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I am thinking of going from 3.07 to 3.54. According to the build sheet, I have G92 and G44 as my "G" codes. I know that the Dana 36 is weak but I am going to change it out once it breaks. Till, then, I will use it. So, what am I looking at as far as carrier size goes? According to the RPO codes:
G44 - 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio
G92 - Performance Axle Ratio
G92 is a worthless code. It means "Performance Ratio". Unless you know WHAT the standard and performance ratios are for a given car, G92 can mean a lot of different ratios. In your case, with the G44 designates a 3.07. Therefore, for your car, G92 means 3.07. For MY car 3.07 is the standard ratio and G92 designates 3.31 gears. In any case, the 3.07 gears are installed on a "3" series diff case.
I've got the 3.07 gears in my D36 as well. These are actually the recommended gears for the L98.
Yes but I have tweaked the motor and trans a bit. They were out of my 91 Firebird that made 410 RWHP. Would the D36 take that? Word is that it won't Also, my cam is such that it is happy at 3.54 ratio
Yes but I have tweaked the motor and trans a bit. They were out of my 91 Firebird that made 410 RWHP. Would the D36 take that? Word is that it won't Also, my cam is such that it is happy at 3.54 ratio
On the street with street tires sure
On the track with drag radials ??
Nobody can say for sure, Bobmic has 400rwhp and a dana 36 and tracks the **** out of his car so go figure.
Would it be worth it to change to just 3.54 gears from a 3.07 to keep the cam happy? Maybe I should just change the gears and if it breaks, change it totally to a D44? I guess that is one school of thought since I won't be getting jack for my D36
Would it be worth it to change to just 3.54 gears from a 3.07 to keep the cam happy? Maybe I should just change the gears and if it breaks, change it totally to a D44? I guess that is one school of thought since I won't be getting jack for my D36
Well thats fine if you dont mind eating the price of the ring and pinion set you buy for the D36 cause they wont fit the D44 obviously. If you really want 3.54 gears then go for it.
I'm considering this very mod, but I'm debating if it would just be better to buy the D36 from Ikerd's or Corvette Central - it would be an easy, direct swap-out for the existing rear. Gears cost about $300 to $350, and I was quoted around $400 to do the gear change by a local wrench if I pulled the diff and brought it to the guy. So I'm looking at $800 anyway or more for fluid and universal joints and anything else that pops up. I think a rebuilt 3.54 Dana 36 is around $1200 or so.
What do you think?
I'm considering this very mod, but I'm debating if it would just be better to buy the D36 from Ikerd's or Corvette Central - it would be an easy, direct swap-out for the existing rear. Gears cost about $300 to $350, and I was quoted around $400 to do the gear change by a local wrench if I pulled the diff and brought it to the guy. So I'm looking at $800 anyway or more for fluid and universal joints and anything else that pops up. I think a rebuilt 3.54 Dana 36 is around $1200 or so.
What do you think?
This may get pulled but I think Ikerds prices are high. My suggestion would be to watch the C4 Parts For Sale forum and buy a pumpkin from a member with the gears you want.
You should be able to find one for a lot less money, and you can keep your original for a spare when you turn the D36 to dust and start shopping for a D44
I'm considering this very mod, but I'm debating if it would just be better to buy the D36 from Ikerd's or Corvette Central - it would be an easy, direct swap-out for the existing rear. Gears cost about $300 to $350, and I was quoted around $400 to do the gear change by a local wrench if I pulled the diff and brought it to the guy. So I'm looking at $800 anyway or more for fluid and universal joints and anything else that pops up. I think a rebuilt 3.54 Dana 36 is around $1200 or so.
What do you think?
I talked to Tom's Differentials and he said it was about 2000 for a D44 at whatever ration you wanted. Problem with a rebuilt D36 is that you still have a D36 that is the weak link. It won't be stronger than a D44 so the question is how much will it hold. Yes, some may have it work on high HP cars for a long time. My issue is that the general consensus is the D36 is weak.
I talked to Tom's Differentials and he said it was about 2000 for a D44 at whatever ration you wanted. Problem with a rebuilt D36 is that you still have a D36 that is the weak link. It won't be stronger than a D44 so the question is how much will it hold. Yes, some may have it work on high HP cars for a long time. My issue is that the general consensus is the D36 is weak.
I agree with what you say, and that the consensus is that the D36 is weaker. No discussion on that point.
But there is a lot less work and expense just swapping another D36 with the desired ratio than converting from D36 to D44. With the D44 conversion you will need to replace the C-Beam, and change to a different length driveshaft. The D36 should be a clean swap.
it says there is a 3 year waranty. ask him about it.
see just what the waranty covers. if you blow the gears out and he will cover it or replace, then id say good deal.
I like the rebuilt clutch pack in the posi carrier. mine is slipping a little. its only gona get worse.
as for how much power the dana 36 will handle, it is all a matter of traction. if you run slicks and launch real hard, the dana 36 case will actually flex allowing the gear mesh to seperate from ring and pinion, and cause distruction to the gears.
but if you have street type tires on, then they will "spin" instead of hook so hard, and the tires slipping will allow the d36 to live a long happy life with power. its real hard launches that kill em, so if you think your getting close to pulling the front wheels at the strip, id say its time for a 44 or a solid axle