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Self aligning narrow body roller rockers, preferably full roller not just roller tip, and for a performance upgrade go to 1.6 rockers. I bought mine from Summit Racing, they were the best deal. Don't forget to remove the drip tabs from the top of the valve covers inside. You can grind them off or just snap them off with vice grips. Some say to change springs and valve seals when going to 1.6 rockers, but I didn't and I didn't have a problem with my stock ones.
Yes, 3/8" stud. If you don't get narrow body they won't work with centerbolt valve covers. And you need self aligning for your year vette. 1.6 rockers will give you a 10-15hp increase, and full roller rockers will give your engine less friction and a little lower oil temp. Summit sells nice blue anodized ones, they are pretty. It's sad to have to cover them up with valve covers!!
Yes, 3/8" stud. If you don't get narrow body they won't work with centerbolt valve covers. And you need self aligning for your year vette. 1.6 rockers will give you a 10-15hp increase, and full roller rockers will give your engine less friction and a little lower oil temp. Summit sells nice blue anodized ones, they are pretty. It's sad to have to cover them up with valve covers!!
Thats the ones I was just looking at. I like the looks and price of them... thanks alot.
I used the CA-1318-16 COMP Cams Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms without clearance issues (except drip tabs). These are steel and run very well.
Though I made the mistake of keeping the 3/8 stud vice changing them out for the 7/16 version. If you thinking about stepping up in power later via better cylinder heads, the 7/16 will help to keep everything aligned.
For the record converted a head (fastburn) removing the guide plates and required ARP longer studs. The heads were raised port. The guide plates are not necessary for self aligning rockers...even the one used just for assembly as the L98 heads
One thing is common though is the need for a 0.100" longer push rod. Hyd lifters forgive up to 0.050ish of improper length, but the 0.100" will help get in the ball park. Read up on how to properly check contact pattern with the valve tip.
I'm planning on using the GM Performance Parts roller rockers with the GMPP studs unless anyone knows about rebuilding factory LT4 rocker arms. The roller bearings are rough and would need to be replaced. Also one managed to jump off the valve tip and needs to be totally replaced as the body of the rocker arm is damaged.
One thing is common though is the need for a 0.100" longer push rod. Hyd lifters forgive up to 0.050ish of improper length, but the 0.100" will help get in the ball park. Read up on how to properly check contact pattern with the valve tip.
I would check valvetrain geometry before buying longer pushrods. Most will need a shorter pushrod with increased lift.
I'm planning on using the GM Performance Parts roller rockers with the GMPP studs unless anyone knows about rebuilding factory LT4 rocker arms. The roller bearings are rough and would need to be replaced. Also one managed to jump off the valve tip and needs to be totally replaced as the body of the rocker arm is damaged.
I also went with the GMPP 1.6 rockers. Seemed like the best balance of cost performance and reliability. I was going to go with the proform "blue anadized ones" but read a lot of bad things about them like the bearings coming apart.
I'm planning on using the GM Performance Parts roller rockers with the GMPP studs unless anyone knows about rebuilding factory LT4 rocker arms. The roller bearings are rough and would need to be replaced. Also one managed to jump off the valve tip and needs to be totally replaced as the body of the rocker arm is damaged.
Midnight, there were some recalls on the early production LT4s for bad rockers. Check to see if your VIN falls between these numbers'
: 5100052 through 5102717 for the first recall
: 5100052 thru 5111116 for the second recall.
The LT4 also uses 10mm studs. Unless you plan on changing them out to 3/8 or 7/16 you'll have limited choices on rockers.
I installed Crane's Gold narrow body self aligning roller rockers on my LT1. I stayed with the 1.5 ratio as Crane said coil bind might be a problem with the 1.6 rato. A set of LT4 springs would take care of that. Also crane required different pushrods for the roller rockers. At the time, I didn't know much about tuning the ECM so I stayed with the OEM ratio rockers. These 1.5 rockers will be going to my son's Camaro and I'll be upgrading to 1.6's now that I know what has to be done. BTW, the gold ones look good, too.
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Originally Posted by ZD1
I used the CA-1318-16 COMP Cams Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms without clearance issues (except drip tabs). These are steel and run very well.
Though I made the mistake of keeping the 3/8 stud vice changing them out for the 7/16 version. If you thinking about stepping up in power later via better cylinder heads, the 7/16 will help to keep everything aligned.
For the record converted a head (fastburn) removing the guide plates and required ARP longer studs. The heads were raised port. The guide plates are not necessary for self aligning rockers...even the one used just for assembly as the L98 heads
One thing is common though is the need for a 0.100" longer push rod. Hyd lifters forgive up to 0.050ish of improper length, but the 0.100" will help get in the ball park. Read up on how to properly check contact pattern with the valve tip.
That's what I used. I used Comp guide plates. I got the non-self aligning version since I had guide plates.
I've used Crane Gold 3/8 1.6 self-aligning, Comp Cams Pro Magnum 3/8 1.6 self-aligning, and currently running Comp Cams Pro Magnum 7/16 1.6 non self-aligning roller rockers. They are all a quality rocker, but it seemed like the Cranes were a bit quieter.
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