I put in a Bosch 13190 heated O2 sensor. This is a 3 wire O2 sensor.

The two white wires went to power and ground.

The black wire went to the original O2 sensor, as directed by people here.

Any suggestions how to resolve the code 44? I will check the physical, such as wires up against the exhaust and such.

Also, if you didn't see the other thread, why is my check gauges light on? How can I tell what that means?

These are not related problems as far as I can tell. The check guages light came on BEFORE I did the O2.

Thanks

 

Well I would do this disconnect the battery that will clear the pcm of codes and turn the check engine off. if the problem is fixed the light will stay off

 

Did that, no change.

 

Code 44 is a lean exhaust condition. It is almost never the o2 sensor that causes it. Anything that could cause a lean condition is suspect. Vacuum leak would be my first guess.

 

Pete is hardly ever wrong on this stuff.

 

I am always wrong at home though

 

Thanks. Here's the issue. I buttoned up that motor tighter than a ducks ***.

I did not have the SES light until I changed the O2. I ran the engine for about an hour with no problems, changed the O2 and got the code.

I just got home, I'm going to pull out the FSM. I was posting from my Blackberry while I was out.

Could open headers cause this?

 

You have been told not to run that engine with open headers!!

Glad I am not your neighbor.

You were never in closed loop with the unheated O2 sensor. It's been lean the whole time and the ECM didn't know it. For the love of God, scan it.

 

Look, I have to get the car to the exhaust shop to finish this up. Before I drive it I want all codes gone.

Are you telling me that the open headers could be causing the lean condition?

BTW, as for the neighbors, the car is in a garage, and I already spoke to them about the noise, telling them it was limited and temporary.

 

 

Are you telling me that the open headers could be causing the lean condition?

YES, SEVERAL TIMES. RENT A TRAILER!!

BTW, as for the neighbors, the car is in a garage, and I already spoke to them about the noise, telling them it was limited and temporary

I'M SURE THAT'S A HUGE COMFORT AS YOU RAN IT FOR AN HOUR.

 

OK. Tomorrow it goes to my friends station.

In reading the FSM low fuel pressure can cause the condition.

I don't have a scanner or a fuel pressure gauge. I spoke to him about setting that for me.

I'm bringing it in to let him scan it and set the fuel pressure.

Then I'll take it up to the exhaust guy.

It was four 15 minute intervals, just to get the timing set and so forth. I had to run it to see if the VC leaks were fixed too.

I'm the one around here dragging everyone else's property value up, they can put up with a little noise.

 

There is a logical sequence to follow here.

1. Get the exhaust finished. Do not drive to muffler shop with open headers.

2. Run for necessary breakin and leak check.

3. Scan car and get a tune.

4. Enjoy!

As i recall, you are running a highly modded engine with the original injectors without a tune. I don't doubt it is lean.

"I'm the one around here dragging everyone else's property value up, they can put up with a little noise"

Explain that one.

 

You're right. I have AAA, I can call for a flatbed and get it there FREE.

I've had them for years and never used a tow. They owe me. I get two a year.

The exhaust shop also does engine work, I'll go there and talk to them about setting everything up once they get the exhaust on. I'll set a date, then call AAA.

This is my first FI engine. My last ones were all carbs. That is part of the reason I'm doing this, to learn. This isn't all about the power to me, it's about the process, the journey. I HATE paying someone to "clean it up", but at this point I don't have the tools I need. No point in buying them either.

I have an AFPR, which I set according to the directions at "stock" condition.

Could be all or none of those things.

First thing to do is get the exhaust, then deal with the codes.

The only thing left is the check engine light, I'm reading through the FSM to see what that can be. I have never seen a worse written manual than the FSM...

I replaced the injectors with brand new 24LB ones I purchased from BADDUCK. They are STANDARD brand. Stock was 22LBS. So it's slightly higher than stock.

 

The tune will solve your lean condition. How did you adjust an AFPR without a fuel pressure gauge?


What is the CHP rating? I don't think 24s are large enough/

 

According to the instructions that came with the AFPR the initial setting will is to take the adjusting screw down till it hits the nickle looking thing inside, that should be about stock pressure. I got the BBK AFPR, BBK has a decent reputation.

I always anticipated that I'd have to borrow a gauge to set that, or take it somewhere.

I thought I'd get everything else set up, then get the exhaust. HOWEVER, since you're telling me the exhaust may be part of the problem, then I have to look there.

Because I never dealt with EFI, this stuff is kinda new to me. The mechanical stuff never changed, that was easy. This computer stuff and codes, foreign to me, for now. The hooking it up was easy.

I had the chip tuned from Alvin of PCM FOR LESS. That chip is in there now.

 

I don't know the CHP just yet. Accel and Lingenfelter said to look at about 430. I think that's a little optimistic. I'm thinking more like 410. I expect to see about 325 at the wheels. Assuming 20% loss through the 700 trans, that's about 410ish.

 

24s won't hack it. 32 would be comfortable.

You have to look at CHP to size the injectors.

 

Great, more money more money more money.

Education is expensive......

 

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