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My 86 normally idles around 600 rpm. I get a slight miss while sitting at a red light and it just drives me nuts. Have new plugs, clean injectors and all the obvious stuff. I switched from Exxon Premium to Shell Premium gas which seemed to help a little. I think Shell puts out a better gasoline. More expensive, but much better. Does anyone have any ideas as to how I can smooth out and improve the idle? Any ideas on timing? Thanks.
I have no idea, mine does the exact same thing and always has since I bought it. Mine idles around 750 though. Could be caused by a number of small things, so its hard to say. I wouldnt waste the money replacing parts to figure it out though. You could hook it up to a scan tool and see if you find anything there.
I had a miss at idle in mine and finally went away after I changed the ign wires, I had checked them and they looked good but one must have had an internal leak. It was driving me crazy it would fluctuate between 600-700 rpm at idle. The good news is while looking for my problem I replaced a lot of other things, re: vacuum hoses, IAC, cleaned t-body and reset per specs, dist cap & rotor, plugs and wires so now it runs really good.
Seems to me 600 is a little too slow of an idle anyway. Try cranking the idle speed up to 700-750 and see if its better.
I thought 600 was a little too slow also but the ECM controls that. It idles better if I pedal it up to about 700 but I've been told there's no way to adjust it on an '86.
I know yours is an 86, but my 94 was doing the same thing. I did a complete tune up including a new opti and it was still there. I got the computer tuned by pcm4less and it made a huge improvement.
First, try a can of SeaFoam, it'll smoke like heck for a few minutes, but really blows out the carbon. I haven't followed the directions for years, I put half can in the gas tank, half through the brake booster vac. line.
You can ohm test the plug wires, but twist them a little while checking, 5000 ohms per foot, but remember they're different lengths, so just compensate.
Try a MSD 6A (or 6AL).. that has help a few of my other cars as will as helping the upper RPM range too.
MSD's are a good idea when increased compression is a factor.(NOS, Superchargers, piston and head mods etc) If your HEI system is in tip top shape with good parts and no out of spec shaft/gear play, it will fire a motor like yours to well over 6000 rpms with no problems. Don't "Band aid" a problem that should be fixed.
Idle speed is burned into the Chip. Specs for Actual are 100 +/- rpms from Targeted in Park/Neutral; 50 +/- rpms in Drive. You don't know if it's right/wrong unless you scan it. If you don't have a scanner consider buying one or go over to Scan and Tune to learn how you can use a Laptop with some free software (you'll have to buy a cable).
You can try to isolate a miss by cutting some 1/4 inch vacuum hose into 8 1/2 inch pieces and then inserting a piece between each plug wire and the Distributor Tower. Touch each piece of hose with a grounded Test Light and that will kill the cylinder. Note the rpm drop on your hand held Tach or Scanner. Any that don't drop the same is the problem.
Check compression if you haven't all ready done so.
Don't use sea foam crap,causes more harm than good.
Pull the IAC valve and clean it out with brake cleaner or easy start.
Clean out it's housing in the TB the same way.Set timing 6 degrees before,remembering to disconnect the EST wire.
Set the TPS to .54 volts.
With ignition ON and engine not running jump terminals A&B in the ALDL.
This will close the IAC and block the idle air passage.
Remove the 4 pin connector from the IAC then remove the shorting clip in the ALDL.
Start engine and set idle with the throttle stop to give 500 rpm.
Turn off ignition and reconnect the IAC connector.
Idle should settle to 700/800 after 30 seconds or so.
All this is assuming plugs,wires,cap,ignition module and ALL vacuum lines are in good condition.Anything over 35 thou plug gap can cause a bad idle as well so check that as well.
Don't use sea foam crap,causes more harm than good.
Pull the IAC valve and clean it out with brake cleaner or easy start.
Clean out it's housing in the TB the same way.Set timing 6 degrees before,remembering to disconnect the EST wire.
Set the TPS to .54 volts.
With ignition ON and engine not running jump terminals A&B in the ALDL.
This will close the IAC and block the idle air passage.
Remove the 4 pin connector from the IAC then remove the shorting clip in the ALDL.
Start engine and set idle with the throttle stop to give 500 rpm.
Turn off ignition and reconnect the IAC connector.
Idle should settle to 700/800 after 30 seconds or so.
All this is assuming plugs,wires,cap,ignition module and ALL vacuum lines are in good condition.Anything over 35 thou plug gap can cause a bad idle as well so check that as well.
Don't use sea foam crap,causes more harm than good.
Pull the IAC valve and clean it out with brake cleaner or easy start.
Clean out it's housing in the TB the same way.Set timing 6 degrees before,remembering to disconnect the EST wire.
Set the TPS to .54 volts.
With ignition ON and engine not running jump terminals A&B in the ALDL.
This will close the IAC and block the idle air passage.
Remove the 4 pin connector from the IAC then remove the shorting clip in the ALDL.
Start engine and set idle with the throttle stop to give 500 rpm.
Turn off ignition and reconnect the IAC connector.
Idle should settle to 700/800 after 30 seconds or so.
All this is assuming plugs,wires,cap,ignition module and ALL vacuum lines are in good condition.Anything over 35 thou plug gap can cause a bad idle as well so check that as well.
Good tips: you can also adjust the TPS's position all the way up to .63 volts --which will slightly increase in the engine's idle rpm too. In normal conditions my car idles around 600; and 500 when engine is really hot (my TPS sensor is set @ .61 -- my car runs better at this setting).
Don't use seafoam???? Really, there have been more posts praising this product than any I can remember! I've been using it in all my cars and boats for over 10 years, with fantastic results.
Don't use seafoam???? Really, there have been more posts praising this product than any I can remember! I've been using it in all my cars and boats for over 10 years, with fantastic results.
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