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I needed to remove and replace the radiator on my 85. The air conditioning has never worked (the hoses have cracked and the refrigerant is gone) so I figured I may as well just remove it (creates more space under the hood). I plan on removing the condensor, accumulator, and the hoses.
Can I just cap off the compressor and the ports where the lines go into the vents?
You don't even need the delete bracket. I removed my compressor and got a shorter belt and ran it around the tensioner the other way from stock. I got this tip from Doug Rippie about 7 years ago and it's worked great. Belt has never jumped off. I did the same thing to my son's '87 (mine's an '86) last year and his works great too. Next we will be taking the huge box off the firewall and covering the opening with a piece of tin. That'll free up tons of space.
Okay, more questions on this topic. We got the condensor and large box off the firewall (my son's '87 we're working on). It all comes out as one unit with the blower motor too. He ended up breaking the plastic piece between the blower motor and the condensor box. No big deal there. But, the question is: how do you mount the blower motor now? Do you still need to somehow route the air from the blower motor's location over to the cutout where you pull out the condensor? Or, do you cap that cutout off and find a blower motor the fits into the round hole further and just blows the air in that cavity? It looks like there is a trap door inside there where the squirel cage would be turning so maybe that would work?
Okay, more questions on this topic. We got the condensor and large box off the firewall (my son's '87 we're working on). It all comes out as one unit with the blower motor too. He ended up breaking the plastic piece between the blower motor and the condensor box. No big deal there. But, the question is: how do you mount the blower motor now? Do you still need to somehow route the air from the blower motor's location over to the cutout where you pull out the condensor? Or, do you cap that cutout off and find a blower motor the fits into the round hole further and just blows the air in that cavity? It looks like there is a trap door inside there where the squirel cage would be turning so maybe that would work?
Figure it out?
I've been wanting to do this as well. I figure, since I have a supercharger, the alternator on the other side, heavily modified brackets, etc it aint going back to stock. ever.
Well, we're still working on this. We've been doing tons of things to the car so it's not like we've spent the last month on this heater thing. But, we tried cutting up a aluminum cake pan to create a housing for the air to go from the side of the squirel cage housing over to the rectangular opening in the fire wall near the heater core. At least it looks like the heater core in there. That didn't go soo well. It's rather difficult to create this path for the air. So, now I'm looking at a aftermarket 12 volt blower housing with the squirel cage motor and a square outlet. I think that might work to mount to the face of the firewall over the round opening where the original fan went and then run some sort of pvc pipe or something from the fan outlet over to the othe opening in the firewall. I've found one that looks like it might work, just have to order it and see if I can make it work.
what's this other way from stock that has been spoken of for the AC delete? i would love to get rid of it {1990 car} but would then run into a problem driving the water pump.
I think when people speak of "a/c delete" they are talking about a bracket that eliminates the a/c compressor and allows you to run the same serpentine belt? You don't really need that tho, you can just run your belt around the other side of the belt tensioner and use a shorter belt, that's what I and my son have done and it works great. What we're now talking about is dealing with the whole firewall issue. Does the a/c delete bracket have the goods to take care of that, anybody know?
I think when people speak of "a/c delete" they are talking about a bracket that eliminates the a/c compressor and allows you to run the same serpentine belt? You don't really need that tho, you can just run your belt around the other side of the belt tensioner and use a shorter belt, that's what I and my son have done and it works great. What we're now talking about is dealing with the whole firewall issue. Does the a/c delete bracket have the goods to take care of that, anybody know?
I should have taken some pics of my heater box. I had to remove the inner evaporator cover and build an aluminum heater box. Get some aluminum sheet and some self tapping screws and make up a heater box from the fan to the firewall opening and then paint it black.
You should be good to go?
If you haven't figured it out by the weekend let me know. I should have the car painted by then and be able to snap a couple of pics for you.
I should have taken some pics of my heater box. I had to remove the inner evaporator cover and build an aluminum heater box. Get some aluminum sheet and some self tapping screws and make up a heater box from the fan to the firewall opening and then paint it black.
You should be good to go?
If you haven't figured it out by the weekend let me know. I should have the car painted by then and be able to snap a couple of pics for you.
what's this other way from stock that has been spoken of for the AC delete? i would love to get rid of it {1990 car} but would then run into a problem driving the water pump.
Buy a normal rotation long pump ( for '87 + anyway ), make a adjustable bracket to support alt and do away with everything.
No need for A/c bracket to mount idler.Very clean
Belt runs crank - PS - alt - waterpump.
Can send pic but out of country for a week,
Joe, I'm just waiting for the blower fan to arrive. I will take a bunch of pics of it when we start putting it together.
Sounds good.
My dash is a total disaster. I want to rip out the digital heater assembly, re plumb it to a manual unit and run a blower box. As long as i get defrost and floor heat, I can still use the car in early spring / late fall.
There is a little bit of motor and coil in the way but as you can see there wasn't much work involved. Of course I wasn't worried about show quality either
I used a shorter belt and the same tensioner with a new pulley. the belt I used ended up being 68 1/2 inches and I also purchased a ribbed pulley for 18 dollars 30 minute job start to finish. The pulley I used did require a little shimming and I had to grind the tensioner just a touch but it worked out really well. Total cost was 50 dollar. I highly recommend this mod
FYI, the a/c compressor by itself weighs a little over 15 pounds and I plan to cut down the bracket because it it used to hold other things so I cant just remove it.
Last edited by ekess744; May 25, 2008 at 01:10 AM.