DRM vs. EM Coilovers
07-16-2008, 03:11 PM
#21
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
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Have you seen my coilover thread?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1833622&page=9
For not a lot more you can get Penske coilovers, and then your in a different league.
It's a world class shock and you can reuild these yourself.
You can also use narrower springs since it has a slimmer body.
I've got QA1's on the car now. They're really not ideal as far as valving is concerned.
Gary Hoffman of hardbarusa.com has come up with this neat lower mounts, that are way beafier than the stock cantilevered bolt.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1833622&page=9
For not a lot more you can get Penske coilovers, and then your in a different league.
It's a world class shock and you can reuild these yourself.
You can also use narrower springs since it has a slimmer body.
I've got QA1's on the car now. They're really not ideal as far as valving is concerned.
Gary Hoffman of hardbarusa.com has come up with this neat lower mounts, that are way beafier than the stock cantilevered bolt.
07-16-2008, 06:25 PM
#22
Hi ekess744,
To my knowledge they parts should be the same...
If you look at your front shocks towers should be 4 inches wide, ( think some of the earlier models were actually narrower. You will need to pry them out a touch.
The front shocks the top should be a stud, bottom a T-Bar. On the rear, the bottoms should be the standard through hole ( which is what the shock has), on the 96 the top is a stud, if i recall on the 88's the rear top is a through hole ( which is how the shock comes) which would mean you do no need the 2 additional stud adapters for the rear.
Hope this helps!
Feel free to PM me if you have further questions.
MO
To my knowledge they parts should be the same...
If you look at your front shocks towers should be 4 inches wide, ( think some of the earlier models were actually narrower. You will need to pry them out a touch.
The front shocks the top should be a stud, bottom a T-Bar. On the rear, the bottoms should be the standard through hole ( which is what the shock has), on the 96 the top is a stud, if i recall on the 88's the rear top is a through hole ( which is how the shock comes) which would mean you do no need the 2 additional stud adapters for the rear.
Hope this helps!
Feel free to PM me if you have further questions.
MO
07-17-2008, 01:35 AM
#23
Melting Slicks
I do not think so... the travel of the shock to the control arms, is 3 : 1
You may want to measure your shock length as they are in the car now just to be sure... if you drop the car say 1.5 it translates to only .5 on the shock
so the wheel travel is 3inches for 1 inch of travel of the shock.
MO
You may want to measure your shock length as they are in the car now just to be sure... if you drop the car say 1.5 it translates to only .5 on the shock
so the wheel travel is 3inches for 1 inch of travel of the shock.
MO
Last edited by Mo_Bandy; 07-17-2008 at 01:45 AM.
07-17-2008, 10:15 AM
#24
Former Vendor
Hey guys sorry for the late reply. We have never done any business with EM with our suspension packages. We have been building coilover C4 since about 89. We don't have a package for the early cars, sorry guys. The mounts a total pain and we had some failures under extreme conditions with just the early cars. So we only offer our kits for the 89-08 cars.
995 for the coilover hardware for your Bilstein shocks
1695 for the above with Valved Bilstein shocks
1995 for the above two with bushings and couple other cool parts!
We as you guys know raced the hell out of these cars. We know them very well due to the fact that we have built over 35 C4 racecars. We won World Challenge championships on the same systems as we are still selling today!!!
Bilstein is one of the best shock companies in the world. For the money there is nothing that even comes close. They have out performed shocks that cost 5 times as much. We have almost 20 years running them with great results, all across the world. Cars in North-South America, Asia, Europe, Japan, Africa, Down under, Greenland, and other places in the world are running our coilovers. Going to the corner store, car shows, drive ins, drag racing, auto-x, HPDEs, track days, club racing, drift, pro racing, we even had Bilsteins on our car that we built for LeMans.
QA1 is a local company to our shop, I don't like talking bad about any company. They are a great shock for the right application. Any type of high preformance driving with a 2800+ pound car is not the right application.
Thanks
Randy
www.dougrippie.com
995 for the coilover hardware for your Bilstein shocks
1695 for the above with Valved Bilstein shocks
1995 for the above two with bushings and couple other cool parts!
We as you guys know raced the hell out of these cars. We know them very well due to the fact that we have built over 35 C4 racecars. We won World Challenge championships on the same systems as we are still selling today!!!
Bilstein is one of the best shock companies in the world. For the money there is nothing that even comes close. They have out performed shocks that cost 5 times as much. We have almost 20 years running them with great results, all across the world. Cars in North-South America, Asia, Europe, Japan, Africa, Down under, Greenland, and other places in the world are running our coilovers. Going to the corner store, car shows, drive ins, drag racing, auto-x, HPDEs, track days, club racing, drift, pro racing, we even had Bilsteins on our car that we built for LeMans.
QA1 is a local company to our shop, I don't like talking bad about any company. They are a great shock for the right application. Any type of high preformance driving with a 2800+ pound car is not the right application.
Thanks
Randy
www.dougrippie.com
07-17-2008, 09:57 PM
#25
Instructor
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Pittsburgh Penna.
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I went with QA1's like Mo and do search for LD85. He also went this route. The only benefit to the coilovers you mentioned is the diameter of the coil, QA1's are larger. This is what causes a lot of the fabrication that is done when you go with QA1's. Also if you go the QA1 route and depending on your fabrication skills you can make up mounts so you don't have to usse the t-bar Mo mentions. I ended up cutting off my front shok mounts and fabricating new ones. The other typical problem with QA1's is interference at the rear with the bolt for the lower dog bone. The bottom line is, if you can do welding and fabrication, QA1's offer a good deal. If not go with one of the ones you mentioned that are designed for your car.
07-18-2008, 12:16 AM
#26
I went with QA1's like Mo and do search for LD85. He also went this route. The only benefit to the coilovers you mentioned is the diameter of the coil, QA1's are larger. This is what causes a lot of the fabrication that is done when you go with QA1's. Also if you go the QA1 route and depending on your fabrication skills you can make up mounts so you don't have to usse the t-bar Mo mentions. I ended up cutting off my front shok mounts and fabricating new ones. The other typical problem with QA1's is interference at the rear with the bolt for the lower dog bone. The bottom line is, if you can do welding and fabrication, QA1's offer a good deal. If not go with one of the ones you mentioned that are designed for your car.
MO, can you post a picture of your shock tower?
Im curious how much you modded it
07-18-2008, 11:33 AM
#27
Melting Slicks
Really the only mod is bending out the top of the shock tower to clear the shock.
I might add that I have been running this system as a daily-driver for over 6 years, with some "high-spirited " driving as well.
I added another mount on the website which could be used in place of the stud mount. They use them on the rear shocks of the Mustangs which allows you to use the through bolt. You would probably need to go with a 1 inch shorter shock. I have not got around to "actually" doing this mod. But it certainly would beef up how the shock mounts at the top, the tee bar is similar to stock on the bottom except it is beefier.
I might add that I have been running this system as a daily-driver for over 6 years, with some "high-spirited " driving as well.
I added another mount on the website which could be used in place of the stud mount. They use them on the rear shocks of the Mustangs which allows you to use the through bolt. You would probably need to go with a 1 inch shorter shock. I have not got around to "actually" doing this mod. But it certainly would beef up how the shock mounts at the top, the tee bar is similar to stock on the bottom except it is beefier.
Last edited by Mo_Bandy; 07-18-2008 at 11:46 AM.
