How do you remove #59 in attached picture. 86-91 are holding it, but I see no way to remove it from the section down there. I need to pull it through the steering column so I can remove the steering tilt support out.

 

Wow! Bet a lot of folks will never attempt digging into steering column--unless you have to. Are you sure you need to remove this and assume you have column out of the car? You must be having tilt problems or a real loose tilt or the lower bearing is bad? Before you start the following clean off the crude off the lower shaft so things can slide easier--you may use some penetrating oil or just plain oil once to help you.

I think and I repeat I think that the upper knuckle joint w/shafts can only be removed by pulling through the top of the column but as you know you have to be able to slide the lower bearing off. Once you remove 89thru91 (doesn't metal cap retainer snap off?), 88 is a beveled/slit insert piece which you will have to drive backwards off of the bearing. Don't tear it up because I think it is plastic! Then the bearing slides off and you can then remove 86 (two small bolts).

It will all be very clear once you slide everything off. If you have already removed most of the upper tilt sections or you are planning to do this--PAY ATTENTION, DON'T BREAK THE WEIRD SPRING CLIP FOR THE LOCK MECH. And, take a picture of how it actually fits so you KNOW.

Good Luck. I think putting it back together can be more difficult than taking it apart?

 

Steve, guess you are in the Army as you have that photo of that poor critter in Iraq hole. I am retired Army and step-son was with the 4ID during that period too. He had an infantry company then. I was more of a coward than you young guys so I took my commission in the corps of engineers in my day. Great idea, went to flight school and straight to Viet Nam. Thank You for your Service.

 

The support housing and housing for the tilt pins were bad, as the pins are a harder metal and wore both housings out. You have to take part number 59 out as 62 cant come out due to the end being bigger than the hole in the support. So, take the column out, release the retainers, which is very simple, and pull out number 59. Simple. The lower bearings are fine, and dont need to come out. Puting in all back together tommorow.

 

Steve, I think I know what your objective is now. Sounds like you understand that the lower bearing is only held in place by the plastic slip joint. Once this joint is slide off the shaft, you can work the lower bearing off the shaft also. It isn't pressed on, you just need to work it free. It will slide eventually. Then, since you have all the upper housings removed--you can pull the entire shaft assembly out of the column from the top side. Sounds like you have already mastered things. If you need housing(s) the ones in my extra donor column may be good?

 

Thanks, I already have new housing and new support. I found someone who had rebuilt the pin section in the mid 90's, and this is his primary job.
If it wasnt for my aggressive driving, it would probably still be good. My machinist at work is going to fix the area where the pin goes through the housing and support, and do bushings in there. We will have plenty of time to figure that out.
But, I will get her together in the next few days, as time is short. Hopefully the steering will be straight, and it will start.
The only weird thing is the lower shaft squeeze bolt. I thought it screwed into the shaft, but it seems to just bolt into and through the side of it. Weird. Hopefully I will get that in correctly.

 

I am having the same problem. Would your machinist be willing to make more sets of bushings?? This seems to be the best solution to the problem.
Thanks,
Steve

 

My machinist rechecked things, and for durability he recommended making a little bit larger pin and make the holes the housing and support have just bigger to accommodate the larger pin. The housing and support aren't large enough to handle a bushing as it would make the hole too big, weakening them both.
After doing this, taking the column out of the car and paying 209 bucks for the housing and support, I would think a new housing and support is simpler, as you have to find a competent machinist and must know how tight a fit the new pin must be.
I can do this job in a few hours now. Very easy. But I learned the hard way, and without the write up from the domesticmisfits, I would have never been comfortable. Even with my FSM

 

Okay, the critical step in doing this job is to ensure intermediate shaft (59) with jam nut is in same position it was a beginning of job, if you remove the column from the car, which I did. Also, I replaced housing and support not just the pins, which I think most people will need to do at high mileage/age of vehicle. I fixed the column yesterday. Basically tore it down to where you can see the bearing races and upper shaft. The shaft was up to high, so I loosened jam nut, set bearing and shaft where it needed to be and voila, all is well now.

 

is the tilt assembly supose to be loose where it bolts to the column? i have tightened the bolts as tight as i could frearing i will twist them off.