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Big race next week. Normally tech is fairly easy on everyone but I know they're gonna be picky for this event. So, what driveshaft loop are you guys using? Anything special I need to watch out for? Thanks.
NHRA requires a drive shaft loop for cars running 13.99 or quicker. 13.00 or quicker on street tires. I'm not there, yet. I am interested in any responses you get, because I can't imagine a "universal" model as being easily adapted to our cars. Good luck at the races.
I can't imagine a "universal" model as being easily adapted to our cars
That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm sure Mackey and Panuzzo have one in theirs, I just dunno which one and what needed to be modified.
Thanks again,
Mike Renfro
Honolulu, Hawaii
From: Former NCM Drag Racing coordinator, National director Corvette Challenge Spring Hill, Tennessee: Whiting, New Jersey
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Drag Racers...Driveshaft Loop? (MJ)
I can't imagine a "universal" model as being easily adapted to our cars
That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm sure Mackey and Panuzzo have one in theirs, I just dunno which one and what needed to be modified.
Thanks again,
Mike Renfro
Honolulu, Hawaii
i believe NHRA calls for them on any non straight axle car but when i went nobody checked-- just looked for all the bottles, lugnuts etc, said nice car and i went away
I welded a piece of aluminum to close up the "U" support from the rear to the tranny... ablout 10" from the rear of the tranny.
I've broken a driveshaft at 140 mph and it was ugly.
When you run slicks, you have to have a driveshaft loop too. They checked for my driveshaft loop when they saw my slicks in the back seat of my camaro.
I made one by bending a piece of 2 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick steel into a U shape that will fit over the stock C channel torque arm. In essence boxing the drive shaft in. I removed the drive shaft to drill holes on the stock C channel and bolted them in together. Neat and Clean, Passes NHRA rules, and you don't have drill through your floor or pull up the carpet.
I went the "C" channel route use carrage bolts "smooth rounded heads" so you have as much clearence as possible The "C" channel route is also the lightest way to go.
I've got a Lakewood for personal use, I don't think my car needs it, and I'm certainly not going to be breaking 12.99 or better, unless I get it tuned better...
Anyways, mine wouldn't pass an inspection, I only used one piece of the four piece $27 unit. I bolted it to the stock ladder bar.
I did go 6-8 inches as per NHRA spec, but its not bolted on on top, so it wouldn't pass an ispection, but it would stop the drive-shaft from hitting me in the butt. :)