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I have done this as well. once it made the alt go into 3 pieces.
next was alt and bracket.
had a welder put the bracket back together.
bought a new one for back up.
Made a brace similar to stock, but used flat steel stock. one end to the alt like stock, the other to a header bolt. cut, grind, or make spacers. whatever it takes.... it needs it.
I've been thinking I probably at the very least need to run the longer one that goes back to the third bolt back and I did find a nos bracket at the dealer but I still need the long stud which has been discontinued by GM
That rear mount goes between a threaded hole on the back of the alternator where the ground attaches over to a header/exhaust manifold bolt. I broke one the same way a couple of years ago, I replaced the cast mount and doubled-up on the the top adjustment bracket like LD85 and triangulated it to help stop the vibrations.
I have spares if you need them. I've been using an alternator relocation kit for awhile along with a shorter belt and do not have anymore use for those 2 pieces.
I've been thinking I probably at the very least need to run the longer one that goes back to the third bolt back and I did find a nos bracket at the dealer but I still need the long stud which has been discontinued by GM
I ran my homemade bracket to the 3rd bolt as well. I lost my stock bracket, so when I put the stock exhaust back on it I had to use the piece I fabbed up.
it is really simple. here is the only shot I could find with it... bad pic, engine is torn half way down currently so I cant update the pic.
You can find a spacer and use a longer bolt to copensate instead of trying to find a stock bolt. the spacer may need to be filed down on the side towards the primary if you are running headers. Or you could try and fab a metal piece that is cut to sit against the header primary. basically grind a half circle into the flat stock.
Mine is just flat stock I found at home depot or lowes. bent the angles in a vise with a hammer, drilled the holes and rounded the corners in a grinder.
if those are hookers the stock one won't work, you will have to make one. The stock one is intended to go to #1 cylinder 2nd bolt, w/hkr. headers that won't fit anymore. You will have to use the bolt before cylinder #3 and use an extension tube to clear the header. I made mine w/1/2" x1/16" wall mild steel tubing (see my pics). Not that big of a deal to make....just a little time and a few bucks for some steel tubing.
I ran my homemade bracket to the 3rd bolt as well. I lost my stock bracket, so when I put the stock exhaust back on it I had to use the piece I fabbed up.
it is really simple. here is the only shot I could find with it... bad pic, engine is torn half way down currently so I cant update the pic.
You can find a spacer and use a longer bolt to copensate instead of trying to find a stock bolt. the spacer may need to be filed down on the side towards the primary if you are running headers. Or you could try and fab a metal piece that is cut to sit against the header primary. basically grind a half circle into the flat stock.
Mine is just flat stock I found at home depot or lowes. bent the angles in a vise with a hammer, drilled the holes and rounded the corners in a grinder.
Thanks for the tip...I'll work on it this weekend and see what I can make.
Same thing happened to me. It was because I tightened the bracket bolts too tight, causing stress fractures which eventually gave way later on. Broke my altenator case the same way yours broke.
Bolts should be just snug, not very tight. Better yet, torque to specs if you can get a small torque wrench in there.
And yes, a missing rear alt bracket can cause it too.
You can find a spacer and use a longer bolt to copensate instead of trying to find a stock bolt.
Indeed. I did that with my rear AC bracket.
Here's a pic of TA's car and home made bracket. He could not use the bolt on the first primary because the tube bends in the way. So he went with the second primary, spacer sleeve, and longer custom bracket. Looks good. (TA, want to make me one for a fee?)
Here's a pic of 98Red's car. His headers allow for the use of the stock bracket to the first primary tube.
My Hooker's require a long bracket to the second primary tube because of the bend on the first primary. Just like TA's.
When I upgraded my stock L98 alternator to the ZR1 CS-144 alternator, the stock alternator brace no longer fit so, I just left it off. The alternators been fine for over a year without the brace but, since the Vette's a daily driver, I didn't want to take any chances.
After reading this post, I quickly fabricated a brace out of the stock piece. I cut both ends off the stock brace and welded the two shorter pieces together.
This is all good stuff! I ordered a new lower bracket from Vette2Vette for $30 and also have them sending me a worn out stock alt so I can pull the case off of it. I'll have to fab up a brace. Lots of good ideas in this post. I love the forum