hi guys,
just wandering what a red hot glowing exhasut header mean ??
my right hand side header mainly in the middle was glowing bright red hot,i think there is a problem ???
what does this mean r.e engine tuning/problem with intake ??
the 8 t/b intake was back firing/spluttering thru some of the 8 t/b trumpets.
it got that hot the the exhasut near the 6 speed tans causght on fire under there and luckily i got to it and extinguished it before it blew the whole dam car up.
i couldnt get the adj fuel regulator preasure down past about 60 psi also,i tried diffreent t.p. settings also.
also at times, the air/fuel ratio guage i have in cabin wasnt showing any bars at all also.
the 30 lb fms injectors all been serviced with filters,o rings,baskest,cleaned also leak down back preasure with in about a couple of minutes as well.
i set dist timing on o degree tdc,set dist cap rotor on #1 cylinder as well,timing was at about 8-10 btdc also

any ideas whats going please guys??
thanks
shae

 

60 PSI fuel pressure? I'll take a wild guess and say it's running rich.

 

Generally WAY lean as indicated by your A/F gauge.
Some thing wrong with your fuel system
From your other post you have the regulator on the return side of the rails?

 

hi there guys,
yep 60 psi fuel preasure and yep the regualtor is located near alternator on retun left hand side fuel rail but located after fuel rail.
is the regulator in the rite spot/position where i put it ?
the red hot header wa sonly the rite side though,does that mean a sever lean hot problem??
temp seems to be ok,i ran it lke this for about 2-3 minutes or so.
i think there is some major stuff up guys.
also after the small fire, there was a clicking on/off sound coming from rear of car,not sure whats happened now?
thanks
shae

 

"clicking on/off sound "
Prob overheated exhaust cooling off.
At 60 lb you should be rich , but would appear rt bank ain't getting enough fuel.
Your fuel lines run pump ,
right rail ,
left rail ,
regulator ,
return?

 

hi rod,
yep fuel lines run pump, thenright rail,cross over at rear of engine,left rail thru to regualator,back out bottom of reg back thru to retun fuel line.
has there got some thing to do with the standrd computer and chip not keeping up with 8x t/b,s may be?
what would cause this red hot condition??
have i dont alot of damage??
shae

 

Do you still have the stock chip (tune ) in it?
SD are alot less forgiving than MAF when doing induction mods.
Is your modded MAP sensor connected?
Do you have any thing to log the engine so you can see what the sensors are actually reading??

Doubt it will run correctly with that but should not be lean on one bank

 

hi rod,
stock chip into still !
yep m.a.p is connected and conects to same pipe as fuel reg vacuum runs off .
i do a have a hand held nemysis otc obd1 scanner, i should hook that up yeah?
thnaks
shae

 

This is generally caused by fuel being ignited in the exhaust, not in the chamber. Double check everything that effects timing.

Initial distributor install making sure you're using #1 tdc, not #6 tdc.

Plug wire routing...take'm off and start again with a diagram that shows which distributor post goes to which plug. I have people with years of experience make this simple mistake.

 

Do you have dual cats? If you do the red hot side has a plugged cat. The classic shop test for a plugged cat is to hold the car at 2000rpm for about 30sec The exhaust will glow cherry red.
When my 87 (single cat) broke up a pre cat and plugged up the main cat it would barely make enough rpm to get it high gear no matter how much throttle you gave it.

JS

 

Is there a tuner anywhere that you can have your car towed to where they can spend some time logging info and getting it on the dyno to see where the tune is at ? Not sure I would be driving it around on a stock chip. Youve done a loit of work to it, why risk baking it now?

 

running an engine on any stationary mount with no airflow to cool the headers will produce a ''rosy glow'' from the headers...steel glows dull red at abt 800*F, far above ignition temps of wood/ paper/ many plastics (including fiberglass), exercise caution....should have a minumum of two ''good'' fans, one fan blowing onto each side of the engine..for extended testing, a third fan to cool the oil pan should also be used...do not just set fans in front of the radiator as insufficient air flow will occur beyond.

can't comment without extensive knowledge of your set-up but 60 psi fuel press raises questions.

not highly alarmed by your short period of ''glow'' , have seen several engines run till all the tubes were bright red with no lasting effect...''chilling'' your headers with the fire ext likely the worst as the headers may have experienced thermal shock damage (crack prematurely)

 

There is no way your car is going to run right with 30lb injectors, 60 psi fuel pressure, that unique intake, and a STOCK computer chip.

