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No but you will need some creative fabrication to properly connect the TV cable. Reaching way back, B&M had a diagram in their shift kit detailing the measurements and angles. The TV cable must be connected and adjusted properly for the trans to shift as it is supposed to.
Man, that is quite a system Happydad. Did you box in the BG carb or set it up for blow-thru?
BTW, I prefer iron heads for a street car (flame-suit on again). I like having the heads and block with the same thermal expansions (or close enough to it) and I like not haveing issues with galvanic corrosion. Plus, they're cheaper and flow fine for a street engine.
Thanks It's blowthru...Had carb tuned for the engine specs..Tranny and rear end mods going on now..
[QUOTE=JLeatherman;1564092442]BTW, I prefer iron heads for a street car (flame-suit on again). I like having the heads and block with the same thermal expansions (or close enough to it) and I like not haveing issues with galvanic corrosion. QUOTE]
I said that once and was shot down by CFI-EFI. I do like the fact that iron heads are actually much better at taking punishment than aluminum heads. If only the iron heads were a bit lighter and didn't make the nose of my car about 60 lbs heavier, I would take them over the aluminum heads. Just because I'm always bored with nothing to do, I may as well swap over because of that fact. Head swaps get easier everytime I do it.
I used a torker 2 intake with a mighty demon 650, stroker motor with 11 to 1 compression. I modified a throttle and tv cable bracket made by Holley. Several good transmission folks suggested using the bowtie overdrive bracket and plate. Interestingly enough the torker 2 carb mating surface (Holley) required me to sandwich a plate between the BG and Manifold because the vaccume port was leaking. The bowtie unit would provide both the plate and mounting bracket. I found on my 84 the HEI was so close to the firewall that it was an easy call to go with the MSD Pro Billet which is much smaller. I have spent alot of time working with the wireing disaster and this will be your greatest obsticle. Good luck my car ripps with the 383, 700r4 and 3.73 gears with ZR1 style wheels.
All the components on my engine were researched out by me..I not saying that what I have is the best or my components are the ones to get....They work for my engine..Other people like the alum heads,Holley carbs,TPI,TBI or what ever..All I know is Research and match your components whatever brands and make sure they work with each other..You can spend a fortune on the "Best of the Best" parts and throw them in the engine and it wouldnt pass a Pinto because they don't work with each other...Or you could spend minimum and create a screamer....Brand names don't mean a thang..JMHO
Last edited by Happydad; Feb 15, 2008 at 05:28 AM.
I'd be interested in seeing what you are referring to, in context.
RACE ON!!!
You shot me down when I said that galvanic corrosion and thermal expansion on an iron block with aluminum heads is more likely on a set up utilizing thinner head gaskets.
Hey thanks guys for the input I mean there’s all kinds of ways to produce power…I am always willing to listen to anyone, any kind of "positive" input is good
I am having a bit of a problem with my carb conversion…I have the fuel lines routed and I am ready to fire the car up… but when I turn the key to the on position I think I hear the pump going and yet I don’t have any fuel pressure…The car is a 84 and I am using Aeromotive fuel regulator…what do you guys think?
You don't have the lines swapped do you ???? If not Pull the Hose and see if in fact it's pumping fuel...Just a quick thought,when you get it started check your fuel pressure, if you can't get it down to 5-7 then you might need to get a bigger return line...Let us know
You can get a pretty tall intake under a stock 84 hood. I'm running a Weiand Stealth (love the manifold BTW) with a BG650 and a 1 1/4" drop base 14" air cleaner and it closes (barely). I've even heard one member got a Victor Jr. with a carb and some air cleaner under a stock 84 hood. Any good vac-advance distributor will work. I'm running an MSD cause they were on sale at the time . On an 84 the fan will still work as normal, along with the dash (excluding the MPG readout).
This is the manifold that I used also. I ran it with a Holley 750 and a fuel regulator with a return line from Mallory. One of the older big block Stingrays used an OEM aircleaner that had an extreme drop to it... ask a C3 Forum member for the part #... and it cleared the hood without difficulty. BTW, with only a stock bottom end, later model OEM AL heads and a warmed over cam the car ran an 11.7. Good cheap power.
oh so i took off the line and found the pump was working kinda of...didn't have that much pressure no wonder why when i had the cross fire it took so long to start it...so i picked up a new pump installed it in less then 30 mins wow i really like the way the corvette engineers design the car(on my fiero i had to drop the tank and that wasn't so great)... turned the key and heard a real faint humming noise...looks like the other pump was on its last leg cus i could hear it every time i turn the car into the on position...the pressure is good now...I was wondering what PSI should it be while the car is running?
Last edited by 2005avtj; Feb 28, 2008 at 12:21 PM.
14 psi on the Crossfire. It's regulated at the 2nd throttle body, using a TPI pump won't gain you any power but it will let you avoid any pressure drop when you hit the throttle and you have a weak stock pump.