consists of PBM 43/40 cast steel stroker crank with

-silv-o-lite hypereutectic pistons (.030 over)
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/claimer....etails&P_id=14

-Melling high volume oil pump -complete gasket set, including Felpro head gasket set, with frost plugs. -Hastings ring set -rod, main and cam bearings

-PBM fordged 5.7 steel rods, with high strength rod bolts, pressed fit. -

-For the top end I have decided on 64cc sportsman II heads. The 200cc castings were fit with stainless one-piece valves (2.020" and 1.600") and given a 3 angle competition valve job.

--They were then given a complete port and polish on both intakes and exhausts...ports, bowls, and chambers. The intake runners are now approximately 210cc's.

--New Comp Cams #987 1.43" double springs, steel retainers, and hardened locks were installed along with Comp Cams #4808 5/16" guideplates, and Comp Cams #4505 3/8" rocker studs. Finally, VTO Ultimate Duty fluoropolymer seals were attached to the machined valve guides. The springs are rated at .600" lift which will handle a big flat tappet or small roller cam. They will have 1.5 aluminum full roller rocker arms.

-- For the intake system I went with the Holley Stealth Ram with a 58mm throttle bodie also produced by holley.

--My cam choice for this build landed on comp cams CS XR258HR-12 grind hydraulic roller cam
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...8HR-10_001.asp

So any thought on my build so far would be great. Oh and don't worry I already know you think I should have bought forged pistons.

 

i would go with a much bigger cam if i were you..

 

With that size head and the CI you could defintely use more cam in that, seems a little smallish. (Ok, its downright puny, too small!) Not being critical but youre leavgin a whole lot on the table where you can get plenty more power and still keep it very driveable.

 

ok then cam suggestions?

 

how about this cam
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=1&N=700+150+

 

yep, that is much better and on a good starting point.
but order the cam in a small base circle and withh 112 degrees lobe seperation !
Part #08-000-8,
serial # m 0007-07
grind # cs 3016/3037
cheers
shae

 

Why small base circle?
Then tend to have failures

 

well the tech guy @ comp cams reccomended a small base cam as i said i was building a stroker motor!
i thought it must of been some thing to do with stroker crank!!
so why arent small base circle cams any good then ?
cheers
shae

 

If you buy the right rods you can run an off the shelf cam. I am running Eagle 6" rods with a COMP XFI 467 cam....no problem. The rods are designed to run in a stroker without hitting the cam.

 

The reduced base circle cams are weakened by having smaller in diameter base. Hence the snapped cam I posted above.

 

ok then,here goes again guys.
another cam shaft return back to them!
i hope they will return this cam ok,hasnt been used or installed yet !!
this time no small base circle then!
is then 230 int
236 exh duration @ .50 " with 280 int and 288 exh advanced duration with 112 lobe sep still ok to re order in ?
or should i go some thing a little larger with my engine combo you guys all know about ???
cheers
shae

 

"this time no small base circle then!"
,
What rods you running.Some clear stock hi lift cams and some don't.
Generally the good H beams with 12 point bolts clear , the I beams sometimes need the bolts grinding for clearance.

Scat H beams clear my .375 lobe std base cam (.600 w 1.6"s ) with plenty of clearance.

 

I've had a came just like that. Kinda lumpy in a 350.
Scott

 

hi rod,
i ordered the 3D esp eagle feather weight 6" forged H beam 4340 rods.
they come standard with arp rod bolts!
i think they are 12 point bolts!
cheers
shae

 

I avoid the cast iron small base circle cams. If I need a smaller base circle, I usually go billet with a pressed on rear iron gear.

 

I remember reading these have had a lot of failures lately.

 

Melling makes a "select" HD pump thats abotu another $60 or so depending on where you get it. I thought it was a pretty decent looking piece.