C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

super ram in vette 85

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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:06 PM
  #1  
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Default super ram in vette 85

bonjours has all then I have to assemble a super RAM on my 85, and J “have a preoccupation with a cold start because one cannot assemble the 9 injector on the pipe of the RAM I have disappointed injector of 24 lbs/h.

I envisaged to put a petrol station of 255lbs/h its would be the solution?

if not for the moment it starts that with star pile not having more than 9 injector


thank you for your answer in advance!!!!
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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does nobody have to meet those problem one assembling his RAM?
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 12:57 PM
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Without the cold start injector it will crank longer before starting but will still start/run fine. You do not need a larger fuel pump. 24 lb/hr injectors are fine though.

Perhaps you can program the chip to enrich the other 8 injectors during cranking.

Someone on here knows the answer, have some patience.

Last edited by CentralCoaster; Nov 25, 2007 at 12:59 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Without the cold start injector it will crank longer before starting but will still start/run fine. You do not need a larger fuel pump. 24 lb/hr injectors are fine though.

Perhaps you can program the chip to enrich the other 8 injectors during cranking.

Someone on here knows the answer, have some patience.

Thank you for your reply I thank you, in fact, I know not the right to reschedule the emc, I wait time must I éspère that my English is not too bad since I am french ahhh french no such restraint lol
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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When you install the SR, there is no provision on the complete set up (base, runners and plenum) for the cold start injector (9th injector). You will have to put a plug in the back of the fuel rail on the driver's side where the 9th injector would normally screw into the rail. The car will crank a couple of seconds longer, but will start and run fine. You can have your chip altered to add additional fuel at start up, but it is not needed. Combine the SR, a set of heads and exhaust work and you are up and running.

Spend a little time up front and preassemble the unit and do a little gasket matching with a grinder to smooth out the air flow. You will be pleased with the results.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
When you install the SR, there is no provision on the complete set up (base, runners and plenum) for the cold start injector (9th injector). You will have to put a plug in the back of the fuel rail on the driver's side where the 9th injector would normally screw into the rail. The car will crank a couple of seconds longer, but will start and run fine. You can have your chip altered to add additional fuel at start up, but it is not needed. Combine the SR, a set of heads and exhaust work and you are up and running.

Spend a little time up front and preassemble the unit and do a little gasket matching with a grinder to smooth out the air flow. You will be pleased with the results.
thank you hear you what by "preassemble the unit and do a little gasket matching with a grinder to smooth out the air flow"

I do not understand too much thank you in any case have a photograph of your systém of your answers
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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Default Gasket matching....

If you preassemble the parts such as the intake base and the runners (don't tighten the bolts) you will see if everything fits or if you need to grind away some material to get clearance on the bolt heads.

When I talk of gasket matching, I am indicating that you place the gasket used between the intake base and the runners on the intake and hold it in place with bolts...again do not tighten. You will notice that there is excess material on the intake as compared to the gasket. You can take a metal scribe and mark the inside of the gasket holes onto the manifold. If you now take a die grinder and grind away the excess material to the lines you scribed on the manifold you are smoothing out the passage of air between the three parts (intake manifold, gasket and runners). When you place the gasket back onto the intake manifold, the holes should match up perfectly. Do the same thing for the gasket to the runners. And then match the runners to plenum gaskets. Also smooth out any seams or imperfections in the intake, runners or plenum. Be sure to use compressed air and blow off and out any ground off materials before installing the parts on the engine.

If you think of this as joining two pipes of different sizes together it may be clearer. Think of joining a 2" pipe to a 3" pipe (think of really FAT wall pipe). Joining these two togther would give you a 1/2" lip between the two. If you grind out the 2" pipe where it joins the 3" to a 3" diameter you have created a smooth transition between the two. This is what you are doing by matching the gaskets.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
If you preassemble the parts such as the intake base and the runners (don't tighten the bolts) you will see if everything fits or if you need to grind away some material to get clearance on the bolt heads.

When I talk of gasket matching, I am indicating that you place the gasket used between the intake base and the runners on the intake and hold it in place with bolts...again do not tighten. You will notice that there is excess material on the intake as compared to the gasket. You can take a metal scribe and mark the inside of the gasket holes onto the manifold. If you now take a die grinder and grind away the excess material to the lines you scribed on the manifold you are smoothing out the passage of air between the three parts (intake manifold, gasket and runners). When you place the gasket back onto the intake manifold, the holes should match up perfectly. Do the same thing for the gasket to the runners. And then match the runners to plenum gaskets. Also smooth out any seams or imperfections in the intake, runners or plenum. Be sure to use compressed air and blow off and out any ground off materials before installing the parts on the engine.

If you think of this as joining two pipes of different sizes together it may be clearer. Think of joining a 2" pipe to a 3" pipe (think of really FAT wall pipe). Joining these two togther would give you a 1/2" lip between the two. If you grind out the 2" pipe where it joins the 3" to a 3" diameter you have created a smooth transition between the two. This is what you are doing by matching the gaskets.

Ok I will make heat the dremel!
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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there is no chip or of emc already not envisaged for this purpose except the accel dfi???


:o
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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Hey MAX...
Nice car!!!
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 10:50 PM
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If you do not change the cam, you will be okay using the chip that is already in your car. No need to change or re-program.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 11:43 PM
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I reprogrammed the chip (very easy to do) and it starts perfectly, just like stock.
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by GRX
I reprogrammed the chip (very easy to do) and it starts perfectly, just like stock.
you have to use what like programs to reprogram emc thank you

Mark85Vett
your vette and also beautiful
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MAXsuperam
you have to use what like programs to reprogram emc thank you
Use TunerCATS to program the eprom. See their website.
I have the Pocket Programmer to write to the eprom. See Craig Moates
website for other solutions like the Ostrich.
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