I see a few different kits. Anyone have these? My other thought was to order the parts seperately and put together my own kit like Mo and some others have done. My 95 is a daily driven convertible with worn out shocks. It see's the drag strip a few times a year with an occasional road course run. When something wears out I like to upgrade. I would like the best handling I can get on a budget. I would like to get more grip on turns. Wet, dry, track, street, all around, etc.. Opinions please?

Exotic Muscle
Street Performance C2010 for $975.95


Exotic Muscle
Race setup C2089 for $1425.95


DRM
C4 CoilOver Suspension Kit for $1695


DRM
C4 Corvette XtraGrip Suspension kit for $1995

 

I don't know for sure, but was of the impression EM simply sold the DRM coilovers? Do those EM ones actually include shocks or are they just pictured "installed"?

 

Does anyone have the EM coilovers?

 

The EM setup is NOT the DRM units. EM has sourced and designed them on their own. I've seen them installed on quite a few cars because I've been in the EM garage quite a few times. Everyone I talk to that has them loves them...but I don't have much first-hand experience driving them.

 

Hi Rick,

if you decide to go the QA1 route let me know i'll be happy to help you through the process.

Regards,

MO

 

Thanks! I've seen your website, nice setup.

What is the total cost on the QA1 setup? My budget is probably right around 1k. Are there narrower coilovers that require less cutting and modifications? How do the QA1's compare to the Bilsteins?

 

Rick - I'd save your money.

For street and occasional track use you'll waste your money on coil overs.

I'd get a nice set of custom valved Bilstein shocks and upgrade your leaf springs if you want better handling. The inherant advantage in coil overs is the ability to adjust and corner weight the car before each race. In addition, one can quickly change front and rear spring rates for different tracks. If you're not planning to do this then there's little point...they're just like the camber brace - easy to change and you can feel like your car is modified, even if it doesn't get you any real benefit.

They're heavier than the stock setup, as well...

 

You forgot slam it and make it look really cool!!!

 

wow both cost way to much money, you could do QA1 all around fro half that price

 

I get what your saying, but I've read tons of threads where others praise the handling the coilover conversion offers, even on a mostly street car. I have time to think it over while I wait on my tax returns. It's nice to have the lowering/raising capability too. Question- Would an alignment be necessary every time you lower or raise it, say an inch or so. How much heavier are the coilovers? Do they handle much better an rough roads and reduce bump steer like others have reported?


I was looking more at the street performance setup from EM. DRM would probably match a similar setup/price. How much for a QA1 setup all around? I've seen Mo's site. I have no problem going this route if the hardware is just as good. Single adjustments on the shocks would be nice too. I've read a few posts in the past on narrower springs that fit better. I think QA1's have a 2.5" diameter and require more modification. Does QA1 make any that will fit better?

 

I haven't come across the complaint here, but other boards seem to have issues with QA-1's blowing out. But that could easily be an issue of selecting the wrong part for a custom set up.

Yes, when you raise and lower the car you should get an alignment.

 

I made the following in Excel. Thanks to Mo's list. Does everything look correct? Is that about what the QA1 conversion costs before shipping?

 

QA1's can be done for less BUT you need to know what you want and be prepared to do "the buy"! You should be able to likely do this package for close to 20% less. You need to find a chassis fabricator who is a QA1/Carrera dealer and there are many "everywhere"!
The dealer can likely have the package drop shipped "complete" but the material in Mo's "shopping list" is pretty popular. If you catch a fabricator ready to do a larger order and yours makes shipping or discount levels you might save a bit more.
If you've got your list prepared and are "ready to buy" stop by the shop with your "list" and "cash"!


I hope to have mine installed by maybe end of moth.

 

I bought the EM race setup. Required relocation of the rear shock mounts on my converted 1993 setup as well as suggested relocation of the front sway bar mounts. (other small items like widening the front mounts are typical also)

My best advice - if you are going to buy a turn key vendor setup - have the vendor send you their full instructions before you buy. Telephone discussions can miss important fabrication issues.

 

Rick, I have the EM street performance set-up. I am very happy with it, but as far as rough roads, it still darts and dashes when it hits the grooves. I believe that a change in alignment would help that. I had the whole suspension upgraded so it's hard to quantify just how much effect the coil-overs themselves had. Also, I live just down the street from EM, so I had them do the installation for about $500.

 

Hi Rick ,

Everything looks good, Those spring rates are the probably the highest you want to go on the street... If you have bad roads they will jar your teeth loose. I would suggest like 375- 400 on the front and like 275's on the rear... I'm currentl running 375 / 275's with the shocks at like 4 and it rides very good.

Bad Karma, I tend to agree that it was a wrong shock they may have used, I have had these same shocks on for at least 6 years, and they are as good as the day I bought them.

381 rider, I agree if you "slam" the car some you can run into interference with the rear coils and the halfshafts, I had to move the holes in the upper mounting pieces forward about 3/4" to resolve this. I did use the EM sway bar mounts for the lower control arms. You can further optimize it by moving the swaybar forward about 7/8" either by using very heavy duty circnuts or have a plate fabricated to move the mounting points forward.

From the ground to the center of the fender lip, I'm running 26.5' in the front and 27.25" in the rear with a full tank of fuel. withe the rear spring rate it will rise about 3/4" as the tank empties.

I have thought about putting more time into this and selling kits on the side... I just never have got around to it.

Rick should you chose to go this route feel free to PM or email me. I'll be happy to help you as I have the dozens of others that went this way.

I hope thins helps

Regards,

MO

 

Which ever, I would get these new connecting ends from GHoffman.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1833622&page=6

 

The red ones pictured for the rear lower are very nice, the mounts for the front you can get from Competition Engineering or also through Summit it is a matter or preference.

Mo

 

MO,

I see that you did the coilovers on the on your 96 correct? I have an 88, would I be using different parts than the ones listed? Would there be any issues specific to the 88 that might come up? Just trying to cover everything before I drop the cash!

 

Hi ekess744,

To my knowledge they parts should be the same...

If you look at your front shocks towers should be 4 inches wide, ( think some of the earlier models were actually narrower. You will need to pry them out a touch.
The front shocks the top should be a stud, bottom a T-Bar. On the rear, the bottoms should be the standard through hole ( which is what the shock has), on the 96 the top is a stud, if i recall on the 88's the rear top is a through hole ( which is how the shock comes) which would mean you do no need the 2 additional stud adapters for the rear.

Hope this helps!
Feel free to PM me if you have further questions.

MO