i finally got the ok to go racing with the c4 being that the steering colum was completely worn out i put a straight shaft and removeable wheel setup in the car we left the stock ignition switch in tact but will be putting a sheet metal dash in can anyone help me with the setup for a push button starter switch wire color ect.. ps i already had the chip in the key thing bypassed or disabled.. 92 vert

 

I cant say the color but, you can feed the button with the wire from the nuetral safety switch. I am not sure who sanctions the tracks you run at but NHRA requires it.

 

If the late models are the same as early then the starter switch is (was ) located at the bottom of the column , operated by a rod from the key mech.
All you need to do is to locate the in/ out wires and extend them to your desired switch location.
All you have done then is to relocate the switch; the rest of your starter circut is intact.

 

sweet. it cant be that easy!!!

 

The key cylinder in the column operates a rod that pushes on the plunger inside the ignition switch that is at the base of the column. When pushed several things happen in the switch. Without looking at the schematic a few of them come to mind. Voltage is provided to the fuse panel to operate many of the features in the car. Additionally, the fuel injection system and ignition are also powered from the switch. A schematic is required. You may need to add a couple of toggle switches in your new dash to duplicate what happens in the ignition switch. Plus you need the mometary switch for the starter. Not hard to do, just extend the wires for the ignition switch connector to the dash switches. If you need more details let us know. I'm sure someone can post the schematic for the switch to make everything clear.

Art

 

On TV they just rip out a handful of wires and rub then together!

 

a schematic would be great eliminate a lot of guessing...

 

Look for Agent 86 on this forum. He seems to be able to post schematics for a lot of members. Don't know if he has the one for your year but it wouldn't hurt to find out.

Art

 

All this information should be in you FSM.

 

Looking at my FSM for an 85, there are two large red hot battery wires connected in parallel to the ignition switch. When the switch is turned to "RUN" the red wires make connection to the brown wire (which feeds the wipers and radio), the orange wire (which feeds the pwr windows, cooling fans, charging system exciter wire, and the AC), the pink wire (which feeds the ignition, spark control, check engine light, cruise, gages, cluster fuse, and turn/bu lights, and the fuel injectors). When you rotate the key cylinder to the "Start" postion, the "RUN" circuit is still energized but the red wires now make momentary contact with the yellow wire which I believe goes thru the neutral safety switch to the starter. Red to Yellow is what happens when you turn the key cylinder to the "Start" position. When you let off the "Start" position the switch moves to the "RUN" position. If you still want the "Accessory" function then a switch to just power the brown wire provides power to just the radio and wipers. This example of the '85 schematic should give you an idea of what is required to bypass your old ignition switch in order to design a system that will duplicate yours. If I was doing this in my '85 I would have one toggle connect both reds wire to the brown, orange, and pink wire so that it would turn all three circuits on. I'd have a momentary switch (ignition switch) connect the red wires to the yellow wire. If I wanted to leave the accessory function I'd tap into the red wires to another toggle that was connected to just the brown wire so just the radio and wipers worked.

Art

 

Something else came to mind. If you're not using the stock column then your stock turn signal wiring is probably not connected to anything. If the turn signal switch is not connected to the wiring at the base of the column then your brake light wiring which runs through your turn signal switch will be open causing you to have no brake lights. This can be fixed by bypassing the switch and connecting whatever wires that are open together. This would render your turn signals inoperable but an after market turn signal could be added. I don't know what is left of your original column so you may still have your old turn signal connected. Still, a schematic is required if you were going to bypass it, and as mentioned it would be in the FSM. I could detail what is required for an '85 but don't know if it would apply to your car. It may since that circuit for most gm cars are the same.

Art

 

Could you explain the sequence (including the extra toggle switch for the radio and wipers) of turning on and off the car? Do you leave the toggle for the radio/wipers on all of the time? Thanks

 

You would only have to keep the switch to the radio and wiper on if you wanted those functions while the car was running. Leave it off if you don't want to use them, as long as there are no other critical circuits in that leg of wiring. As you know some cars have aftermarket accessories that might run off the radio fuse. If you're racing you probably just need to power the pink wire and orange wires all the time the car is in the "run" mode". If you want to add an accessory, add it to the second switch so it operates in the "run" mode. Just make sure it has a fuse inline with whatever you're powering. I don't have experience with actually doing this but based on my wiring schematic I would do it the way I explained. I would expect to have 3 switches each one marked, "accessories", "run", and "start". Flipping the accessory switch on would be just like turning your old ignition switch to accessories. If you wanted to start the car, flip the second switch on to the "run" position. Then flip the third momentary switch to the "start" position just like you would if you were starting the car. Release the "start" switch and since the second switch is in the "run" position the car would be running. To shut the car off, flip the "run" switch to off. If the "accessories" switch is on, then turn it off too. This is how I would expect it to operate. All three switches are going to share the power of the the two red wires. So you'll probably have to strap one pin or pole of each of the three switches together. The other poles on the switches would go to the brown wire on one switch, the orange and pink wire on the second switch, and the yellow wire on the third momentary switch. Now this doesn't mean it will work but I'm 99.9% sure it would work exactly that way. Again, since I've never done this there could be a hiccup but it would be practically nil. This info is for an '85 but it could be similar to later years.

Art

 

Thanks for your reply...
Is the acc wire powered during normal running conditions, or is it only powered when you turn the key to that position? I was wondering if I could just use this...

If I bypassed the resistor in the key issue would this turn on the car with no key needed? I never use the acc option, so I could wire a seperate toggle for that and place it somewhere else. I was also thinking of using a keypad to enter a code before you can use the ignition. I already have keyless entry so I can just use that to lock/unlock the doors and not need a key, just a code.

 

Yes, the accessories wire is powered when the key is in the "on" or "run" position. All the wires except the yellow one are connected together. If you wire all the wires except the yellow one to one switch it will be more difficult to bypass the orange and pink wires just to power the brown (radio/wiper). This is the reason for running 3 separate switches. From what I can see of the switch and without the instructions it looks like you could use that switch, but from what I can see there won't be any separate accessories function unless, like you mentioned, you moved the brown wire off this switch and wired it separately later. If everything is wired to the switch pictured there will be power to the fuel pump relay, the ignition, radio, wiper plus others. Once you install the bypass resistor in the VATS circuit you won't have any problems starting the car unless there is an existing problem with this circuit. A drawback to just using the remote or keyless pads to lock and unlock the car is the hood is only opened from the inside. A dead battery renders these features useless. Keep the manual lock workable.

Art