383 stroker boost question
i have a 87 l98, want to replace with a zz383 crate with a forged bottom end. HP with carb is rated at 425 hp 460 tq. I dont know if i want to run a carb or if i save my $$$$$ maybe a Holley Stealth Ram. Could the stock TPI work if the ecu is re-chipped? Compression is at 9.7:1.
how much turbo boost could this motor take? Should i put larger heads on to lower comp more? I was planning on a single 67mm or maybe the 76mm turbo sizes.
any ideas, suggestions, comments or whatever is appreciated
thanks
420
Last edited by heydudebaked420; Dec 27, 2007 at 11:42 PM.





http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...est/index.html

EDIT
More on the engine, low compression cast pistons.
This 383 is NOT like most 383's, it's got a stock bore and a longer stroke
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...4&autoview=sku
Small block package big block power.
These all-new GM Performance Parts ZZ383 crate engines offer big block performance with a small block price tag. With the GM Performance Parts "Fast Burn Heads" on a 383 c.i.d., this combo offers approximately 9.1:1 compression with 425 hp at 5,400 rpm and 449 ft./lbs. of torque at 4,500 rpm. These blocks have 4-bolt mains with 1-piece rear main seals, forged steel externally balanced crankshafts, 5.7 in. powdered metal connecting rods, hypereutectic flat top pistons with offset pins. Billet steel hydraulic roller camshafts are install with .509 in. intake lift, .528 in. exhaust lift, and duration at .050 in. for intake is 222 and 230 for exhaust with a lobe centerline of 112 degrees. Aluminum full roller self-aligning rocker arms are used with 1.5:1 ratios. Heads are GM Performance Parts "Fast Burn" heads with 62cc combustion chambers, 210cc intake runner volume "Fast Burn" combustion chambers with 2.00 in. lightweight hollow stem intake valves and 1.55 in. sodium filled exhaust valves. LT4 Corvette valve springs and lightweight retainers are used. These heads have "D" shaped exhaust ports and have dual bolt pattern intake manifold and valve cover configurations. Cast iron long leg, standard "V" belt rotation water pumps with 1979-86 power steering pump boss. Addition items that are included with these crate engines are 8 in. harmonic balancers, 12 3/4 in. automatic flexplates, 4 quart oil pans with windage trays, painted valve covers with oil cap, grommets, provisions for PCV and breathers. Composite front timing covers, spark plugs, engine oil dipstick and tube passenger side location. Brass freeze plugs, fuel pump block plates and engine lift taps for an easy install.
Last edited by BrianCunningham; Dec 28, 2007 at 12:08 PM.
To start with the ZZ383 does not even have a completely forged bottom end. It uses PM rods and cast hyperutectic pistons. Quite contrary to their claims, there is nothing "Heavy Duty" about PM rods. Past 450hp Normally Aspriated they are marginal. I woun't risk it in a boosted application. Espc with a 1.5 stroke to rod ratio (which is good for a blower but the through bolt/nut system in these rods just isn't strong enough IMO). Lets not even discuss at great length hyper pistons and boost. Any hint of detonation and your motor is going to be junk. Personally I wouldn't run 1psi on it. However with a perfect tune and proper octane it would maybe survive 6-8psi depending on how long it was held under boost - but eventually it would break a rod or close up a ring gap and pop the top off a piston.
Normally aspriated the ZZ383 would be a good match for an earlier L98 Corvette (kinda expensive thou IMO) It would run with the stock ECU but it would have to be re-tuned. The Super Ram, modified Stealth Ram or a Mini Ram/converted LT1 intake would all work well on it. The stock TPI intake would choke it to death beyond 4000rpm. Going back to Holley is like stepping back in time 30yrs technology wise. Not to mention the emissions and inspection problems. Sure I run them on my race car (2 C&S modified Holley 4500's actually) but I sure prefer the ease of FI on my daily driver 92 LT1, all I have to do is turn the key and it starts and runs perfectly every time.
If you really want to make the kind of HP a 76mm turbo is capable of prouducing (close to or over 700HP) you are going to need a real engine from a real engine builder. For $5300 you could get a good start on a much more suitable engine combination from one of them.
good luck
Will
is there a formula or is it just "a feel" thing and wait and see what happens?
(i hope not the latter)thanks again ppl!!!!!
However a formula to determine when any given engine, run under any given set of circumstances will fly apart?? That is streching it a bit IMO. Even for the bounds of all the internet experts out there.
Actually there is one and it's called real experience. First thing you need to do is determine precisley your goals for the car and engine. If thats maxing out a 60mm or 76mm turbo or running bottom 6's in the quarter then fine that is an easy enough task. Next find your self an engine builder/chassie builder, moped builder or what ever capable of doing what your goals are. Not some internet clown with a degree in BS from XXXXForum either, a real guy that can back up his opinion with actual experience, ie has actual running 60mm,76mm turbo motors or bottom 6 sec 1/4 mile cars ect. Then pay that man.
mission accomplished
Will






