96 vert a4 stock besides cut lid and k&n filter
what would a 2800 stall do for me. how much increase in power and what brand would yall recommend. any other information would be nice thanks

 

ive heard youll notice a difference with that stall, so my sugg. is to get a hold of pete k here on the forum and he should help you out every step of the way, and have it shiped right to your door ready to put on.

 

No increase in power. It is not an engine part. It WILL make a big difference in your "out of the hole" performance, however.

RACE ON!!!

 

This is something I have wondered about but have no experience with, maybe you can clear it up. If you dyno a car with stock converter then with a high stall will it show any different numbers?
The main reason I ask is that the small diameter high stall converter is much lighter than stock, would that increase power output? I understand the advantage to the higher stall is that the engine can build more RPM and thereby apply more torque initially, but I have wondered about the weight reduction factor. Any experience with this or even your thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

You "should" have a little more hp at the rear wheels due to less drive train loss, as your rotating drive train will essentially weigh less. It is power your engine is already making but can now be put to the wheels, sort of like the effect of underdrive pulleys. I have no real life experience with this, but I've been told the high stall small diameter converters heat up the trans fluid alot quicker as they stall more but the system has less fluid due to the smaller diameter. Again, no experience with this, maybe someone else can chime in that can verify so I'll know for sure also. I wonder what stall speed/size converter warrants the use of an external tranny cooler, and how good the cooler built into our radiators are?

 

I too would like an explanation on this. I THINK a 9.5 converter is roughly 15lbs lighter than stock when they are both filled with fluid. Since a torque converter works as a torque multiplier wouldn't a 9.5 torque converter with a torque multiplication factor of 1.7 put more torque to the wheels than a stock unit with a torque multiplication factor of 1.5 ? I THINK you will get a good torque spike at the wheels with the converter. I KNOW it will get your car off the line alot quicker.
Pete K can help you

Mr. CFI EFI an explanation please, I know you KNOW !!!!
RACE ON!!!

 

It will wake it up off the line, I am running a 2800 stall in mine with a set of 3.75s and the difference is NIGHT and DAY. It picked up 8/10ths
with those two mods + drag radials as with the steep gears on street tires it is a tire fryer. 15mph rolling burnouts are fun though

 

"Mr. CFI EFI an explanation please, I know you KNOW !!!!
RACE ON!!!"


Agree John, that's why I asked "the" authority

I would be nice to get the opinion of some of the forums supporting tuners on this one too, someone has to have done some pulls before and after.
We know the converter makes the desired improvement, but is there more to it than the raised launch RPM.....?

 

I agree completely, I know what it did for MY car but I would like to know the why. I THINK it will create a torque spike but I too will have to wait. Nice seeing you on here again. I will be in Florida Nov. 12th for business b.t.w. Tampa Bay area.

 

Let's see here. The torque converter does multiply torque, but it does it by reducing the output rpms. It is like comparing a chassis dyno read out made in first gear with a manual, vs one made in 4th gear. There is a difference between MULTIPLYING torque and MAKING torque. I think, but don't for a fact know, that most dynos don't read as low as the rpms at which the torque multiplying takes place.

Besides multiplying torque, the main claim to fame of a stall speed converter is to get the engine rpms up into the power band more quickly than gear ratio and car movement, alone, would otherwise allow. It is like slipping the clutch of a manual, off the line for the same reason. Not all stall speeds are smaller than stock, but a lighter converter could theoretically show up as slightly more power, at the wheels because the engine could rev slightly faster. I don't know if this would show up on a dyno or not. It is likely within the margin of error for the dyno. On the other hand, as the converter slips to achieve the higher rpms, it generates heat which is energy that could otherwise go to the rear wheels.

In the end, I honestly, for a fact, don't know. I believe any power gain at the rear wheels through weight reduction and torque multiplication ratios are minimal and likely immeasurable. Better torque multiplication will give you a better initial "hit" off the line, but the effects of the greater ratio are short lived. The true value of the stall converter is getting the engine rpms up into the power band sooner.

RACE ON!!!

 

alright so is 2800 good or should i go higher or lower? what brand would yall recommend?

 

A 2800 stall is a good choice, I would strongly suggest you do gears at the same time as you will have the exhaust off and the c-beam anyways. There will never be an easier time to do it and those two mods work very well together, so well you will need some stickier tires.
I will send you a pm about my converter.

 

The 2800 converter and lower gears work great for the LT1 as JD says. He is also right about doing them at the same time if possible, taking the trans out is a snap with the exhaust and support beam out of the way. Please accept my apology for hijacking your thread and taking it off track.