How hard/rough should you have to pull and pry to separate the Block from the Bell Housing/Transmission? Should it just ease out of the trani with the fly wheel and clutch attached? Do you have to remove slave cylinder and the clutch fork?

I have all the bell housing bolts out, had to unhook the Tani to Dif beam to lower Trani to get top bell housing bolts out, that was fun!

I have the motor mount bolts out and when I lift engine it clears motor mounts. Do you have to remove the mount brackets attached to the block?

I can stick a screw driver between the block and bell housing but when I pull it out they close together.

I have the engine hoist on the side of the car, I am trying to cheat and not remove the hood. Is this possible?

I real appreciate some help here....

Thanks
Ken

 

Take the trans out and the bellhousing, clutch and flywheel. Also remove the wiper motor as that will get in the way.
I removed mine with the hood on but it does make it harder.
One think to remember you have to reverse the process to put the motor back in so what may take more time now may save you time when the new motor goes back in.

Good luck.

 

So no way to take the motor out without removing trani?
That sucks...
I had most of the wiring unhooked, intake and heads off, exhaust removed, rad out and everything striped to the timing change when I started today. Thought it was going to be a quick 2 hour job to pull the engine.
Thanks for the advice.

 

I agree, pull the trans first. Although I haven't pulled my engine I have pulled the trans and bellhousing a few times to get at the clutch. The trans is only held in by 4 or 5 bolts. It's not hard to get out, but it is heavy. Because it's pull type clutch the fork slides around the flange of the throwout bearing. I had to unbolt the bellhousing and then pull it back and rotate it a bit to get it free. I certainly wouldn't want to try it with the trans still connected and I don't know if it's even possible. You should pull the slave as well. It's only two nuts and then it out of your way, but still connected to the hydraulics. Make sure you don't let it hang from the line.

Good luck.

Jim

 

How hard/rough should you have to pull and pry to separate the Block from the Bell Housing/Transmission? Should it just ease out of the trani with the fly wheel and clutch attached?

Isn't that the ZF clutch fork problem?
You have to undo clutch fork pivot from bell housing to seperate block and trans( allen key in bellhousing reverse thread from memory)

I am trying to cheat and not remove the hood. Is this possible?

Easy once you have the trans loose.If you have dropped trans enough to get at top bolts , should be enough angle for engine to come foward and off mounts before balancer hits steering rack

 

Thanks Rodj,
I will give it a try removing the slave and clutch fork...before embarking on the trani removal method.
The guys at this site are great and givin a hand.
Ken

 

I've gotta tell you. I tryed to remove the engine without removing the trany and C-beam first and it was a mistake. In my experiance there is not enough clearance to move the engine far eought forward to make the trany input spline clear the cluch assemply (I have no idea about autos). I ended up removing the C-beam and trany with the engine unbolted and suported by a hoist (don't recomend that method lots and lots of curse words involved) just bite the bullet and remove the C-beam and trany It is not that difficult however I would recomend a pneumatic wrachet to remove the 4 cariage bolts on the C-beam (another pain in the ***)

 

I always leave my trans in car. I unbolt bell housing from trans and leave it attached to motor. I found it easier to remove balancer from hub to give me more forward room without hitting steering rack. Once you get motor and bellhousing out in one piece, then rotate bell housing after removing bolts in order to seperate clutch fork from clutch throw out bearing. Then you can seperate the bell housing completely from engine. Also, definetly no need to remove hood. More than enough room to pull assembly out from side.

 

 

Thanks for all the advice. It has been quite and episode today.
Starting with when I look under the car this morning I realize the engine and trani had moved forward enough the drive shaft had fallen out the back of the trani so the decision was made to remove the trani.
So when I finally got a 17 mm allen to drain the trani fluid the trani slipped off the beam and fell 3" to a jack stand that happened to be there. Fortunately I had removed all the wires and consol attachments so it didn't do any damage. OK, the rest was easy at this point.
I agree the quickest way to remove the engine is remove the trani in these latter C4's then you don't have to worry about it falling on the floor unless you have a special jack stand to hold the trani in mplace while removing the engine and bell housing.
BTW I got the engine and bell housing out. Went for another trip to the Sears for a 12mm (I think it sould have been a 13mm) allen to remove the bolt holding the clutch fork in place. The last SOB to tighten the allen bolt must have been proving something as I could not budge it even using a bar on the end of the allen.
Thanks for all the advice. I now have the engine on it's way to the machine shop to be converted to fresh 350 or 383, still debating that decision.
Thanks
Ken

 

I should have read some of these again. REVERSE Thread on Allen...wow I was tightening it if this is true...
Also I like the suggestion of rotating the bell housing to remove the clutch fork.
Well the machine shop can try these. I actually gave up before destroying the bolt. That's a first
Ken