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Alternative brake bleeding process?

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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 10:26 AM
  #1  
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Default Alternative brake bleeding process?

This will soon be about Corvettes.

Yesterday, I was unable to fully bleed the front brakes on my motorcycle using a Mighty Vac, hoses into bottles, pump and squirt, etc. Like usual, I turned to the Internet. The advice I found was to ziptie the brake lever in the engaged position and leave it that way overnight. I just came in from the garage and it worked.

My Vette question is whether anyone has tried this with a the clutch or brake system of a Corvette. Since I can't think of a good reason why it worked on the motorcycle, I can't think why it would not work on a car.
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 10:29 AM
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You can gravity bleed, just have to make sure the MC doesnt run dry. Like the speedbleeders, pretty convenient.
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 10:59 AM
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I use a Powerbleeder. The type with a 1 gal can that you pump up. The only pain is getting the adapter to seal on the master cylinders. Once that is done it is no fuss no muss. Just pump it up to 30psi and let the fluid flow.
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by elkabong
I use a Powerbleeder. The type with a 1 gal can that you pump up. The only pain is getting the adapter to seal on the master cylinders. Once that is done it is no fuss no muss. Just pump it up to 30psi and let the fluid flow.

When I re-did my brakes I installed SS lines and speedbleeders. I bought a powerbleeder canister off an eBay store and it works great. Now I don't have a problem bleeding brakes once a year as should be done.
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 11:40 AM
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Using SpeedBleeders is probably the easiest method to bleed the brakes, especially if you do it often. It's a simple matter of swapping out the original bleeders and screwing in the SpeedBleeder. And use the "real" SpeedBleeder brand, the Russell bleeders are junk.

You open the SpeedBleeder about 1/4 to 1/2 turn and depress the brake pedal and fluid will flow out. When you release the pedal the small spring-loaded checkball closes off the flow and the pedal returns ready for the next push. After fresh and clean fluid comes out, close the bleeder and move to the next wheel.

The Motive bleeder works well but the trick is to not put fluid into the canister. Just pressurize the tank and use the air pressure to force out old fluid. With either method, you do have to keep an eye on the fluid level in the M/C reservoir so that it doesn't run dry.
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 11:51 AM
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I know that there are other ways to bleed brakes and I have not personally had problems with my brake or clutch bleeds but some people here have.

The question was whether this might work on our Corvettes for those people who do have problems. Would putting a stick on the pedal to hold it down overnight clear the system of air? If so, it might be an easier alternative, especially for the clutch master cylinder bleed.

Just to be clear, it worked on a motorcycle with a closed system (cap screwed down, bleeder closed).
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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From: Irvine Ca
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Sure is a lot of hassle for a 15 minute job if you ask me.

Jack the car up

remove the wheels

replace the pads

RR caliper place a hose over the valve that leads to a catch can/jar, open valve, depress brake pedal, close valve, release pedal. repeat. When all the fluid is clean and all the bubbles are out you are done.

Move to LR, Repeat
Move too RF, repeat
Move to LF repeat.

OK, 20 minutes for the bleeding portion
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