The drivers side window on my 84 Corvette won't go all the way up anymore now that I have new weatherstripping. I just removed the door panel, but reaching the window motor looks harder than I previously thought. Has anyone changed theirs? If so, how was the process, and what kind of motor did you buy? Where you purchased it would be helpful too. Thanks!

 

I would recommend the purchase of a factory service manual first. The window is not hard to work on but there are many parts that have to be unbolted and or removed in order to get the window out. You'll want to know where all these parts go when you put it back together. The book will also show you hwo to adjust the window correctly once it is back in.

You should be able to pick up a motor from Autozone. The last few window motors I have done, which included non Corvette, all had lifetime warranties. Considering how often GM motors seem to fail, I like lifetime warraties. The process is not hard and if you think you are pretty good at figuring out how things work, then go at it slowly and you'll be fine. Just do not shut the door before you verify the glass is positioned correctly.

 

I replaced the driver's side before. The motor for the C4 is the same used in the old Chevy S-10 mini trucks.

It unbolts from the bottom and side and, the window/glass....you'll need patience

Factory motor is attached with rivets, drill them out and use new motors supplied bolts, do not overtight

 

The early C4s had a ribbon style regulator that over the years slowed down either due to crud building up in the channel that the ribbon slid along or the motor is started to wear out.

Upgrading to the later style regulator overcomes all the shortcomings the early regulators had especially the speed and the power to overcome new outer door wipes and weatherstripping.

It's not to say that replacing the motor and cleaning and lubing the track won't fix your problem. It might but again it might not.

Removing the regulator is the only way to replace the motor and to clean and lube the ribbon track.

Remove the door panel. Lower or raise the window so you can see through the holes in the aluminum door panel the 10mm nuts that hold the window glass to the regulator. You'll know you're in the right location because you can use a ratchet with an extension and a 10mm socket to reach throught the aluminum door panel to the nuts. You don't have to remove the nuts right now. Remove all the 7mm nuts holding the aluminum inner panel to the door. Along the bottom of the aluminum door panel the wiring harness is attached to the panel with plastic clips. Push all the clips along the bottom of the panel through the panel. This will let you move the aluminum panel up or down in order to pull it out of the door and swing it out of the way without removing all the linkage and remaining wiring. Now you can unbolt the glass from the regulator. Do this carefully while holding the glass in the regulator, you don't want it to slip out of the regulator and fall to the bottom of the door and break. Once all the nuts are removed you can slip it off the regulator and let it rest in the bottom of the door. I've found it easier to remove the glass from the door but that varies from car to car. Remove the door weatherstrip at the top of the door at the front and rear of the door. This lets the glass slip through the slot at the top of the door. Remove the felt covered guides at the top of the door too. There is a large plastic **** at the front edge of the window. If you try to remove the glass the **** will hit the top of the door because there isn't a slot in it to let it pass through. However. there is a spot on the top of the door that if you cut out the square piece that is outlined the **** will pass through the top of the door. I guess you could try to remove the **** but I've found that cutting the notch out is easer. Once you remove the glass from the door you can remove the regulator. Follow the wiring to the regulator and unplug the connector. You have to push on the middle tang of the connector in order for it to unplug from the motor. Remove the bolts that hold the regulator to the door. There's some at the top of the door, the bottom of the door, and on the inside door panel. You might be able to remove the regulator through the large opening in the door. If you need to, plug the connector back in to lower the regulator to the lowest position. This might make it easier to remove the regulator from the door. It's been awhile but I don't think you have to remove the speaker from the door. The speaker is attached with screws and a white adhesive sealant which may require some prying to remove. Just be careful not to break the corner tabs that attach the speaker to the door. Once you remove the regulator you can clean the track with a solvent and relube it. Also you be able to see how to remove the motor from the regulator.

The other option at this point is to install the later regulators. They look different because they don't use ribbons. They bolt right in with a small mod of drilling another hole or two at the bottom of the door. Also, the RH door wiring has to be reversed otherwise up is down and down is up at the window switch. You can find used late model regulators on Ebay too at a reasonable price. Good luck.

Art

 

Sounds like a big job. Thanks for the help!

 

I upgraded both of my windows to the Scissor type, much nicer and faster, more sturdy etc.

 

did you have any problems shutting the door after installing the weather stripping? the pasenger side is fine but the drivers door is a struggle to shut even with the window down?

 

You need to adjust the window

There are adjustments on the door, one is an adjustable Hook shaped part that pulls the window toward the weather strip, if this is not adjusted correctly, it will make the window lean toward the car too much and force the window back away from the car.

 

I would look into upgrading to the newer style as others have mentioned, and it will need to be re-adjusted especially after WS replacement.

 

I had trouble shutting my drivers side door after the weather stripping. It was a simple fix and adjustment of the hook. Does anyone know of a website that sells the motor I should go with at a reasonable price?

 

As mentioned, a Chevy S10 motor will work in the Vette. The links show the same part number for both. This is just an example, just make sure you're ordering the correct side etc. I don't see why you can't just pick one up at the local parts store considering how cheap they are. Online ordering requires shipping etc. which just adds more to the cost. If you're really strapped, go down to the Pick N Pull and grab one from there. You're buying a used motor so you may be in the same position you were in before you started, so be aware.
http://www2.partstrain.com/v5/produc...294966745+9328
http://www2.partstrain.com/v5/produc...294966744+9328

Art

 

I did a big blooper when I installed the new rear door weatherstripping. I did not push the back edge of the weatherstripping into the small metal retaining groove and the windows would no go all the way up. The whole thing drove me nuts until I realized what I had done. The rubber caused too much friction on the door glass when trying to power it up.

Duh, again.

Good luck

 

Try this first before you spend too much and a lot of aggravation.On the top of the door after you have removed the interior panel you will see three or four felt covered rubber bumpers that sit in elongated holes and can be adjusted in and out.Try moving them outwards with the window down and see if it makes any difference.If they are shot you can get them from Ecklers.

 

91 coupe - window up and probing switched power to regulator points to a bad motor. The first step in the manual for removing the door panel is
"run the window all the way down". Can the panel be removed without damaging half the crap inside? And is this motor still available?

 

My '95 window was stuck in the up position--good thing I didn't have a manual when I replaced my motor.

It can all be done, just move slowly and be prepared to take every freaking thing apart -- it's a good bonding experience with your door's innards.

Also be prepared to utter a sentence such as "What genius head-up-his-**** engineer designed this thing with rivets instead of removable fasteners?"

 

Thanks, I think I'll take the passenger's side panel off just to get the hang of it - The window on that side goes up and down yet. I've seen Gordon Killibrew take one apart and I'm pretty sure he had the window down first.