C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

EM Long Tube Headers

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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 05:09 PM
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Default EM Long Tube Headers

Hi, I'm looking at fitting EM LT's on my '94 LT1 and wanted to hear from anyone else who's got them how they get on with emmissions?

As I've heard that with the LT's this deletes the cat's and makes passing emmision tests a problem?

Is this true?


Thanks
Mark
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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I'm running EM longtubes with Dynatech PowerCats slip fit on the collectors. My car passes Missouri's emissions testing.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 07:21 AM
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I believe EM sell the a connecting pipe with cats installed. You can also buy the pipe without the cats.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 11:01 AM
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I have the EM longtubes with their extensions and cats. Passes AZ emissions.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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I have Exotic Muscle long tubes with Random Technology 3 inch cats that slip fit over the collector and clamped with a band clamp. Then 3 inch exhaust with a x pipe welded to the cats. The only challege I've had is a slight ticking exhaust leak at the cats where the band clamps are. I've learned to live with it and it's become a lot less noticeable with the hotcam installed since the valvetrain is noisier.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
I'm running EM longtubes with Dynatech PowerCats slip fit on the collectors. My car passes Missouri's emissions testing.
I run the same setup and passed KY emissions (when we used to have it).
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 04:44 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

Can anyone recommend a website where I can look at pricing up a set of Dynatech Powercats?
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 12:15 PM
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I picked up my PowerCats from Summitt Racing or Jegs.

Here is a comparable set of cats for an even a better deal than the Dynatechs. If you are going to use the slip-fit method you'll need the 3" version.

http://flowmonster.com/mm5/merchant...._Code=metallic
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by PAINTER MAN
I believe EM sell the a connecting pipe with cats installed. You can also buy the pipe without the cats.
It may help if everyone knew what state your emissions testing is in.

Originally Posted by jonecap
The only challege I've had is a slight ticking exhaust leak at the cats where the band clamps are.
I had a ticking at the exhaust flanges for a long time. I tightened down the Stage 8 bolts and installed the bolt clamps. It's been quiet since. Luckily I haven't had any ticking from the band clamps. The headers do rest on the convertible x-brace and rattle a bit from time to time. I'm still looking for a solution for that one. I may add some thick rubber between the pipe and x-brace to see if that stops the rattle. I thought about lowering the x-brace with some washers but I'm worries about loosening up the bracing effect. I love the headers though.

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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rickreeves1
I may add some thick rubber between the pipe and x-brace
to see if that stops the rattle.
This is not recommended due to the heat that would be radiated
to whatever rubber material is used.

Also keep in mind that heat causes significant growth in the exhaust
system, not just in dia but in length, too. My vote is that anything
that inhibits the freedom of the exhaust to expand when it is hot is
likely to impart stress that may lead to premature cracks.

As for spacing the X-brace. Instead of using flat washers, consider
fabricating shims from sheet or plate stock that closely approximate
the shape of the contact surface of the OEM mounting points. This
increases the clamping area and helps the bolts continue to work in
tension rather than in shear.

.
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Slalom4me
This is not recommended due to the heat that would be radiated
to whatever rubber material is used.

Also keep in mind that heat causes significant growth in the exhaust
system, not just in dia but in length, too. My vote is that anything
that inhibits the freedom of the exhaust to expand when it is hot is
likely to impart stress that may lead to premature cracks.

As for spacing the X-brace. Instead of using flat washers, consider
fabricating shims from sheet or plate stock that closely approximate
the shape of the contact surface of the OEM mounting points. This
increases the clamping area and helps the bolts continue to work in
tension rather than in shear.

.
I thought about the heat thing. It's close to the center of the car where the pipe is resting on the x-brace. I'm not sure what the temps get up to in that area. I thought maybe there was some material that could handle it. I didn't want to wrap the pipe just sandwich something between it and the x-brace that it sits on. I figured the worse that could happen is it would melt or deform as long as it's non-flammable. I also tried to think of some ways to lower it. Spacers, washers, shims, etc.. The rear attachment point has some factory spacers that are already about a 3/4" thick. It probably would not take too much more to clear the pipes. The brace is already low and I was planning on lowering the car a tad more in the future. The factory x-brace has a weird grooved shape to it. I have a bunch pictures I recently took. I will post them up in a new thread when I get to them later this evening. Sorry, don't mean to hijack this one.

Thanks
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 06:22 PM
  #12  
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Under some conditions, the temperature of the exhaust under
the passenger compartment can become hot enough to scorch and
even ignite the tunnel/floor.

My vote is that conventional rubber-like materials are going
to suffer by or beyond temperatures of 300ºF. If there was
some air space between the heat source and the rubber object,
this would help but direct contact would result in short life.

Some silicones have better heat resistance. The popular silicon
oven mitt claims to protect to 500ºF.

However, best results would be realized with the heat-resistant
material sold by companies like Thermo-Tec and DEI. Fiberfax
makes ceramic fiber insulation that is widely used for kilns,
chimneys and various industrial applications.

FWIW, 2-1/2" collectors work well with an R-D brace on an
'89 coupe.

Originally Posted by rickreeves1
The factory x-brace has a weird grooved shape to it.
The x-brace is fabricated from steel strip that is formed into
a shape intended to provide a balance of lightness and
longtitudinal stiffness. Take a long narrow strip of cardboard
and check how it flexes, then form it into a shape similar to
the legs of the x-brace. The formed version will be stiffer.

As for hijacking - you are commenting about EM headers on
an LT1, maybe the OP has a convertible, too?

Edit to change spelling to Thermo-Tec from ThermoTech

.

Last edited by Slalom4me; Jan 3, 2008 at 08:09 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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Rick, I have the same problem as you do. I talked to Trevor down at EM, and he said that he justs sticks a prybar between the x-brace and the exhaust and resets it. I'm a little leary because it sounds like a very temporary fix.
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