Great write up, tackled my passenger side light today which has been acting up for a while. Then my driver side started acting up last night so I will order more dowels and tackle that one. Words of advice to all:

I did not remove the entire headlight assembly. Just the motor and of course to get all the screws out, the headlamp bezel has to come off as well. The string trick is a must to get the motor back together, worked great.

Don't buy the bronze gear. It is quite expensive and so far I see absolutely nothing wrong with the original gear. Just buy the dowels, but buy both sides, because although one side still may be ok, that side isn't far behind. Just like those dern window gluides, but thats a whole other post.

 

84 headlight motor removal- 10mm bolts and 1/2 inch nut.

 

This sticky is worth a million, replaced both bushings in about
1 1/2 hrs... nothing like taking care of business yourself...
now if i can just get the missing out i'll be set...

 

Too funny of a coincidence - I saw this thread AFTER I finished doing this project myself just this last weekend (which raises some questions - see below).

FYI - I used bent paperclips to hold the brushes on the passenger motor. I carefully opened up the gears over a trashcan so all the particles went there w/o getting on everything. I did NOT remove the bezel - I just loosened the motor bracket from the headlight bracket and half opened the light manually to expose the last torx fastener on the motor.

Question1: What exactly changed or 'improved' in 88? (88-96) Since the nylon gears were retained along with plastic lens headlights - how good do the redesigned gears hold up w/ heavier replacement glass headlights?

Question2: What other materials can be substituted for nylon 'pins' (or whatever these are called). I 'think' these are intentionally designed to be a weak point w/ the motor pushing back and forth against these pins - if the pins go it is better than the entire 'gear' being stripped on the inside...? E.g. they absorb 'shock' and act as a 'weak link' between the weight of the lights and the pushing/pulling them...? I like the idea of hardwood but hardwood could also 'split'? Aluminum is another possibility...? Others...?

Question3: Why does my 1984 Firebirds light motors/gears outlast these? The YBody headlight design was released 2 years LATER and then REDESIGNED a 2nd time several years LATER. Yet my '84 Firebird headlights have worked flawless (knock on wood) since new for almost 25 years and 200k miles and easily bust through heavy ice buildup at that. E.g. why did they seem to get it right in '82 but not '84 or '88? (or is my Firebird an anomaly... )

Great thread

 

Just repaired my lights today and found this posting when I came in from the cold It wasn't all that hard to do and took about an hour to do. Now I can drive at night once again .

 

ok...decided to do mine today. Got everything right...I thought. but now, the motor on the passenger side doesn't run.

I took the motor housing apart, and I think thats where I messed up. :o Help...?

 

Did you get the brushes back in their slots? The motor bushes can be held in place with two paper clips.

 

with the suggestion in the above post. However, before you remove the unit from the hood, recheck to make sure the electrical connection (you had to open this in order to remove the moror unit from the hood) supplying power to the motor is fully seated.

 

it is fully seated, and I put the brushes in there....maybe I need to rig a way to have them stick???

Also....it only turns half way manually.

Why couldn't my '85 just have '85 style motors???

 

cwyates4: In order to get help on your problem, we need more information. Here are some questions for you:

1. What problems were you having with the hood lights prior to your recent repair?
2. Did both door motors raise and lower the assemblies prior to your repair?
3. What exactly do you mean when you state "Also....it only turns half way manually"?
4. What did you find inside the gear assemblies when you made the recent repair?
5. Where did you get the bushings you used for the repair?

SAM

 

1. drivers side runs longer than it should, but no real problem. Pass. side sticks on occasion and clicks.

2. they generally worked 9 out of 10 times.

3. Since "repairing" the pass. side, it only opens half way...even manually. I believe I installed the motor 180 off.

4. The bushing were dust; gear was fine but replaced anyways.

5. zip products, and I can only get one to go in and fit. Trying to install all three bushings make it not fit.

Summary: I believe I can get it to work manually, should just have to roll the pin 180, but...It has no power now....must be an internal problem, but everything looks correct.

 

Thanks for the GREAT write ups.

The only thing I have not been able to figure out is the "Washer" locations.

I know 3 of them go in first before putting the gear back together, but after I took it apart I had two simm type washers and another small washer sitting on the work bench.

I did not completely remove the motor and I just loosened the screws to get the cover off. I thought they might of come from where the shaft and roll pin connect.

I have read several write ups but I have not seen any info on the washer locations.

Any help would be appreciated

1989 Corvette

 

The thin shim washers serve two purposes:
1. There should be at lease one washer on each side of the plastic gear. These washers serve as "transitions" between moving and stationary parts to reduce wear on the plastic gear where it touches the metal housing.
2. The washers are also used to control the free axial end play of the plastic gear assembly withing the metal housing. After you assemble the motor unit, you should grab the end of the shaft that protrudes from the unit and attempt to move the shaft within the housing. The shaft should easisy move back and forth somewhere in the .010 to .020 inch range. If you cannot feel this movement, the length of the plastic dowels are too long and the gear is in a binding condition. What does this condition do the the unit? The motor is turned on and off by a current sensor in the relay. A binding shaft causes the motor to draw more current and this may impact when the motor is turned on and off. A small binding condition may not impact the function of the motor.

Sorry to be so long with this answer. I spent 35 years in the electric motor industry working on such problems.

Merry Christmas, SAM

 

Thanks for the quick response.

I understand the use of the shims I just can't figure out where they go. I know three of the 3/4 inch ones go in the assembly and then the shaft and gear. Do the other two 3/4 ones go on the other end of the shaft and then the cover? There also is one smaller and thinner one 1/2 inch

Thanks again

 

Well doesn't this just suck! One of the headlights was only going up about 2/3 of the way, so I ASSUMED the bushings were gone since the Vette has 97K miles on it. I took the motor apart only to find that the bushings look as good as the new ones I was ready to put in! Any thoughts on what else could be causing the problem?

 

We did the wooden dowel trick on my ZR1 today. Thanks for the write up.

Funny thing. One gear case cover was a solid build so the motor had to be disassembled to get the gear out and the other was the type like in the photos here, where you could remove the gear without removing the motor assembly. We did the fix and the lights now work but go up and down separately and are not in sync. They each now have a mind of their own. But all i care is they both work.

 

I used your link today to fix my headlights. They are so quiet now...I feel like I can "sneak-in" again!
Excellent direction with no "surprises"
People like you are what makes this such a good forum.
Thank you for the post!!!!

 

I tried to find these at Home Depot in the specialty hardware area,but could not find. Is there a SKU number?
Thanks,
Harry

 

Hello,
a couple months ago I was able to see the pictures on this thread. I am currently in the process of replacing the gear in my headlight motor and the pictures are gone....

Not sure if someone can get the pictures back up...? Much appreciation, thanks.

JB90vette

 

You are getting the dreaded "red X"?