Timing chain cover seals
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 215
Likes: 1
From: Radford Virginia
Timing chain cover seals
Am thinking about replacing the seals in the timing chain cover since they are leaking (very little !). I have the FSM and have read that they advise to remove motor mount bolts and raise engine, also to remove oil pan, is that necessary to get to the seals in the timing chain cover? Also any advise on the best way to remove the Torsional Damper and crankshaft hub, seems to me that a generic wheel puller would work? Oh" 1992 LT1 that may help
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
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From: O'Fallon Missouri
8th Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Lake Havasu AZ
Timing cover seals
LilredC4,
Right in the middle of that job now; in fact, removed the front cover this morning. It all started with a leaky water pump, which led to an MSD distributor while uncovering the opti, plugs & plug wires, & discovering the leaky crank seal.
Having gone this far, next time, I'll pay someone to do it !
Anyway, if I can answer any specific questions, fire away.
Another word of advice; while you're in there, replace anything you can reach or that you have to take apart. Replace all 3 seals on the cover & get new o rings (2) for the water pump drive. Be very careful with the gasket at the bottom of the cover as it fits into a groove of the cover & rests up against the oil pan. I've not had to jack the engine or loosen the oil pan. Removing the bolts holding the power steering fluid tube helped also, as did removing the idler belt pulley.
Good luck !
Smitty
Right in the middle of that job now; in fact, removed the front cover this morning. It all started with a leaky water pump, which led to an MSD distributor while uncovering the opti, plugs & plug wires, & discovering the leaky crank seal.
Having gone this far, next time, I'll pay someone to do it !
Anyway, if I can answer any specific questions, fire away.
Another word of advice; while you're in there, replace anything you can reach or that you have to take apart. Replace all 3 seals on the cover & get new o rings (2) for the water pump drive. Be very careful with the gasket at the bottom of the cover as it fits into a groove of the cover & rests up against the oil pan. I've not had to jack the engine or loosen the oil pan. Removing the bolts holding the power steering fluid tube helped also, as did removing the idler belt pulley.
Good luck !
Smitty
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
Some suggestions:
1) There is a special hub puller/installer for the LT1 that makes the job very easy when pulling and isntalling the hub. Others have done it without this puller and did not have a problem. Some have ruined the threads in the crankshaft using generic pullers and installers. You will probably see several posts saying, "I did it without it." Some, includiing me the first time, borrowed the tool from a Chevy dealer. I liked the tool so much, I bought one.
2) There is a special tool to prevent the water pump drive inner seal lip from flipping over backwards when putting the timing cover back on -- it is not easy to do this without the special tool, and even if you are successful, there is no way to confirm it -- although it has been done successfully without it (I've done it without the tool myself, but I don't recommend it and it isn't worth my time, so I bought it. There are some that made the tool -- do a search).
3) If the crankshaft hub has any noticeable grooves (and it doesn't take much of a groove) where the seal contacts it, I would replace the hub or it will probably leak -- if you are replacing the hub, it is a good time to get a hub with a keyway and install a key in the crankshaft.
Tom Piper
1) There is a special hub puller/installer for the LT1 that makes the job very easy when pulling and isntalling the hub. Others have done it without this puller and did not have a problem. Some have ruined the threads in the crankshaft using generic pullers and installers. You will probably see several posts saying, "I did it without it." Some, includiing me the first time, borrowed the tool from a Chevy dealer. I liked the tool so much, I bought one.
2) There is a special tool to prevent the water pump drive inner seal lip from flipping over backwards when putting the timing cover back on -- it is not easy to do this without the special tool, and even if you are successful, there is no way to confirm it -- although it has been done successfully without it (I've done it without the tool myself, but I don't recommend it and it isn't worth my time, so I bought it. There are some that made the tool -- do a search).
