Rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction (as viewed from the front
looking toward the rear).

Chin up.

Slowly, methodically - you'll work things out in due course.

.

 

For now, sprinkle some baking soda on the carpet. It absorbs odours
and as long as you don't get it wet, it vacuums out as easily as dust.
Try a small bit to convince yourself it will come out and if convinced,
apply more.

Once the car is running well, drive fast with the windows open.

You are able to see 30-35 psi while the engine is stopped but FP goes to
60 psi while the engine is running? My vote is that increased
voltage while the engine running may be raising pump flow and
if so, then this higher flow is exceeding the capacity of the return
line. Because the return line can not pass the necessary capacity,
pressure between the pump and regulator rises.

On the other hand, if you were once able to set the pressure lower
but can no longer adjust the regulator below 60 psi under any conditions,
then my vote is that something is now obstructing the return line.

Edit: Italicized statement above originally appeared as follows

When manifold vacuum is present at the port of a conventional
regulator, this reduces rather than increases pressure in the system between
the pump and the regulator. Manifold pressure (from boost) to a
secondary, rising rate regulator will cause pressure in the pump-to-reg
system to rise - potentially to the maximum pressure the pump is capable of.


.

 

Use Baking Soda, this is different than baking powder.

I can't say whether BS is that much different than BP as far as odour
absorption is concerned, but you do not want to accidently use one in
place of the other when making pancakes for the family.

.

 

hi guys,
im back again after a long day at work
thanks once again to slalom and you other guys for your great help

as soon as i got home after letting the whole car air out over night and today, i then washed car exteror,then sprinkled like you said carpet deodoriser and glen 20 disinfectant into whole car capet,i also vaccumed up where whole in carpet is to remove old smelly flakey charcoal bits,i think in time should be ok.

now r.e problem i think that where the hot glowing pipes were it was running very lean on those cylinders.
im thinking rite to get tom wong do do two chips for me,one chip just to adjust fuel and igntion timing tables to just try and get the thing to run and idle and then another chip with the list of all the mods i have already and will get next year so then onece i have rebuild my spare 4 bolt roller block i can just fit it all inc ther new custom worked chip.

do you think that i have the fuel preasure reg placed in the wrong position may be ??

what could be obstructing the return fuel line do you reackon ??
what should i do r.e the vaccum port then from manifold??
is it needed and tro strong like you were mentioning ?
#4 &#6 were glowing bright red last night
so what is first course of action guys please now ??
should i put olkd **** 22 lb injectors back in then do you reackon for the moment ??
just wait till i get new tune/chip ,then have another go at running the car as well as re check dist timing /spark plug locations ??
thanks alot
shae

 

I'm not sure what your manifold looks like, but from what you're saying
it has some sort of plenum where vacuum from all cylinder runners
is connected.
If that is the case than your engine could work with stock ECU.
If you are using vacuum source from only one cylinder runner you can forget about tuning your engine with stock ECM.
Also, if your vacuum source is coming from only one cylinder, FPR
won't work properly.

 

This is exactly where I'm shooting at. ITB manifolds tipically have very
low vacuum.

And if emo-vet is using vacuum from only one cylinder, there is NO WAY
that his engine will run right ( edit: with stock ECM )

 

Print off the thread, draw boxes beside each suggestion
& question made to date, tick each one as you work through
the list and then report back with your findings.

.

 

hi sliding,
yes mate,my manifold base at bottom has a built in vacuum chamber ito each runner,no problem there.
slalom4me, do you think that my adj fuel regualator is in the ok position located on drivers side after fuel rail location ??
what about how i hooked up the i.a.c,can that stuff things up for me at all?
so what praesure should i have 30 lb injectors at?,or should i put 22 lb back in ?
i will do what you said slalom,i will print of questions/answers and go thru all of them!
thanks
shae

 

IF you have possibility, you could try and hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold and check readings to make sure that map sensor and FPR
are getting proper vacuum to work with.

 

headers glowing are from 2 things. Lean mixtures or Late timing. It's odd that it's only on 2 so I would triple check the plugs, wires and wires on the dizzy.

My headers glowed a bit when I was first tuning my motor and it was due to late timing.

 

hi sliding and pryderei,
thanks for your helpful info also!
cheers
shae

 

Straight up question..

Have you gone back and double checked the routing of plug wires and distributor installation?

 

I remember the first time when I accidentally set the base timing to 8 degrees ATDC on a crappy carbed car. The car felt slow, sluggish and the carpet covering the transmission tunnel felt unusually warm against my leg. My dad told me to pop the hood and we saw the exhaust manifolds glowing. It was the combustion happening in the exhaust manifold which was essentially being wasted there instead working to drive up the piston in the next cycle. Yes, it is true that retarded timing essentially makes cars feel "retarded", run hot and slow at the same time.

 

It means, "Hey honey, grab the marshmallows, huh?"

 

hi raindelay,
thanks for asking on my progress .
on the weekend im going to re set tps,re wire plug leads,check over fuel regulator,dist timing,base timing and see how we go again.
also i did what slalom suggested and put baking soda on intertior carpet where fire was also.
i will keep you guys posted ok.
cheers
shae

 

Any news about this?

 

Check your timing. I had redone the heads on another vehicle of mine (94 Ranger) and the exhaust manifold was glowing red also. Reset the timing and it was fine.

 

emo-vet, you didn't mention it, but did you adjust the valves on your engine lately?
It sounds like you tightened a couple down too far, keeping the valve open during combustion. As for the fire on the headers, that sounds like oil dripped on them while you adjusted the valves.

 

hi there guys,
how are ya!
r.e the glowing headers i had and the valves, i didnt even touch the valves at all actually guys.
so im thinking that it had some thing to do with timing or fuel i guess.
but now i have just brought a heltech e6x after market computer to install now which should help run this 8 t/b intake!
thanks for the interest/enquiry again
merry x-mas and happy safe new year to you all!
cheers guys
shae