Any good articles out there on stripping and painting an 88??? Thanks

 

Go to autobody 101 forum google it. it has a ton of information and it's a forum like this one with alot of people in the business and hobbiests like us. I will tell you this do not media blast a vet I did my C4 and it was a mess it was done with walnut shells I had a test piece done with soda and it was worse when I got it back it looked like rough sawn cedar. took about 12 weeks to get it ready for paint. On my C3 I just took a D/A and a roll of 80 paper it took 21 man hours to strip the whole thing and the bodywork took about a week to get it ready for paint. A friend of mine is having a sanding party for his 77 C3 this weekend 4 or 5 Harbor freight D/A's a roll of paper or 2 and 4 or 5 guys and the car will be stripped in about 5 hours. A couple tips for ya before you sand go over the entire car and trench out the cracks even if it just looks like a scratch trench it. I trench using an air rotary tool with an acorn shaped carbide deburring tip cut about a 1/4 wide 1/4 inch deep trench all the way through the crack and about a half inch past the crack on both ends be very careful to get all of them or they will show back up later. Get a good shop vac I use a Craftsman 5 gal with a bag for dust just set it on the floor below the area you are working on and let it catch the dust and use it to clean your paper instead of using your leg. The shop vac will take care of most of the dust and make clean up easier if you plan to paint in the same area. If you plan to paint in your garage autobody 101 has pics and plans for temporary paint booths or I can show you pics of mine I used a harbor freight dust collector for exhaust plumbed into the ceiling above my garage some tenting material 2 fans and some furnace filters. I have painted 9 cars in it and it still works great and it only costs about $300 to build and it rolls up. If you need more info let me know.

 

Auto section or use the search function...you'll find more than you can read and you can make your own decisions, also web sites like Eastwood paints has great technical section.

 

Tight work, man!! Keep up the good work
I'd love to try with mine.

 

I would like to see your booth set up. Please post pictures or email them.

 

Shoot gator79 a PM - he did a fantastic job on his car, and I'd bet he could give you some tips:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1819252

 

I will post pics of my booth but it will take me a couple days. I am in the middle of putting my mini ram 383 in and I don't have the room to roll it down. Here is a list of the parts and a little more description.
Harbor freight 2hp dust collector the in feed hoses are plumbed into my ceiling with 3" abs pipe I put a slip X slip 3" coupler on the ends and the hoses clamp to it perfectly. The (2) 3" pipes go into the ceiling and I have (4) 1 1/2" pipes sticking through my ceiling with (1) 1 1/2 to 3" bushing and (1) 3" to 5" adapter creating a 5" bell these are set in a 8' x 10' box with a snorkel in each corner. the dust collector exhaust goes out the window not in the bag that takes care of the exhaust. the actual booth is made out of tenting material this is the material that stucco guys use to enclose a house in the winter to keep the stucco warm get it at a contractor supply place it's clear plastic with a thick nylon webbing in it and it costs abot $100 for enough to do about 3 booths. at the top to make it stiff I used the foam stuff concete guys use when they pour new concrete against old concrete I think it's called sill seal or sill joint get the 6" stuff. brass tarp gromets from harbor freight 2 bags about $5 a bag and they come with the tool to crimp them I put them about 12" apart . 1 3/8 chain link fence top pipe (get it from home depot) for the top frame attached to the ceiling with 1/4" X 3" U bolts cut in half with the plate that comes with them welded to the threaded end to attach to the ceiling the other end of the U bolt is welded to the bottom of the 1 3/8 pipe picture a giant shower curtain. the S hooks for the curtain I made out of 1/8" gas welding wire for the joints in the curtain I used velcro squares from Lowes about 1" X1" thats everything for the curtain. for air intake I used a piece of plywood cut to the size of a man door in place of my door with 2 of the biggest furnace filters I could get at home depot in it I also put 2 walmart $15 fans on the filter door blowing in. It was cold when I first used this booth 20 degrees F outside so I put a diesel torpedo heater or shop heater about 8 feet outside the filter door so all the air the booth sucked in was heated but no chance of explosion with like I said 20 F outside it stayed 80 - 85 F in the booth. the booth seals really well with the fans off I farted in it and left came back 20 minutes later and could still smell it LOL with 4 people sitting in it smoking cigarettes it fills up with smoke pretty quick turn the fans on and it clears out in about 20 seconds. I hope that some of this makes sense and helps and like I said I will have pics in a couple days if you want pics email me and I will send them to you

 

Just had my 88 done by a friend of mine, 126 man hours. Block sanded, 5 coats bright red and 3 coats clear. Turned out great. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow. Good luck

 

Here's a few of mine..Home made booth..Very good results...If ya use you head..Clean the shop very well to elimenate dust and dirt..Make a filtered neg flow blower system..I used 2 fans out one in..worked very well ..Very little overspray haze in the air.. Pic's are before buffing out the clear