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The belt runs under the water pump pulley and up over the smog pump eliminator pulley, across to the alt, down to the p/s pulley and back to the crank.
Buy the recharge kit from the auto parts store (about $40 to convert from R12) Check and see what a vacuum pump rents for and you're done. Although you said your AC went out last summer, so you may have another problem.
I would refill with R12 as the 134 will make the compressor work harder due to higher pressure needed with the 134. If it kills the compressor, then it will cost way more more than the R12 would have been in the first place. R134 is also thinner than R12 and you might find a new leak.
It's pretty much individual choice on refrigerant, but nearly everyone has converted to 134. Almost nobody has had any problems. It does tend to leak out of old hoses (up to 12oz a year, usually about 2oz.) and doesn't work as well in pre-80 cars (not enough air flow). On C4's, it works great, haven't had any problems, and I've converted LOTS of them over the past 10 or so years. The other advantages for do it yourselfers besides $7 vs $70/can is anybody can buy it. Just by the kit and follow instructions. Interesting nobody is screaming about the hole in the ozone anymore. Getting rid of R12 must have cured the problem!
The belt runs under the water pump pulley and up over the smog pump eliminator pulley, across to the alt, down to the p/s pulley and back to the crank.
Looking at a L98 on a stand, I see what you did. Never thought of that. So the belt has enough contact with the water pump pully that it doesn't slip and drives it ok?
How do you get the belt on/off without a tensioner?
-- Joe
Last edited by anesthes; Jan 18, 2008 at 07:15 AM.
...So the belt has enough contact with the water pump pully that it doesn't slip and drives it ok?
How do you get the belt on/off without a tensioner?
-- Joe
Yes, definitely enough contact. No slip. Drives like normal.
Tension is adjusted at the top alternator bolt.
Like the old 70's cars where you had to use a pry bar .
Yes, definitely enough contact. No slip. Drives like normal.
Tension is adjusted at the top alternator bolt.
Like the old 70's cars where you had to use a pry bar .
Oh, is that a function of the smog delete pully? Like you can adjust the distance and effectively move the alternator left and right?
Really it's more of a "pivot" action.
The smog pump delete pulley stays in a fixed location however.
The top alt bolt hole is elongated, and that is where I can slack the belt.
Really it's more of a "pivot" action.
The smog pump delete pulley stays in a fixed location however.
The top alt bolt hole is elongated, and that is where I can slack the belt.
Hrmm.. Sounds pissah. I'll have to look into a smog delete setup, or just make my own out of some alum stock.