C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Big Transmission Leak

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Old May 20, 2008 | 10:00 PM
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Default Big Transmission Leak

Noticed I was leaving a trail of oil in the driveway. It was trans fluid. Shut the car off and looked underneath. Did not see the source. Started the car and looked again. Now I saw trans fluid driping at an alarming rate next to my header. Upon crawling under the car, I saw my trans lines where against the header. I looks like the header finally wore though the lines. I could not pull the lines far enough away from the header to take a good look, but that's where the leak is coming from. Glad I was not driving on the freeway oblivious to the leak. The way this thing is leaking, it would not have taken long at all to run the trans dry.

There are no vettes in salvage yards around here. Does the 3rd gen Camaro use the same lines? They don't look that difficult to change. That or I'll try some trans shops. Vette is out of comission for now.

Oh Well. S**t happens. I guess I should have spaced the lines away from the header. That's just the way the damn thing fit though, right against the line.


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Old May 20, 2008 | 10:02 PM
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Buy a section of line from an auto parts store and splice it in with flared unions.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 10:14 PM
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It's pretty close to where the lines begin to turn. It looks like it would have been easier had it been on a nice straight section a little more downstream, but still looks doable. Like this?

http://www.creativehomeowner.com/ind...ectid=chplm166
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Old May 20, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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you were very lucky that happened on a cold start, you could have lit that vette up on a hot header
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Old May 20, 2008 | 10:46 PM
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A large portion of the undercarriege from there back is soaked with trans fluid. So clearly I did drive around like that for some time before I found out.

I figure by splicing a new piece as Pete K mentioned, I can add a different bend to keep it off the header from now on.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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Bend the line to clear and cut the line where the leak is and use a brass compression coupler...



to couple the line back together. I think it may be a 1/2" line. Throw a mic on it and then get the correct coupler......less than a $5.00 fix.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 10:57 PM
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This never even occured to me. Sure beats tracking one of these down. Splicing it is.

Question though. When cutting (with pipe cutter) and flaring the ends, should this be done with the lines on or off the car? Wouldn't this potentially introduce debris into the oil lines?
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Old May 21, 2008 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
This never even occured to me. Sure beats tracking one of these down. Splicing it is.

Question though. When cutting (with pipe cutter) and flaring the ends, should this be done with the lines on or off the car? Wouldn't this potentially introduce debris into the oil lines?

Smart thinkin'... What IS the tolerance for particulate stuff in the lines?

Tranny fluid is not hi-pressure like oil flow. I just repaired my Jimmy 4.3 remote filter lines' crimps, with standard hose gaskets.

I dremeled off the crimps, pulled back the rubber line, and didn't even have to replace the rubber line - just put on the screw clamps.


Fixed. 1 hour, $3.65.


ed.:
If the line is already halfway cut thru, some debris might have already gotten into the line. It may be no concern, although I would definitely change the fluid afterward, since it's been exposed to a little 'extra' heat...

My

Last edited by schrade; May 21, 2008 at 12:12 AM.
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Old May 21, 2008 | 02:52 AM
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Is it just me or is the instant email alert not working?
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Old May 21, 2008 | 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
A large portion of the undercarriege from there back is soaked with trans fluid. So clearly I did drive around like that for some time before I found out.

I figure by splicing a new piece as Pete K mentioned, I can add a different bend to keep it off the header from now on.
Use a mini pipe cutter for making the cuts.
The repaired section of line can be cleaned off the car, and the fluid dripping out of the existing line will carry the almost unmeasurable debris away.
I would be more worried about the extra heat that was added to the trans (via header contact and running trans low on fluid),
than I would be worried about shavings.
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Old May 21, 2008 | 08:19 PM
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with Peter K. Cut the line with a small tube cutter. It has a hardened wheel that cuts into the tube leaving a clean cut. You do not have to flare the ends of the tube if you use the compression coupler. It is brass and when you take off the nut you will find a brass compression washer (almost like a "O" ring). Put the nut over the line then the compression washer and push the line into the main body of the coupler. When you tighten the nut, it will squeeze the compression washer onto the line and form a excellent seal. Do the same for the other side and you are good to go.

Picture:
You can see the nut, compression washer and main body in this picture.

Last edited by John A. Marker; May 21, 2008 at 11:34 PM. Reason: Add picture
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Old May 22, 2008 | 12:34 AM
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Nice. I already have a small pipe cutter that will fit up in there. All I need now is the hardware.
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Old May 22, 2008 | 12:36 AM
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Interesting.. what headers do you have? My headers do not hit the line.
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Old May 23, 2008 | 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by AZC4Guy
Interesting.. what headers do you have? My headers do not hit the line.
Hooker 2151's.

That line has been against the header for a good 5 years now. Had I known it was going to wear through, I would have spaced it away.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 02:34 PM
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This thing is really starting to **** me off. Getting the fittings at the trans lines loose is about impossible. The right size crowfoot wants to round off the fitting. And there is no room to put a flare wrench up in there. I guess what I need is a flared crowfoot which I don't have. I got an entire set of regular crowfoots which does me no good
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Old May 28, 2008 | 05:23 PM
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You are chinging the line section anyway. Just vice grip it off, if room allows. The new line will have fittings with it.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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Line wrenches are the correct tool for the job, I have a set of stubbies with a 25 degree bend on em which fits right up in there and gets the job done. You can buy a set fairly cheap at advance auto for about $15.
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Old May 28, 2008 | 05:31 PM
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The right tool is everything. I guess you can never have too many.

Bought a set of flared crowfoot sockets. Got the lines off with extensions and wobble joints. It was still a royal PITA because someone had already partially rounded the fittings. That made it difficult to fit the flare crowfoot around the fittings. Here is where all that fluid was coming out of. The other line is fine.


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Old May 28, 2008 | 07:04 PM
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I bought a new line and coupling at Napa for $5. All I have to do now is flare and connect them.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:08 PM
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Fixed. Rented the flaring tool and tube bender from Autozone.

Refilled and ran the car, not a drop of fluid. Left plenty of clearance away from the header this time.


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