headlight repair w/pic...
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 11,628
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From: Sherwood, Arkansas
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Albany NY
Opened up my 85's passenger side today, and this is what i see
pic 1
Pic 2
wondering if the black all over the manual adjustment **** side means the motors toast...
both the gears look fine, there's some corrosion on the bottom side of the motor casing also.
i was hesitant to even open the motors up since it didn't seem like the teeth were skipping since i could manualy raise and lower the lights myself w/ little/no slippage. and when they worked (both sides are now dead) the passenger side would go up but not back down if i remember correctly. i also don't remember any noise comming from either motor when the switch was turned on... any idea's are welcome excellent post.
pic 1
Pic 2
wondering if the black all over the manual adjustment **** side means the motors toast...
both the gears look fine, there's some corrosion on the bottom side of the motor casing also.
i was hesitant to even open the motors up since it didn't seem like the teeth were skipping since i could manualy raise and lower the lights myself w/ little/no slippage. and when they worked (both sides are now dead) the passenger side would go up but not back down if i remember correctly. i also don't remember any noise comming from either motor when the switch was turned on... any idea's are welcome excellent post.
Advanced
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 1
From: LA California
Headlight Gel
The description for the Eckler Corvette Headlight Repair Kit Item# 29304 reads as follows:
Inside the 1988-96 headlight motors is a gear which turns the lights. From the factory, the inside of the gear is packed with a special hard gel that turns the gear. As time passes, the gel deteriorates and no longer has the strength to turn the gear so it free wheels. Our headlight repair kit, consisting of 3 specially made Delrin bushings, replaces the gel and makes motors operate like new. One kit repairs one motor. http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=29304&dept_id=1476
When C4 owners who repair their headlights open up the gear cover, they see a granulated, powdery substance like this:
http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/head14.jpg
or this
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/february/c4lights/light8.asp
This is what they look like when they are in relatively good condition: http://wagtail.home.att.net/extras/gel.jpg after 19 years in my ’90. Note that they have an elliptical shape with a flat spot on one side (which I colored in black. They measure .450 high, .507 across the wide part, and .452 across the flat part. IMHO I would not characterize their composition as gel.
Because most of the pictures in the headlight sticky have been pulled, you may want to refer to this site for pictures. The procedure worked like a champ for the driver’s side headlight on my ’90: http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/headlight.html. Note that the gear in the passenger side motor comes apart differently. On this side I had to insert a 5/32” drill through the hole and pull like hell to get it apart, similar to this: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/february/c4lights/light8.asp.
Inside the 1988-96 headlight motors is a gear which turns the lights. From the factory, the inside of the gear is packed with a special hard gel that turns the gear. As time passes, the gel deteriorates and no longer has the strength to turn the gear so it free wheels. Our headlight repair kit, consisting of 3 specially made Delrin bushings, replaces the gel and makes motors operate like new. One kit repairs one motor. http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=29304&dept_id=1476
When C4 owners who repair their headlights open up the gear cover, they see a granulated, powdery substance like this:
http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/head14.jpg
or this
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/february/c4lights/light8.asp
This is what they look like when they are in relatively good condition: http://wagtail.home.att.net/extras/gel.jpg after 19 years in my ’90. Note that they have an elliptical shape with a flat spot on one side (which I colored in black. They measure .450 high, .507 across the wide part, and .452 across the flat part. IMHO I would not characterize their composition as gel.
Because most of the pictures in the headlight sticky have been pulled, you may want to refer to this site for pictures. The procedure worked like a champ for the driver’s side headlight on my ’90: http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/headlight.html. Note that the gear in the passenger side motor comes apart differently. On this side I had to insert a 5/32” drill through the hole and pull like hell to get it apart, similar to this: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/february/c4lights/light8.asp.
Last edited by chevylu; May 4, 2009 at 05:50 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Sulphur KY
just did my passenger side light this weekend and was a pretty easy fix hardest part was taking the gear out. Didn't notice this post until afterwards but found this one and followed it and it worked like a charm.
http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/33098/index.html
http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/33098/index.html
Last edited by cdreece; May 22, 2009 at 07:20 AM.
