Here's a good read on an LTx camshaft install.

FYI: It's from our own forum member Jim "96GS#007" Mason.
http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/hot_cam.htm

 

Wow! A lot of excellent info. I'm glad i asked the question. Perhaps I will avoid one of those big regrettables.

Thanks guys.

 

I am certain this is not true. The GM LT4 upgrade packages don't include new valves, so GM must think they will work with LT1 valves.

????????

 

Jim "96GS#007" Mason's cam swap article and pics is fantastic and this forum is the best! You will see "supporting member" under my name soon.

I did find a good cam spec comparison on a Z28 forum.
http://www.z28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58050

Based on everything you guys have told me and on Jim Mason's write up, I think it is obvious that the GM Hot Cam is the best choice for me. This is especially so since I already have the LT4 roller rockers and springs and I'm just a Sunday cruiser. I might however, take it to the strip just to see what it will do when I get it all done.

 

I did not say they dont work. Just that they do not work "well". "Well" being a realative term of my opinion. I come from the F-body world, so we are always, well, chaseing you Vette guys down. They do not come in the kit because GM does not manufacture valves. There is no more profit to be made. The springs on stock components with the LT4 cam not the HOT CAM meet the minumim GM standards. I was only stating that A much better Spring is available and should be used if money allows.

 

You need to multiply those lift #s by 1.6 to get total lift. You need to figure cam based on head flow, gears , stall and desired power range(low , middle or high). Since we here are not cam experts, means a pro head porter will better suit you in figuring out which cam to go with. If your going to heads later it might not be a good match with current cam. Hate to see you do it twice.

 

In addition to the FSM and 96GS#007's documentation of the procedure,
you might find this book to be a worthy addition to your resource
materials for the LTx engine.


Unlike most books about the SBC that focus on the 2-pc rear seal, flat
tappet blocks, this book offers relevant info to people interested in the
1-pc OEM roller tappet blocks. (Not only the LT1 & LT4 versions, but
also the L98 and L31 Vortec engines, too.)

.

 

Quite honestly, the hardest thing about changing the cam is getting the balancer off. Took me a month to get both pieces off, then a week to finish the rest. My tip would be to go slow on removing and installing the cam. Put a couple of 4" bolts in the end of the cam, twist it and pull it slowly. Be prepared to hold the cam up when it slips off the journals. When you put the new cam in, makes sure it is lubed up real good, go slow, use two hands, twist it and gently push again being prepared to hold it up as it slips throught the journal holes. If you're twisting and pushing gently, and it hangs up or it gets hard to push, then back up a bit and go forward again. I can't say enough about being care and not scratching your journal bearings. Be super clean on the gasket surfaces, contaminated surfaces are exactly why LTs leak. On the lifters, soak them, no, submerge them in oil for like a week before you put them back in. Cinch the nut down until you feel it touch the lifter (you can tell by twisting the push rod with your fingers. AS SOON AS IT TOUCHES, stop, add one half a turn more, then lock it down. When you're done, turn the engine over with a large socket wrench on the front to make sure nothing is binding.

Good luck.