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one more process of elimination that wont cost you anything but time...disconnect the fuel rails and lift the injectors out of the intake but leave them connected to the fuel rail. then prime the fuel pump without starting and a fuel pressure guage attached. look for any leaking injectors. new rubber o rings for the injectors is a good idea at this time and only cost about $5 for all eight..
if your vehicle will not hold fuel pressure then it will be impossible for you to test each injector for a lean or rich condition..
one more process of elimination that wont cost you anything but time...disconnect the fuel rails and lift the injectors out of the intake but leave them connected to the fuel rail. then prime the fuel pump without starting and a fuel pressure guage attached. look for any leaking injectors. new rubber o rings for the injectors is a good idea at this time and only cost about $5 for all eight..
if your vehicle will not hold fuel pressure then it will be impossible for you to test each injector for a lean or rich condition..
I spoke to Dave at Dave's Total Performance in Cinci. yesterday (he tuned the car with LT1 Edit, and he stated that it is very common for fuel systems with aftermarket fuel pumps (mine has a Walbro) to lose pressure immediately. I know my Aeromotive System on my 91 Vette loses pressure instantly upon turning off the ignition. If I had to guess, I think I either got a bad new opti, have a bad wire somewhere, or a bad ignition module. the ECM is not throwing any codes whatsoever...which is crazy because my car has no egr, cats, etc. Thanks for the tip!
I spoke to Dave at Dave's Total Performance in Cinci. yesterday (he tuned the car with LT1 Edit, and he stated that it is very common for fuel systems with aftermarket fuel pumps (mine has a Walbro) to lose pressure immediately. I know my Aeromotive System on my 91 Vette loses pressure instantly upon turning off the ignition. If I had to guess, I think I either got a bad new opti, have a bad wire somewhere, or a bad ignition module. the ECM is not throwing any codes whatsoever...which is crazy because my car has no egr, cats, etc. Thanks for the tip!
no codes probably because he tuned it for no EGR or cats
no codes probably because he tuned it for no EGR or cats
I didn't even know you could do that. I'm about two seconds away from buying a standalone Fast box and throw that opti in the trash and just use the HEI dist that's already in the motor.
the dist you bought from ebay is not an ac -delco,its as cheap as they come. some work and some dont,including the cheap cap and rotor they use.i bought one and sent it back right away for a refund.its false advertisement and i told them so,they did refund my money right away.
did not even argue the fact that it was not an ac -delco
the dist you bought from ebay is not an ac -delco,its as cheap as they come. some work and some dont,including the cheap cap and rotor they use.i bought one and sent it back right away for a refund.its false advertisement and i told them so,they did refund my money right away.
did not even argue the fact that it was not an ac -delco
Are you sure? That seemed like too good of a deal to be true. But I'll tell you, it looked EXACTLY like the one I took off of it..... TO me, if someone were to present my car to me to work on, I would without hesitation tell them it is the opti... Here is the one I bought. Yes, I'd say if it's not an AC Delco then it's definately false advertising. I did speak with the owner today and he said that if it's not throwing a code 36 then it's not the opti... not sure about that one..... Here is the exact one I bought...
37 psi is too low. It should be 43.5psi with the engine running and the reference line disconnected.
There should definitly be a reference line on the fuel ressure regulator.
If your using the HEI to pass voltage and the opti to decode crank position, you must make sure that there is proper rotor phasing, I e the spark is jumping 90deg to the proper terminal.
Hey guys, I actually fixed the problem. I had removed the rotor from the new opti since I have a conventional rear dist. that actually handles the spark distribution. I didn't realize that by taking the two small screws out that hold the rotor in place that I was also in effect releasing the perforated disc that signals the opti, thereby letting it slide around within the opti case. I figured this out by taking the old opti apart. They had simply filed down the rotor into a simple button to do the hold down duty.
I've have always noticed that my car ALWAYS smelled like gas, PIG rich. I noticed that the fuel regulator did not have a vacuum hose on it... not sure why, but it didn't. So, I put one on...
In the fray of all of this I also bought a Actron scanner from Autozone which allowed me to see my sensors. Sure enough, the IAT displayed -40f. I fixed the short in the wire and the car runs great now!!! No more black clouds behind me when I stand on it, no more gas smell in the passenger compartment.
One more thing, I noticed that the male plug that inserts into the opti had two of its female receptor pins pushed back up into the plastic male portion. If they made connection to the opti connections, it wasn't a very good or consistent conection. So, before you go replacing your opti, take a look at those pins!! My opti seal between my timing chain cover and the opti was leaking oil pretty bad, so I had to remove the opti to fix the two seals, so I just figured I'd put a new one one, besides, I think mine was toast...
BTW, this was for for my 1996 TA, not my Vette...thankfully.
Last edited by TONYDEE64; Oct 27, 2007 at 10:19 PM.
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