I recall during the summer, myself along with a few others inquired about where to find a can tap for R12 so that the system could be charged. I went into my local AutoZone and hanging there just as pretty as you please was an R12 can tap and charging hose.

$9.99!!!!

No guages, but I was told they could get them. The guy there actually had a clue and looked the guages up on the computer. I forgot to ask the price though.

Every AutoZone is supposed to be able to get these if you want one.

Part #066748 461 R-12 Recharge $9.99

You guys have been great to me on helping me identify all these little demons that get into my car. So I am more than happy to pass this little piece along.

Hopefully there will be someone else on here just as happy as I am!

 

None of the parts stores (including Autozone) carries R12 in my area. I havent asked at Autozone, but NAPA doesnt have it and cant get it.

 

I don't think it is real R-12. It is whats called "drop in" for R-12. It may or may not work.

 

It's probably that cheap crap from Mexico that contains propane. Be very careful of imitation R-12.

 

Lots of people use freeze 12 and it seems to work fine. Not an expert like others but do have an A/C business with 20 trucks on the road !

 

He's talking about the tap for the can, not a can of R-12.

 

Save the propane for the grill..............

 

Must be the one on 138 next to dunkin donuts huh?

 

I know a local ac shop who still sells the r12. He has charged my ac system in my last two vettes I have owned. He must have the real stuff because I have not had any problems with the ac systems in both cars.

 

Good luck with that. I tried 2 of those R12 can taps and both were garbage. They use a plastic seal and it's got a casting line right in the middle of it. It'll **** all your precious refrigerant out and freeze your fingers.


I ended up buying a quality set of hoses and a manifold for $80.

 

Yea, I would look for a quality manifold gauge set. You can't get R-12 anymore, at least in this country so you wouldn't want to release it into the atmosphere. All that junk you see in the white cans,... for that matter anything with the R12 label that was recently produced (like the last 10 years) is not R12, its either propane, or a number of other gases. The immitation R12 propane stuff works well until your first front end collision... then you have a Carbicue. The rest of the immitation R12's eat both the Black R12 O-rings and also the superceeded R134a green -O-rings in time. From what I remember learning it is not compatible with Ester or PAG oil and can cause damage to the compressor shaft seal.

I wouldn't discount the Mexican R12 only because they are still able to make it over their legally. I would see no reason for them to include harmful chemicals (harmful to the A/C system at least) if they can legally make it. But anything that is imported (legally) or is made here with the letters R-12 is not in fact R-12.

The best thing you can do is find some old cans of R12 or do a 134a conversion which is an afternoon project; and don't buy into all the hype about R12 being colder than 134a.... with the proper install and parts R134a will run at the same temperatures, around 36*F-48*F if i remember correctly.

DG

 

I got some Dupont R12 cans from Mexico, it's something like $4 per can at the autoparts store. You're probably not supposed to transport it across the border without a license.

I guess someone could be making imitation cans.

I don't see the big deal about flammability. There are plenty of other flammable things where all the sources of ignition are, under the hood. Isn't HFC-R134a flammable anyways? Sounds like a hydrocarbon compound to me.

I recall R12 is superior to R134a because of the lower operating pressures which means better efficiency and less work and heat from the compressor. (correct me if I'm wrong) Plus the coils are optimized for R12 operating pressures. If the R12 isn't any colder it must be because the system isn't normally being used to it's full potential. Try it out on a roasting hot day in a roasting hot car and you might get a different result though.

 

R12 is still legally availible in the US, but only as old stock. You just can't release it into the atmosphere, manufacture it, or import it from outside the US, and you need to have an EPA license to buy it.

R12 does have a lower boiling point than 134. I wouldn't convert to 134 unless I was replacing everything since the different oils used for r12 and 134 don't mix. Lots of cheap 134 conversions are done anyway ignoring that fact. I don't know how well that works over the long haul, but as long as R12 is availible, I see no need to convert.

 

That might be true about the efficiency; I never learned that nor did it come to mind. In a fixed orifice system if you upgrade the orifice or go for a VOV it doesn't matter how hot it is outside, the system will automatically adjust to compensate for hot outside temperatures. Fact of the matter is, you can get your A/C system to operate at less than 32*F but you will be hot as hell in your car when the evaporator freezes into a block of ice and your blower motor can't push any air through the system. The R12/134a debate is the same as the thermostat debate, the same as the motor oil debate. Bottom line, doesn't matter which one you use, both will get the job done.

Correct on the legality. You can still buy it from auto places that carry it but you must have a license to purchase it, which thankfully i have . On the other hand, good luck finding true R12 on the shelf at any autoparts stores and if you do PM me so i can go buy it all up.

As for the conversion if you are able to effectively fix the leak in the system then the conversion is not the best way to go. But if you are going to leak $50 cans of R12 into the automosphere daily, monthly, or even yearly then why not convert? I will be converting mine in the spring... I already purchased everything, i think it ran me under $100 total...

Check out ACKITS.com thats the site i have been using for years.

I still have 6 cans or so of R12... I am saving for when i restore my Chevelle.

DG

 

You can also buy R12 on craigslist. The demand for it is very flat. There's hardly any R12 cars on the road down here anymore. I've paid an average of $20 per can.

May be less for sale the further you are from the border, but the ones I bought were just old cans from people clearing out their garages, and none of them cared about EPA licensing.

 

Mine was already converted over to R134 when I bought it so oh well. It works good even though I hardly ever use it. I know theres an AC/Radiator shop in my area, guy does really really good work for cheap, and he sells R12. He fixed a huge hole in my radiator for like $20

 

I have had no trouble getting R12 at my local NAPA, though they did check & zerox my EPA license. I had to buy a can or two there at ~$30 each last year. I've got a working recovery system now and some extra R12 so that won't be a problem again.

If I were venting freon, or anything else - I'd fix the leak. Converting in my book means replacing the evaporator, condensor, and accumulator. The accumulator is a given, but the evaporator and condensor have parallel coils, so you can't effectively flush them. While you're at it, the compressor can be flushed, but it's the one part most likely to be worn out and need replacing anyway, unless you want to take a chance on blowing metal bits through your nice new evaporator and condensor when it does go south.

If I were to lose a compressor and need to replace everything, I guess I'd convert. There are a lot of opinions on the long term outcome of mixing the two refrigerant oils. You're probably OK doing it, I'm just going to play it safe and stay away from mixing them. Once you're set up to deal with R12, it's no more trouble or expense to keep the system original.

 

Thats where i got my last 3 cans.... I paid like $50 for all 3. They must be from the late 60's... I don't have them in front of me but I think Jet-Air made them? If I don't use them they will make a good conversation piece in the future... think of it as garage art.

DG

 

I get it on E-BAY. I think I have a leak somewhere and if it's in the evap I'm not too keen on opening up that can of worms. All I do is fix this thing.