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The biggest performance increases come from getting rid of as much unsprung weight as possible, like wheels, tires. Example, 100 lbs unsprung weight loss gives more performance than 100 lbs sprung weight loss. But any weight loss is good. There is a wealth of weight to be lost in straight axle cars, but aluminum stuff is pricey. It is easy to dump $10-thou in a race car rear end. If you ever look through a MW catalog, be sure you are sitting down first.
An easy way to check the accuracy of scales (most are digital nowadays) is weigh the car with you off the scales and then just step on the scale and see if the weight goes up by your body weight. I have used a scale at a local feed store (they buy and sell hay by the truckload weight). It was dead on.
An easy way to check the accuracy of scales (most are digital nowadays) is weigh the car with you off the scales and then just step on the scale and see if the weight goes up by your body weight. I have used a scale at a local feed store (they buy and sell hay by the truckload weight). It was dead on.
I did this back when I was 19 or so with another car. It was for some dirt hill/mine barried in the back of town... but the scales were at the front. sometimes they were locked up, sometimes they weren't.
I threw my first car on there then jumped on it. it was right...
It is always frustrating when folks quote their car with partial amounts of fuel or people. Just adds variables...ie my latest 96 shows just off full when it has only 10 gallons left. My 91 was more accurate, but still they are optimistic for actual fuel quantity. Each gallon is 6.7 or so pounds.
Also when fully clothed, I weigh a good bit more than when I usually step on the scale (too much info, I know!).