3) If the crankshaft hub has any noticeable grooves (and it doesn't take much of a groove) where the seal contacts it, I would replace the hub or it will probably leak -- if you are replacing the hub, it is a good time to get a hub with a keyway and install a key in the crankshaft.
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; Mar 9, 2008 at 09:24 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 215
Likes: 1
From: Radford Virginia
Thanks; Tom
I have not started the project as of yet, Only researching it and trying to get the nerve to do it. After reading http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...84&whichpage=1, I may not have to remove the timing cover after all, just replace the seals. I will only know that when I tear into it and assess the problem. If the main seal is not leaking I will leave it alone, but if it is I guess that is when the hub and timing cover needs to be removed.
I have not started the project as of yet, Only researching it and trying to get the nerve to do it. After reading http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...84&whichpage=1, I may not have to remove the timing cover after all, just replace the seals. I will only know that when I tear into it and assess the problem. If the main seal is not leaking I will leave it alone, but if it is I guess that is when the hub and timing cover needs to be removed.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
Thanks; Tom
I have not started the project as of yet, Only researching it and trying to get the nerve to do it. After reading http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...84&whichpage=1, I may not have to remove the timing cover after all, just replace the seals. I will only know that when I tear into it and assess the problem. If the main seal is not leaking I will leave it alone, but if it is I guess that is when the hub and timing cover needs to be removed.
I have not started the project as of yet, Only researching it and trying to get the nerve to do it. After reading http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...84&whichpage=1, I may not have to remove the timing cover after all, just replace the seals. I will only know that when I tear into it and assess the problem. If the main seal is not leaking I will leave it alone, but if it is I guess that is when the hub and timing cover needs to be removed.
However, if the crankshaft seal is leaking, I'm betting it is because of a groove in the hub rather than a problem with the seal -- but, even if the hub is worn, replacing both the seal and the hub is the best way.
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; Mar 9, 2008 at 11:25 AM.
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From: San Antonio TX
Don't forget that if the water pump driveshaft seal is leaking it could also be from a grove worn into the shaft. Depending on the mileage on your car. In that case you have no choice but to drop the oil pan. I disassembled the front of the engine before buying any parts just to see what I was getting into. In my case I had to drop the oil pan, buy a new hub, and water pump driveshaft. My vette has 103,000 miles. Lucky for me it's not a DD and I just took my time.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 215
Likes: 1
From: Radford Virginia
Mine has only just turned 33K, I think that the seals are leaking becuase it has sat for for long. It only leaks one very small drop on the floor each time I take it out, but odds are it won't fix itself, and it is causing the engine compartment to get dirty, can't have that!
8th Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Lake Havasu AZ
LilredC4,
Same problem here; low mileage, dried out seals. I couldn't get the seals out of the cover with it on the engine. Not enough space to get leverage. Otherwise, leaving the cover on would've been much easier.
The crank hub came off using a three eared puller. Had to run a smaller diameter shaft (made from a 3 " bolt) into the crank bolt hole. No thread damage. Hardest part was actually knocking the damper off the hub from behind (rust).
Also appreciate the advice from the froum, particularly on the WP seal: thanks guys !
I'm now waiting for the front cover gasket to re-assemble everything.
Know what you mean about "nerve" having never worked on an LT-1 before. Just take your time & shoot pics along the way for re-assembly reference...
Smitty
Same problem here; low mileage, dried out seals. I couldn't get the seals out of the cover with it on the engine. Not enough space to get leverage. Otherwise, leaving the cover on would've been much easier.
The crank hub came off using a three eared puller. Had to run a smaller diameter shaft (made from a 3 " bolt) into the crank bolt hole. No thread damage. Hardest part was actually knocking the damper off the hub from behind (rust).
Also appreciate the advice from the froum, particularly on the WP seal: thanks guys !
I'm now waiting for the front cover gasket to re-assemble everything.
Know what you mean about "nerve" having never worked on an LT-1 before. Just take your time & shoot pics along the way for re-assembly reference...
Smitty
