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Yes they are ARP bolts. I thought the 12 point would be really cool, turns out
that they kinda suck. Sure they look cool, but it makes it that much harder to
get a wrench on them since you can't use the open end. If I had to do it again I'd get the stainless ARP hex head instead of the 12 points. If I ever have to take the headers loose I'll do that.
GRX, no I don't have to worry about smog, I can make all I want.
If you use stainless in aluminum heads they tend to get slippery (loosen up).
They may not stay tight. They may need sealant applied. Or, can anybody
say safety wire time. That can be a pain. :( Just an observation.
Go with Stage 8 locking header bolts, 1/4" longer then the stock bolts in stainless and you'll have no problems. ( They also look :cool: ) :seeya
:yesnod: Put some anti-seize on Stage 8 lockers and forget them, they won't come loose. You want to minimize dealing with the ones by cyls 7 and 8 at all costs!
I got them through Chris at Speed Demon, they are actually headers for the L98 so you will need some fabrication done with the rest of your exhaust work. All said and done it was around $600 but I'm pretty sure he told me they were on sale, that's why I ordered them when I did. Regardless he'll work with you go get a good price, they are a good company to work with.
For the fuel rail covers and everything else black I used this CD-2 engine detailer spray I bought from AutoZone. I use it on the insides of my fenders (the parts on the hood) so they clean off easier. I don't remember how much it costs but I'm fairly pleased with the results. I just picked it up one day as I was browsing through the store, thought I would give it a shot.
There aren't any plug wires on the headers or they would be toast by now. I've seen that too many times, that's why I've got tie wraps everywhere. I don't have any decent wire looms yet so I tie wraps will just have to do. Plug wires are such a PITA I want to make sure I don't burn any. I agree the camera angle can make it look kinda bad but I assure you they are all in the clear.
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Re: Better Header Pictures (Nathan Plemons)
On the driver's side, I notice your engine does not have 3 brackets that I have on my 1996. There is a bracket that bolts to the intake and to the back of the alternator and A/C compressor. There are two rod braces that attach to the 2nd and 3rd header bolts that run up to the back of the alternator and AC compressor. Did you remove them or were they never there?
Most of the time, these brackets do not get put back on and you WILL get a vibration from the AC when you use it. I have heard you can not put them back on with long tubes. I will find out first hand if I ever get my engine back.
The thing with the brackets is that some of them bolted to the stock manifolds which are much thicker than the headers. The result is that there is no place to put them back. All of the accessories are mounted SOLID to the accessory bracket. I can't say about vibration because I have not re-filled my A/C system yet. I guess it's all in the price you pay for performance.