This is the flat thing on top of the distributor, part #10482832. Greg suggested I get a high performance version of it. Supposedly the 'stock' kind 'breaks down' by 4500 RPM or so, whereas the hi-perf ones are good to 7000 RPM (not that I'll ever get there). Same deal with the Coil? Thought I'd check into that too while it's all apart. :eek:

So, what are you guys running? Does GM have a hi-perf version? If not, where'd you buy yours and could you tell any difference at the drag strip? :)

Thanks, ~Juliet
PS - Before you get on my case Scorp, :D since this part is so buried there's no way the NCRS judges will be judging it, so I'm cool with upgrading it. :jester


[Modified by Juliet, 1:26 PM 12/8/2001]

 

So, by no responses, I presume you guys are all running the stock GM part? :) ~Juliet

 

I've got an Accel Coil, which is putting out about 54,000 volts, compared to the stock 45,000(I think, don't quote me). It was about $54. It is pretty ugly in the case, but I've heard you can crack it open and pull the coil out. On the other hand, MAD Vette and Ecklers both have direct replacement hi-performance coils.



Here is a shot of the Accel coil, not stock-looking if you leave it how it comes...I'd recommend getting one of the others, but I've had really good luck with this one so far.

The reason I got it was because my stock coil died. I gained 9 mph in the 1/8th mile, but the stock coil was dead, so its not a valid comparision.

 

Daaaaam! That's a shiney engine! :yesnod: It definately looks different than OEM. I wonder just how much NCRS is going to be checking. I don't think they'll require removal of the top piece - but ya never know. ;) I'll dig out the Mad & Eckler's catalogs. Hmmm, wonder if Zip has one too? I usually order stuff from them. Thanks! ~Juliet

 

NoWorries-Your engine...I had a dream once about my engine looking spectacular...but it didn't even look as clean as yours! Kudos to you. Wow is all I can say. That thing just looks, I dunno, clean and sharp. Dayum!

Juliet-A high performance coil will theoretically increase the voltage that will be igniting the spark. There was one heckuva thread on this maybe 5 months ago. Some people said that as soon as enough energy was availible to jump the spark, it would jump and a high performance coil would not help. BUT a high performance coil stores up the current until the pickup coil passes its stator pickup and then it juices the rotor. Because of this reason, I believe that all of the voltage (figure in resistance of the wires) gets to the spark. So a coil will increase voltage to the sparkplug.

Now the module-I have worked on understanding the electronics on GM electronics for quite some time, and I keep seing sources that say the stock EST module DOES start to negatively perform after 4500-4800 RPM. This is independent of the ignition coil. So you can get either an upgraded coil, an upgraded module, but the kicker of it all is that you would almost want both to get maximum benefits. Off the top of my head, you might want to see if a company named DUI, or something like Davis Unified Ignitions has a coil UNDER cap variation of an aftermarket coil. I think most are kinda external like NoWorries (the guy who has an immaculate engine compartment). Good luck, -Matt-

 

I will fax this to them, don't be surprised if you see em' pulling out a toolkit. :D :D

p.s. (and trying to be helpful ;))

With stock wires it'll make no difference. The resistance will kill off any extra power. Also the stock L98 needs to be shifted by 4400-4600 RPMs anyways. :)


[Modified by scorp508, 1:07 AM 12/9/2001]

 

Scorp-make sure you add this to the fax...

Needed tools/supplies

1) 1/4" deepwell socket with a swivel on an extension attached to a 1/4" driver.

2) Fresh red marker to make slander remarks on the NCRS judging form.

Scorp does have a really good point. The L98 is going to laugh at you if you try to take it to 5000 RPM. -M-

 

Juliet, I run a HyperTech coil/cap/rotor combo, TPIS low resistance wires and AC Delco cut back plugs. This allows me to open the plug gap to .045"-.050" for a more efficient burn giving better power (~10hp) and economy.

The HyperTech unit looks stock under the plenum tail piece. You will need to take a Dremel to the plastic ring that holds the wires though so that it will fit over the larger dist cap. But this minor sergery is again not visable to the judges. I understand that you want to use the stock Packard wires with numbers on them; the TPIS low resistance wires are the same color but not numbered.

Though the higher resistance stock wires will reduce the energy in the spark once the burn starts, they will not effect the initial voltage that starts the burn because no current flows until plasma discharge. This means that you can still open the plug gap, so the 57kV coil will be beneficial.

BTW with this ignition setup I recently had a dyno pull to 5,200rpm with no misfires and still pulling strong.

 

Juilet,
What I would go for the setup that 65Z01 has and just kee pthe stock stuff for shows. How hard is it to change plug wires anyway?

 

Problem is with the 'show only' parts box, you end up getting this massive box of stuff which takes a month to get all installed on the car! I've gone down that road with the '70 only to stop and say, screw it. I might as well enjoy all my correct, stock, numbers matching stuff myself. I'll find more when it breaks. :D

I don't know - you tell me? I haven't changed them yet, but it doesn't look easy! :eek: I did order a complete set of the loom clip things. My shark plug wires were seemingly a PITA but infinitely more accessible - even on a loaded AC car. :jester: I've toyed with the TPIS wire idea, and using the XACT ends (right style) - but I've got to figure out what I need to get to do the silk screening on the wires first. :eek: ~Juliet

 

Juliet, it's not all that bad to change wires once you pull the tail piece off the plenum and remove the dist cap. Take a pic or three before pulling any wires, especially on the location of the wire looms.

The four that run under the EGR pipe have spiral wrap for protection and are held in place by two metal clamps. You may need to replace these spiral wraps as they get brittle with time.

If you come up with a good silk screen setup please let me know. I've already reversed a copla wires and it just doesn't have the power that way.:rolleyes: