ok so bought a 94 for 4300

LT1 and automatic

heres the list:

1. it doesn't turn off(turn key off and take out still running) had to pull an ECM connector to get it to shut off

2. seems to have a charging problem as it has shut off by itself twice while running(yet i cant turn it off with the key)

3. transmission(automatic) seems to be set to one gear and wont really change even when put into 1 or 2

4. brakes blow on this car

5. fuel gauge is stuck at half and doesn't move

6. has the intermittent a/c on/off problem too

7. already fixed # 7-10 NVM

now given the fact that I'm extremely mechanically inclined all i need is help diagnosing the problems

really want to figure it out and get it moving again

or if there was anyone in the Miami area willing to help that would be awesome

 

someone anyone ideas

i work on cars but i am unfamiliar with the intricacies of the vette

ok #5 and #6 are finished and workin

and ill be working on #4 tomorrow so really i just need help on #'s 1, 2 & 3

 

Sounds like you may have an ignition switch problem for 1 & 2, the 94 A4 trans has electronic governor so it may be part of the same issue. If you don't already have one, getting a Factory Service Manual is the best suggestion I can make, good luck.

 

alright so i was tinkering and checking and evaluating and i said to myself "self what did you change"

i then remembered that the first thing i did was check and replace all fuses

ok so i found out why the transmission wont shift gears and why the car wouldn't turn off when the key was removed

it was the fuel pump fuse (FP1) it was popped when we got the car and when i replaced it the car wouldn't turn off anymore so i just removed the fuel pump fuse all together and the car runs fine

so i now have no fuse in the FP1 & FP2(no contacts anyway) spots in the passenger side glove box fuse location

now i have no idea how this affected the transmission or if it even was the cause but i know that it now shifts perfectly

#4 is still on the board (really sucky brakes) recommend a brake pad????

and im awaiting the A,B and removable top sides weatherstripping as it was all cracked

went to fix the fuel gauge and it turns out that the float wasnt even attached to the fuel sender arm it was just floating around in the tank



oh and does anyone have any idea why my fuel pump fuse caused all this mayhem?????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

 

Comparable analogy...

GM S platforms - Blazer, Jimmy, Bravada, S-10, 15, Sonoma, have a defective ignition solenoid for '94 - '01. Multiple TSB's...

Circuit 1020 in those vehicles loses power connection, and trips half a dozen totally different codes. Nothing that will strand you, motor will crank, and keep running.

Real damage is to your wallet, when you employ the Fully Automatic Assault Wallet repair technique - spray a ton of new parts at the problem(s), and hope to get lucky. NOT!!! NEVER WORKS. NEVER. EVER. Forever and ever. AMEN.

DON'T BUY PARTS BLINDLY. AND I HAVE STOCK IN AFTERMARKET PARTS RETAILERS INDEX FUNDS

HOWEVER, on that same circuit is the 4L60e control module (same as vette). Failure of the circuit (not module) will trigger tranny limp-home mode. Tranny fluid pressure goes way up to accomodate, and tranny stays in 3rd gear (one gear). Don't reset this, and your tranny will soon detonate.



Just because of the ignition switch solenoid - NOT THE SWITCH ITSELF.

 

I shutter just to read your post.

First off the 94 has a PCM not a ECM, and it is a bad idea to disconnect to shut it down, costly to repair. Pull the coil wire if you have to kill it. The shock to you will not be as bad as to your wallet.

I agree with the defective ignition switch or linkage. That switch controls more than you think. First things first.

You will find out the brakes are bad which is characteristic for the 94s. The J55 big brakes do help as were standard on the 96 years. Lots of posts on crappy brakes on the Forum, you can read about it for a week.

Just don’t understand your fuel pump comment. The pump has to run for the engine to run……..period. The fuel pump runs for 2 seconds by the fuel pump relay when ignition switch is first turned on. Then a oil pressure switch closes when pressure comes up to keep the fuel pump running. But I have no idea what could be happening if the ignition switch is not performing at 100%.

You like to work on cars, get the Helms factory service manual, you will need it and is the only way to go.


Charge on

 

just an update sorta

as for that fuel pump relay im not sure how but im sure its not even connected somehow and the pump is hotwired in somewhere.

When i put the key in the ignition the pump does turn on immediately but not for just 2 seconds it stays on.

After 5 mins of waiting for it to stop it didnt so i imagine somone replaced the fuel pump at some point and just hotwired it to a 12v ignition on source for one reason or another

now my problem is that when i drive it it only goes a short distance stumbles a sec and dies.

turn key off
turn key on
try to start
spin spin spin spin spin spin
cranks doesnt start
you can do it till the battery dies if you like
i did
new battery now JIC

after about 5 hours without a battery in the car i put the new battery in and start the car

starts perfect kicks over and hums like a champ

go for a drive

2 miles down the road stumble stumble dead

some how i magic voodooed it to start after going home getting another car and driving out with my tools and disconnecting the PCM and the battery for about 5-10 minutes

while i sat outside and had a smoke and looked at the clouds to calm down a bit
reconnected both PCM and BATT
shake my medicine stick at it and vroom

