86 Low Coolant Switch
Thread Starter
Slingshot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,817
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
86 Low Coolant Switch
86 Low Coolant Switch - Exactly how does this switch come out. Do you just pull if out of the wiring harness? Do you just open the hold-down arms and pull it out of the radiator? I just don't want to break anything yanking it out or strong-arming my very old and brittle wiring harness.
Last edited by pmihaltian; Feb 25, 2008 at 12:43 PM. Reason: clarity
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 163
From: Davis CA
You are smarter than I am because I assumed that you should pry out the locking arms and remove the switch from the radiator. Of course, the arms snapped and I then waited over a week for a new sensor to be delivered. Actually, one had snapped from prior work and the sensor had been working for an unknown time with one good arm.
The wire connector slides over the end of the sensor. Try to remove just that and leave the sensor and its glass arms alone. In fact, try to hold the sensor while pulling the connector so that those arms aren't overly stressed.
The wire connector slides over the end of the sensor. Try to remove just that and leave the sensor and its glass arms alone. In fact, try to hold the sensor while pulling the connector so that those arms aren't overly stressed.
Thread Starter
Slingshot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,817
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 163
From: Davis CA
Perhaps I assumed too much. I assumed that you want to take the radiator out but did not necessarily want to remove the sensor. If you need to take the sensor out of the radiator, I wish you good luck with the arms. If you just need to disconnect the wire from the radiator, slide the connector off of the rear blade of the sensor taking care to not break the sensor. It should just pull off. If this is a job that you can postpone for a week or more, I suggest that you buy a new sensor to have on hand in case yours breaks. It took about 9 calendar days for mine to arrive. If you are buying a new radiator it might come with a new sensor. Does one of those options fit?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Athens AL
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It just pulls off the wiring, getting an old one off the radiator without snapping one of the arms off....thats the problem.
Almost a sure bet you'll snap it off. Buy a new sensor and have it waiting before you try prying it off.
Almost a sure bet you'll snap it off. Buy a new sensor and have it waiting before you try prying it off.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
From: berwick pennsylvania
saw several posts about the low coolant sensor and thought i would go check something out. i walked out to my garage scoped out the pass side of the rad and sensor is there but no wire and cant find one to hook up. this has been off ever since i got the car. how criticle is this that it is hooked up
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 163
From: Davis CA
Well, it tells you when your coolant is low and it is basically your only warning until you see steam or the coolant temperature shoots up.
It was especially helpful to me when I had a radiator leak. I was driving and would not have checked the coolant level if the light had not come on. My first notice would have been the coolant temperature going too high.
Here is my guess why it was disconnected. Unless you fill the radiator correctly, you will get an annoying low coolant light that comes and goes. Filling it right involves topping it up with the engine warm and at 2K RPMS or so, then putting the cap on before you let the RPMS back down to idle. (Read full description elsewhere before doing)
It was especially helpful to me when I had a radiator leak. I was driving and would not have checked the coolant level if the light had not come on. My first notice would have been the coolant temperature going too high.
Here is my guess why it was disconnected. Unless you fill the radiator correctly, you will get an annoying low coolant light that comes and goes. Filling it right involves topping it up with the engine warm and at 2K RPMS or so, then putting the cap on before you let the RPMS back down to idle. (Read full description elsewhere before doing)
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If you ground the connector, no more light issues. Not the best fix but a quickie....
