will lt4 wires work on an lt1 engine?

 

I think they're the same, however I'm having trouble finding ones for either engine of the correct resistance. My stock (I think; they're red) wires all are at about 1 kOhm, but the black replacement wires Advance Auto Parts gave me are all of about 6-10 kOhms. I think this high resistance may have contributed to or caused my OptiSpark failure.

 

Yes, there should be no difference. Routing and configuration will be the same. If you're worried about stock appearance, get the GM replacements. If not, I'd recommend the MSDs. I've had them on my car for about 40K miles now with no issues. No, they won't fit in the stock looms since they're 8.5mm. You'll have to be a bit creative there. But I've had them on there with both the stock manifolds and now with three different sets of headers. Their heat resistance is as good as it gets. If they don't come in direct contact with a manifold or header tube, you'll have no problems. A bit pricey but a good investment for the long term.

 

GM wires are identical for both, but the LT4 wires are red and cost 2x!! Better get some Taylors or Accel wires, MSD fit like crap.

 

I recently had my stock wires changed for the 8.5mm MSDs. They seem great but the only complaint is that I seem to pick up radio interference when listening to AM stations more than with the stock wires. Is this normal?

Doug

 

I've decided to go back with stock LT1 wires I like the look of the LT4 wires but my car is basiclly stock ,and it will be a waste when I can use that money towards new wheel bearings in the front . I finally started to tackle that WP seal today. Thanks for the help though to all who replied.

 

Now for that job I have lots of advice. Remember that along with the six bolts, the water pump has got a pin on each side that lines it up. When you're ready to reinstall it those pins will hold it up by themselves, but do not rest it on those pins until you know 100% that you remembered to put the driveshaft spline back on.

If you're using RTV or some sealer on the gasket expect to make a huge mess if you do not follow a very specific process, since there are two gaskets to line up and fitment is so awkward. Stick the gaskets to the water pump first, checking three or four times that they're not on upside down or backwards before you put the sealer on, and let them dry a bit before you try to reinstall the pump. Put the other layer of sealer on the engine block itself; if you put it on the back of the gasket you will make a mess while you reinstall it. Definitely take off the power steering reservoir's bracket and the ignition coil to make room for putting the water pump back on if you don't have those off already; the water pump is extremely hard to move around without the coil out of the way and your gasket sealer will get everywhere as you try to adjust it. If you don't already have the pump off, you should also know that you must unbolt the power steering pump itself to make room. Don't worry about removing the pulley, just remove the serpentine belt and then access the bolts through the hole in the pulley. Also move the little bolt holding the power steering hose in place near the pump and it will have enough play.

The bolt holes go straight into the engine cooling jacket. Put a whole lot of thread sealer on each bolt, I mean a whole lot. Cover all the threads with a layer so thick that it backs up and squirts out around where the bolt head is when you put the bolt it in. Do not refill your coolant until you have given a while for the bolts' sealant as well as the gaskets to dry. I've had to redo this job twice and replace an OptiSpark because of coolant getting past the bolts; not fun.