AFR Experiences?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,946
Likes: 63
From: Marianna FL
AFR Experiences?
Building my 383 and finally bought my pushrods. Assembling the rocker arms, studs, and pushrods this weekend I found a problem. When installed per the AFR instructions, the guideplates force the intake pushrods into the side of the intake port. Turning the plates over pull them away from the intake ports, but it does not allow me to adjust the guideplates to center the rocker arms over the center of the valvestem. I called AFR and their response was they were not aware of anyone having issues with the LT4 210's. This is VERY annoying to have to remove the heads and clearance them so that the rockers can be correctly aligned. Has anyone else run into this using AFR or other aftermarket heads?
Other little annoyances discovered this weekend:
Happened to notice that the oil pump housing was hitting my ARP main studs and not allowing the pump to seat correctly. Easy fix.
The Moroso cast aluminum valve covers that are "made for extra rocker clearance", don't clear the Comp Cams Pro Magnum rockers I have. More time consuming fix.
Other little annoyances discovered this weekend:
Happened to notice that the oil pump housing was hitting my ARP main studs and not allowing the pump to seat correctly. Easy fix.
The Moroso cast aluminum valve covers that are "made for extra rocker clearance", don't clear the Comp Cams Pro Magnum rockers I have. More time consuming fix.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,209
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From: Mo
When I built 396 and used the Lt4 heads I had to clearance them alittle. But it's the 1st set of Afr's I had ever had that problem with. which guideplates you using? I take you didn't preassemble to check the fit 1st. one of my habits. anyway good luck
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,946
Likes: 63
From: Marianna FL
I'm using the flat AFR guideplates that came with the heads. I checked everything I thought I would have a problem with. Obviously I didn't think I'd have a problem with that since the passage looked so large and open. Live and learn.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,946
Likes: 63
From: Marianna FL
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Dave,
I had to clearance my AFR 195 comp heads in the area of the pushrods also but fortunately I picked up the problem during my mock-up. You wouldn't think you would or should have to do this on nice heads but both sets of my AFR's required it. I am also assuming your using 5/16" dia. and not 3/8" pushrods? Incorrect valve train goeometry could also play a part in pushrod contact. I marked the area of contact at assy.,then removed the head and ground the areas using a high speed burr motor and then refitted each. I think you will find AFR also recommends the long slot in the guide plates goes with the intake and short slot goes to exhaust? I went as far as grinding the hole diameter a little larger in the guide plates for the rocker studs to allow some side to side movement and help reposition some of the roller rockers tips in the center of the valve stem better through the full travel of valve lift because I found some misalignment on some of the rockers during assembly that I didn't like.
I had to clearance my AFR 195 comp heads in the area of the pushrods also but fortunately I picked up the problem during my mock-up. You wouldn't think you would or should have to do this on nice heads but both sets of my AFR's required it. I am also assuming your using 5/16" dia. and not 3/8" pushrods? Incorrect valve train goeometry could also play a part in pushrod contact. I marked the area of contact at assy.,then removed the head and ground the areas using a high speed burr motor and then refitted each. I think you will find AFR also recommends the long slot in the guide plates goes with the intake and short slot goes to exhaust? I went as far as grinding the hole diameter a little larger in the guide plates for the rocker studs to allow some side to side movement and help reposition some of the roller rockers tips in the center of the valve stem better through the full travel of valve lift because I found some misalignment on some of the rockers during assembly that I didn't like.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,946
Likes: 63
From: Marianna FL
I am using the 5/16" pushrods. My AFR package and the one on the website say to put the long slot over the exhaust pushrod. The person I talked to at AFR told me that it really didn't matter on the 210's and smaller heads because the valves weren't staggered like the larger heads. He told me to try them both ways, but it looks like they need to be installed as indicated in the directions and the head clearanced a little bit.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one that has run into this. Like I mentioned above, the AFR guy said he'd never heard of it on the 210's or smaller heads.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one that has run into this. Like I mentioned above, the AFR guy said he'd never heard of it on the 210's or smaller heads.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,946
Likes: 63
From: Marianna FL
I thought about using the self aligning rockers, but didn't like the 3/8" rocker studs.
I'm going to see how close the AFR plates get it before buying new guideplates, but the thought has already crossed my mind.
On a related subject: What does everyone think of the hydra-rev kit?
I'm going to see how close the AFR plates get it before buying new guideplates, but the thought has already crossed my mind.
On a related subject: What does everyone think of the hydra-rev kit?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Florida
Hydrarev: I've been using one for 15,000 miles and turn the engine to 7000 rpm.
It makes sense how it works, but I do not have any back to back dyno runs to show it. I did have nasty valve float issues at 6200 and then 6300 prior to the Hydrarev and Beehive valve springs swap. No more issues.
I think it is worth the cost...if you plan to spin the engine 6500+.
:-)
It makes sense how it works, but I do not have any back to back dyno runs to show it. I did have nasty valve float issues at 6200 and then 6300 prior to the Hydrarev and Beehive valve springs swap. No more issues.
I think it is worth the cost...if you plan to spin the engine 6500+.
:-)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,816
Likes: 2
From: Austin, TX
Dave, are yours the new eliminators or the older style ones? I have a set of 210 LT4 elims, but haven't tried mocking them up yet. Actually, I'm like you -- I didn't even think about mocking up the valvetrain before torquing down the heads. I guess I will now 
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,946
Likes: 63
From: Marianna FL
Mine are the old style 210's. I researched and read up on them, so I did a little work to the oil return passages before I put them on. Didn't read of anyone having problems with the pushrod alignment though. 
