

Thanks!
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ambaker94
So, how bad or long is it, to do it all? My 94 vibrates at about 65 mph. Can feel it most coming through the gear shift. (6 speed.) No unusual clunks or noises, but it does have 103K on the clock.

If I took it to a repair shop, what kind of bill am I looking at? (Ball park of course.) I agree in that if I am going to pull one, I might as well do it all.

Thanks!
You need some wheel bearings my 95 did the same thing. I think it calls for 4 or 5 hours of labor @$75 per hour. When I swapped mine out it went OK no major problems any one with basic hand tools(and a good back) can do it.
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 02:20 PM
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Thanks guys, I have tools and ordered the parts, bearings and a full set of u joints, including the drive shaft in case those need to be done too. I didn't oder the front wheel bearings, they might be next....
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 01:10 PM
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One side done and even though I could not feel anything wrong with the wheel bearing itself and on Ujoint looked gaulled it is unbelivable how tight the rear end is pulling on the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. I always saw on here a little movement is OK, well it's tight now!

Both sides done and the rear is tight now...

Took a test drive and I think I have some rear tire balance issues. Also now that the rear is tight I can feel the front is loose so I guess front wheel bearings are next. I bought U joints for the drive shaft so that'll have to be done too. And new GSD3's....

Last edited by EvanD; Oct 5, 2007 at 09:18 PM.
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