Advanced
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 1
From: LA California
Wood Dowel Update
Take a look at this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1569918088:
"At this point in time, I do not recommend anyone use wood as a material for bushings. I removed that gear assembly where I had installed the popular wood dowels and the wood had distorted in shape and was not properly driving the metal gear."
.
Take a look at this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1569918088:
"At this point in time, I do not recommend anyone use wood as a material for bushings. I removed that gear assembly where I had installed the popular wood dowels and the wood had distorted in shape and was not properly driving the metal gear."
.
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Verdad Gallardo
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
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From: Irvine Ca
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 583
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From: USA
on my '91, when I used a punch to remove the roll pin, it broke into two pieces. I notice that it's stainless, so not something readily available from the local hardware store, and kinda reluctant to put a regular (rustable) steel roll pin into a location exposed to weather. for now, I used a VERY tight-fit SS cotter pin. as long as it doesn't rotate, it should be okay. there's not a lot of the cotter pin sticking out the other end.
in hindsight, I probably shoulda prepped the roll pin with a squirt of "Liquid Wrench" and a couple of light taps.
I sure do hope that the replacement "delrin" bushings I installed are more durable than whatever mystery material it was that GM used in 1991. The original nylon gear was in terrific shape, other than being completely encased with the disintegration dust.
The replacement solid delrin bushings were VERY tight, I had to use a vise to assemble the two gear assy pieces together. I guess tighter is better. packed with synthetic grease, very liberally. maybe I should've used white grease instead?
I was able to remove that one spring steel wiring clip with a very long nose pliers, pretty easily. Also, there is that one Torx T-30 screw hidden behind the motor linkage that required some creativity and manual dexterity, motor skills both to get it out, and to get it back in. The linkage block on the gear output shaft blocks the straight-in direct access to that screw.
I did have a heck of a time getting the gray and green wires back into the wiring channels on the headlight frame, they came out real easily, but those wires sure didn't want to go back in, dunno why.
I found a jewelers screwdriver to be better for removing the two electrical pins from the socket than a paperclip.
This was the drivers' side, not knowing any better, once the "clak clak clak" sound was now silenced (I had only ordered 1 set of bushings), and today discovered the passenger side is also due (motor still whizzing after closed), duh!
edit----------------------------
GM roll pin is 5/32" x 7/8". was able to get some 5/32" x 1" SS roll pins from Brownells, unfortunately in a pack of 36, but only $13. when I did the passenger side headlight (bushings also turned to dust), factory original roll pin also had hairline fracture but still intact. replaced it with a 1" Brownells roll pin, works pretty good, about 1/16" sticking out each end. Went back and pulled cotter pin from driver's side and replaced with roll pin, didn't even need to remove headlight motor for that. now everything is hunky dory.
note: only the passenger side needs the two motor screws loosened (1/4" hex) to provide add'l clearance to pull out the nylon gear per the 2002 Corvette Magazine article. the drivers side doesn't. reason: need extra play in motor worm drive gear to pull out the nylon gear past the teeth and nylon gear edge ridge. left and right side are not symmetrical.
in hindsight, I probably shoulda prepped the roll pin with a squirt of "Liquid Wrench" and a couple of light taps.
I sure do hope that the replacement "delrin" bushings I installed are more durable than whatever mystery material it was that GM used in 1991. The original nylon gear was in terrific shape, other than being completely encased with the disintegration dust.
The replacement solid delrin bushings were VERY tight, I had to use a vise to assemble the two gear assy pieces together. I guess tighter is better. packed with synthetic grease, very liberally. maybe I should've used white grease instead?
I was able to remove that one spring steel wiring clip with a very long nose pliers, pretty easily. Also, there is that one Torx T-30 screw hidden behind the motor linkage that required some creativity and manual dexterity, motor skills both to get it out, and to get it back in. The linkage block on the gear output shaft blocks the straight-in direct access to that screw.
I did have a heck of a time getting the gray and green wires back into the wiring channels on the headlight frame, they came out real easily, but those wires sure didn't want to go back in, dunno why.
I found a jewelers screwdriver to be better for removing the two electrical pins from the socket than a paperclip.