I drive it home and as im about to pull in the garage it stumbles and dies again

now i think ive noticed a coolant leak from somewhere and i think its from the bottom of the waterpump so i have to ask do you think my lovely opti is taking a **** from the water

oh and does the vette LT1 waterpump have a weep hole of some sort on the underside?

im thinking of going on a wallet explosion and throwing new parts at it for a minute just because it needs em anyway

waterpump
thermostat 160*
MSD cap and rotor <~opinions?
serpentine belt
wires
plugs
fuel filter
fuel sock for pump
tranny drain flush and filter
oil and filter of course

oh and i had to do the thermostat bypass as one of the hoses popped the other day

capped the T on the passenger side and replaced the driver side radiator pipe with one from discount auto that i went to the back and picked out since it had the right bends and snaked around everything just right


hmmmm so ya its outside

not running

ideas?

 

um no

i have em

and ive been working on it thank you very much

where the hell did you think all that info i just posted came from?

btw thanx for assuming

o and did you read my post there were a few questions in there

do you simply not know the answer?

any HELP would be appreciated

 

Are you loosing fuel pressure when it dies?

 

That was helpful dude. You need to learn the Thumper rule. (If you don't have anything nice to say.....)

 

Let's calm it down and stay on topic or I'll lock up the thread.

 

TopTech...for an auto tech (as listed in your profile)you would think you could have just posted an answer to his question like you have done with so many others on here ( I reviewed your post history, I even ignored all your references to non supporting vendors)...why the smart replies with this guy?

 

My apology for the previous posts and a thank you to those who pointed it out to me, no excuse except for poor judgment.

The diagnostic process is not magic, but rather systematic testing and elimination of potential causes, do one at a time and try not to become overwhelmed by the symptoms.


I would look at the coolant leak closely, there is a weep hole in the water pump and a search of the archives should show how that can raise havoc with the Opti.

Pull any codes with a scan tool or paper clip, again the search function is your friend, lots of posts cover the procedure, try member Casethecorvetteman, I know he has done some great write ups on it.
Check the fuel pressure as advised, no matter what parts were replaced the only way to eliminate that possibility is to test it.

If you have that "wallet explosion" urge again my suggestion would be to spend your money on tools or expertise rather than parts, my bet is you will get more bang for your buck. Lastly a sincere good luck with your car and again my apology.

 

we all have bad days

i myself just completely ****ted on someone on another car forum

it happens

well i have a toyota master tech as a neighbor and hes bringin over the obdII scan tool since i have an OBDII plug for the OBDI system in the car

out of everything

if its anything

its that damn water pumps fault

everytime the opti gets a chance to dry out itll fire right up

o btw who the hell thought an optical distributor was a good idea?

o and btw that wallet explosion

is only to fix problems

waterpump <~~ need
thermostat 160*<~~necessary
MSD cap and rotor <~opinions?
serpentine belt<~~gonna replace regardless
plugs<~~probly same ones it came with
fuel filter<~~probly full of crap
fuel sock for pump<~~looks bad gonna replace
tranny drain flush and filter<~~probly needs it
oil and filter of course<~~gotta do it dont know last time it was changed

 

Bad day isn't a decent excuse, better to just shut up rather than beat on someone who already has problems but thanks for your understanding.
I have heard several pros say that most of the time the cap and rotor will fix the Opti if it just got wet, your call since it is almost as much work as replacing the whole thing but it is quite a bit cheaper.
If I was doing mine I would use the MSD cap and rotor unless the distributor showed serious wear after removing the cap, then I would use their replacement distributor. My son in law installed one and said it is very nice.

 

well i was thinking of rebuilding the distributor while i have the water pump and balancer off

its usually just the "optical diode"<~possible wrong words

that wears from the heat

well technically "I" wont but my neighbor will

that is if there is any sort of rebuild kit or i can find the parts

dont get me wrong ive been working on cars for 8 years swapping motors and trannys and such and ive even worked at a machine shop rebuilding heads and machining parts

ive got the mechanical things down blindfolded

its the electrical stuff that gets me sometimes

 

"Ive got the mechanical things down blindfolded
its the electrical stuff that gets me sometimes"

I think I'm going to use that one in my signature

 

where can i get that sensor?

just the sensor

 

If you work on cars, why in the hell would you replace all fuses?

 

I can appreciate you enthusiasm wanting to repair it all, reminds me of myself. I got a lifetime of electrical design, repair with commercial, military and automotive experience. I don’t know if this is logical feasible, part can be obtained and financially right. The bearings do wear also along with the seals. I don’t think you will ever get the part, probably only the manufactures have access to it. The optical pickup is the one item that causes almost no problems. The cap and rotor is number one. Unless your getting a code 16 and do not have the low resolution pulse, how do you know its even bad.

The cost to replace all this stuff with the same housing, will probably out weigh the cost to replace the whole unit. You can get then from Ebay for about $300. Put your time into figuring out what’s going on with that strange fuel pump and fuse problem or something else worthwhile.

Not trying to tell you what to do, but let work on the things we can repair and need attention.