C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

4+3 to ZF6?

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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 06:30 AM
  #1  
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Default 4+3 to ZF6?

My car is an '88 C4 with the 4+3. Whats needed to swap to a ZF6 transmission?
Did a search but couldnt figure out what kinda flywheel to use?
Will all the 4+3 parts work?
Read something about the flywheels being different thicknesses so what has to be done or used to make this work?
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by vettebyrd
My car is an '88 C4 with the 4+3. Whats needed to swap to a ZF6 transmission?
Did a search but couldnt figure out what kinda flywheel to use?
Will all the 4+3 parts work?
Read something about the flywheels being different thicknesses so what has to be done or used to make this work?
I'm in the middle of that right now. The short story is:

The 4+3 flywheel is about 3/8" thinner than the ZF6 flywheel.
The ZF6 replacement single-mass flywheels are the same thickness.

Some theories are out there that when swapping to the 4+3 single mass flywheel, the fork angle could cause problems. Centralcoaster performed this swap using the 4+3 flywheel, and the stock ZF6 stud without an issue.

I mocked mine up, and I agree that the stock stud might be a hair too short. It seems as it if compresses the clutches slave cylinder way too much, and as the clutch wears can cause some problems.

Then again, the suggested ZR1 stud adds 5/16" which puts the fork
pretty far away from the slave cyl rod, and only gives you about 5/8" of working area. It also could cause a clearance issue with the pressure plate, although it appears as long as the travel doesn't exceed 5/8" it should be fine. I'm told slave cyl travel is roughly 13MM (or 1/2").

In MY opinion, I think what I will end up with is the ZR1 stud, and then adding a coupling to the slave cylinder rod to get the travel within the normal operating range. I just need someone to measure the compressed distance of the rod in a STOCK OEM ZF6 setup, so I can get an idea of how much length to add to it.

-- Joe
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 09:17 AM
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I put the ZR1 stud in mine and it works great. No problems.

Last edited by 88yellow; Jan 22, 2008 at 09:19 AM.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 88yellow
I put the ZR1 stud in mine and it works great. No problems.
Where about does your clutch start grabbing, like how high off the floor?

How many miles since the conversion ?

Thanks!

-- Joe
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by anesthes
Where about does your clutch start grabbing, like how high off the floor?

How many miles since the conversion ?

Thanks!

-- Joe
It starts grabbing about 1 inch of the floor I've probably got about 20,000 miles since the conversion.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 88yellow
It starts grabbing about 1 inch of the floor I've probably got about 20,000 miles since the conversion.
Hrmm.. Sounds pretty good to me. I'm betting using a stock stud makes it grab kinda up high.

-- Joe
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by anesthes
Hrmm.. Sounds pretty good to me. I'm betting using a stock stud makes it grab kinda up high.

-- Joe
I had the stock one in there first, it never worked right. The clutch petal would come out all the way and still slip.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 88yellow
I had the stock one in there first, it never worked right. The clutch petal would come out all the way and still slip.
Because you were exceeding how much the slave can be compressed. Since you've had both you realize how much of a difference it puts on the fork. It's really close with the shorter stud.. If I were to run the shorter stud, i'd probably cut a 1/2" or so off the rod.

-- Joe
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 02:15 PM
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us ol' furts have been dealing with the pivot ball height situation since the 6o's when lakewood bellhousings/scattershields, slight different depth from oem, first came on the market...solution: lakewood's adjustable height pivot p/n 15501 ($16.95 from summit)...install the adjustable pivot, bolt on your bellhsg, slip in a temporary ''dummy'' trans input shaft (reqd to keep clutch disc centered, also positions t/o bearing) and you can SEE the clutch fork move and adjust the pivot height accordingly.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by redrose
us ol' furts have been dealing with the pivot ball height situation since the 6o's when lakewood bellhousings/scattershields, slight different depth from oem, first came on the market...solution: lakewood's adjustable height pivot p/n 15501 ($16.95 from summit)...install the adjustable pivot, bolt on your bellhsg, slip in a temporary ''dummy'' trans input shaft (reqd to keep clutch disc centered, also positions t/o bearing) and you can SEE the clutch fork move and adjust the pivot height accordingly.
Will that screw into a ZF6 bell housing though? Whats the max and min heights it will provide? No info on the summit site regarding specs.

-- Joe
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by anesthes
Will that screw into a ZF6 bell housing though? Whats the max and min heights it will provide? No info on the summit site regarding specs.

-- Joe
will NOT screw into the zf bell, will need to adapt it...don't have one ''loose'' here right now for heights but there is ''much'' adjustment available, suggest call direct to lakewood (very helpful in past)
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