This was the drivers' side, not knowing any better, once the "clak clak clak" sound was now silenced (I had only ordered 1 set of bushings), and today discovered the passenger side is also due (motor still whizzing after closed), duh!
edit----------------------------
GM roll pin is 5/32" x 7/8". was able to get some 5/32" x 1" SS roll pins from Brownells, unfortunately in a pack of 36, but only $13. when I did the passenger side headlight (bushings also turned to dust), factory original roll pin also had hairline fracture but still intact. replaced it with a 1" Brownells roll pin, works pretty good, about 1/16" sticking out each end. Went back and pulled cotter pin from driver's side and replaced with roll pin, didn't even need to remove headlight motor for that. now everything is hunky dory.
note: only the passenger side needs the two motor screws loosened (1/4" hex) to provide add'l clearance to pull out the nylon gear per the 2002 Corvette Magazine article. the drivers side doesn't. reason: need extra play in motor worm drive gear to pull out the nylon gear past the teeth and nylon gear edge ridge. left and right side are not symmetrical.
Last edited by rpoL98; Jul 8, 2009 at 05:20 AM.
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Tx
I just finished replacing the driver side headlight motor bushings on my 96, and it works great. Thanks to all of your postings, it made my job easy.
Thank You!!!
Thank You!!!
Last edited by swainma; Jul 11, 2009 at 01:28 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Binghamton New York
headlites
I made this a "sticky" for now....do we have a C4 DIY section???? Do you want tio start one like the thread I have in C5 Tech??
EDIT: Thanks GIJoe, pmihaltian, Qack, dpsantoli, for the edit tips. Thanks jhammonds01 for the years application (88 - 96?).
Remove the entire assembly (motor separation next post, although pictured here):
Have ready a towel to put down the assembly!
Disconnect headlight power supply.
First remove the screws at the lower assembly - with yellow circle.
Then remove nuts numbered '1' - at both sides of headlight assembly.
Then loosen, BUT DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE, the '2' numbered nuts.
Get your free hand onto the headlight assembly, and apply pressure to keep the assembly in place. I had a boo-boo here (post 6)!!!
Then remove the two remaining nuts #2.
CAREFULLY, pull away the assembly.
EDIT: Thanks GIJoe, pmihaltian, Qack, dpsantoli, for the edit tips. Thanks jhammonds01 for the years application (88 - 96?).
Remove the entire assembly (motor separation next post, although pictured here):
Have ready a towel to put down the assembly!
Disconnect headlight power supply.
First remove the screws at the lower assembly - with yellow circle.
Then remove nuts numbered '1' - at both sides of headlight assembly.
Then loosen, BUT DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE, the '2' numbered nuts.
Get your free hand onto the headlight assembly, and apply pressure to keep the assembly in place. I had a boo-boo here (post 6)!!!
Then remove the two remaining nuts #2.
CAREFULLY, pull away the assembly.
I was reading your repair what year on you doing this repair
I have a 1989 does this repair apply
Thanks
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Binghamton New York
headlites
The description for the Eckler Corvette Headlight Repair Kit Item# 29304 reads as follows:
Inside the 1988-96 headlight motors is a gear which turns the lights. From the factory, the inside of the gear is packed with a special hard gel that turns the gear. As time passes, the gel deteriorates and no longer has the strength to turn the gear so it free wheels. Our headlight repair kit, consisting of 3 specially made Delrin bushings, replaces the gel and makes motors operate like new. One kit repairs one motor. http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=29304&dept_id=1476
When C4 owners who repair their headlights open up the gear cover, they see a granulated, powdery substance like this:
http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/head14.jpg
or this
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/february/c4lights/light8.asp
This is what they look like when they are in relatively good condition: http://wagtail.home.att.net/extras/gel.jpg after 19 years in my ’90. Note that they have an elliptical shape with a flat spot on one side (which I colored in black. They measure .450 high, .507 across the wide part, and .452 across the flat part. IMHO I would not characterize their composition as gel.