 

I bet it is the intake, it is much more complex and I bet it is making 1 or more cylinders go lean. Each one can be adjusted, right? And you definately need a tune.

 

Right bank consists of cylinders 2-4-6-8. Which of the header
primaries for the cylinder(s) were glowing?

I agree with RainDelay's assessment and recommendations. Go back
to recheck that the distributor was installed with the rotor pointing at
the #1 terminal when #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke.
When the timing mark on the dampener is at 0º, it can mean that

1. #1 cylinder is at TDC on compression and #6 is at TDC
   on exhaust (Good) or
2. #6 cylinder is at TDC on compression and #1 is at TDC
   on exhaust (not good)

As an aid for rechecking the plug wire connections, refer to the
following:
I disagree with advancing the timing for an untried combination.
Hypereutectic pistons are sensitive to preignition and detonation. Be
conservative and set timing at the OEM value. Experiment later once
engine operation has stabilized and you have some way of monitoring
for signs of detonation.

To get the car to idle and run at low speed, there is no need for
big injectors.

To begin with, the FMS 30# injectors are rated at FORD's pressure
of 40 psi - at GM's pressure of 43.5 psi, FMS 30# injectors flow
closer to 32.6#.

Currently, emo-vet's engine is essentially stock. A rule of thumb
for calculating injector sizing is (Max HP x BSFC)/ no. of cylinders.
For a '91 L98, my vote is that 250 CHP is reasonable, as is 0.50
BSFC. Therefore: (250 x 0.50)/8 = 15.63 lbs/hr. From this I conclude
that OEM 22# injectors are more than adequate for the engine's current
requirements.

Which is it: 30-35 or 60 psi?

If the regulator will not permit f-pressure to be adjusted below 60 psi,
there is a problem that needs to be corrected before the engine runs
again.

.

 

Just FWIW, but on some styles of injectors, it's possible to increase the fuel pressure to the point that the injector can't open anymore, which would result in a lean condition. I've no idea if that's the problem or if it can be a problem with the Ford injectors you are using, just tossing it out.

 

This damage needs to be looked at more closely. This thread by
tjwong shows what can happen - Results from a bad tuner

The exhaust is stainless steel and/or aluminized steel in that area.
Neither is prone to combustion. Possibly it was residue on the exhaust.
Maybe it was the floor boards. Perhaps a fuel leak from the f-filter
located in that area?

The car has headers, does it still have cats?. As has been mentioned,
the matrix of the catalytic converter(s) may be melted. Perhaps from
before or now as a result of this incident. If damaged, the matrix will
obstruct exhaust flow.

Eariler starting attempts may have caused fuel to pool in the cat(s)
and then ignite once the engine was running.

.

 

TOTALLY!

BTW, where is your MAP connected? To one ITB runner or to all of them?

 

Good point, I'm not sure what is meant by "middle" in his OP... halfway down header or primaries 4 and 6.

It would make sense that if those plug wires are swapped 6 is firing early (possible knock) and 4 fires late leaving fuel still burning when ex valve opens.

 

wow,hi guys.
thanks for all the replys and help and tips.
cheers for that.
i feel that what has happened has really stuffed me know guys.
the car smeels of skoke as the trans tunnel caught on fire and a little part of the carpet /fibreglass brunt.
how do i ever get the smoke smell away ??
i feel that i did get the dist timing rite at tdc " o ".
the m.a.p is connected on the same pipe as the regulator vacuum pipe and they connect to back of manifold fitting which get conects to bottom of manifold chamber that is built in.
so it only goes to the one chmaber not indivdual runners
m.a..p is only 6 months old, i have two high flow cats also that are only 6 months old also.
the exhaust is stainless steel also
the fuel prasure was running at about 60 psi when it was idling,couodnt get it much lower with out reg screw falling out.
i feel that i have jumped the gun alot with what i have done and proberely is my own fault,stock chip,large injectors,amature stuffing around not knowing to do things rite.
i have to go to work now guys ,but i will back to you this evening on this problem.
thanks kindly for your help.
cheers
shae