Because most of the pictures in the headlight sticky have been pulled, you may want to refer to this site for pictures. The procedure worked like a champ for the driver’s side headlight on my ’90: http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/headlight.html. Note that the gear in the passenger side motor comes apart differently. On this side I had to insert a 5/32” drill through the hole and pull like hell to get it apart, similar to this: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/february/c4lights/light8.asp.
Inside the 1988-96 headlight motors is a gear which turns the lights. From the factory, the inside of the gear is packed with a special hard gel that turns the gear. As time passes, the gel deteriorates and no longer has the strength to turn the gear so it free wheels. Our headlight repair kit, consisting of 3 specially made Delrin bushings, replaces the gel and makes motors operate like new. One kit repairs one motor. http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=29304&dept_id=1476
When C4 owners who repair their headlights open up the gear cover, they see a granulated, powdery substance like this:
http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/head14.jpg
or this
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/february/c4lights/light8.asp
This is what they look like when they are in relatively good condition: http://wagtail.home.att.net/extras/gel.jpg after 19 years in my ’90. Note that they have an elliptical shape with a flat spot on one side (which I colored in black. They measure .450 high, .507 across the wide part, and .452 across the flat part. IMHO I would not characterize their composition as gel.
Because most of the pictures in the headlight sticky have been pulled, you may want to refer to this site for pictures. The procedure worked like a champ for the driver’s side headlight on my ’90: http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/headlight.html. Note that the gear in the passenger side motor comes apart differently. On this side I had to insert a 5/32” drill through the hole and pull like hell to get it apart, similar to this: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/february/c4lights/light8.asp.
Thanks
Evil1knevel
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 155
Likes: 1
From: Melbourne Florida
Corvette85Guy,
Did you happen to get a picture or note where the microswitch toggle goes. I replaced white gear and when I was cleaning up assembly prior to re-assembly and lubrication the motor lifted out and the microswitch activator (a flat bar at the spring/ clutch area) moved from where it was as now the headlight won't turn off after it gets to open or closed position. It could also be my microswitches are dirty from the cleaning. I didn't find this out until it was back in car. My time is really limited on when I can work on it so if you have any information before I pull it out again I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Woody
Did you happen to get a picture or note where the microswitch toggle goes. I replaced white gear and when I was cleaning up assembly prior to re-assembly and lubrication the motor lifted out and the microswitch activator (a flat bar at the spring/ clutch area) moved from where it was as now the headlight won't turn off after it gets to open or closed position. It could also be my microswitches are dirty from the cleaning. I didn't find this out until it was back in car. My time is really limited on when I can work on it so if you have any information before I pull it out again I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Woody
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: CA
[QUOTE=schrade;1562483015]removal of motor from assembly:
loosen bolt 4, second pic
loosen bolt 2, first pic (ALSO GOOD PIC OF THIS BOLT ( in red circle) IN PIC 3) ......
When I look at this thread I don't see any of the photos, just a small box with a red "X" in it. Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks
Tony
89 Coupe
loosen bolt 4, second pic
loosen bolt 2, first pic (ALSO GOOD PIC OF THIS BOLT ( in red circle) IN PIC 3) ......
When I look at this thread I don't see any of the photos, just a small box with a red "X" in it. Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks
Tony
89 Coupe
Roadster Madness. 😠
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,292
Likes: 2,362
From: Ventura Co Ca
SoCal Regional Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor '13, '20-'21
Mid-America has a brass gear instead of a nylon gear. Since I do not plan on selling this car again, I am wondering if this would work out better in the long run. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of the brass vs. nylon gear longevity or problems?
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 583
Likes: 61
From: USA
when I took apart the gear box from my '91 (18 years old), the factory nylon gears showed no wear on either side. it was just those three inside nylon bushings that had turned to dust.
I had bought one of the brass gears before starting the job "just in case", but ended up not using it at all.
I would suspect that's the case for most of those brass gear sales.
I had bought one of the brass gears before starting the job "just in case", but ended up not using it at all.
I would suspect that's the case for most of those brass gear sales.
Roadster Madness. 😠
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,292
Likes: 2,362
From: Ventura Co Ca
SoCal Regional Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor '13, '20-'21
Thanks, rpoL98. My right headlight goes up and down fine. It just ratchets when it goes down or up. Is this caused by the three inside nylon bushings?