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What do you like? Rumpity-rump or smooth idle? Where do you want to make most of you power- upper or lower rpms? What converter, heads, and gears are you going to go with? All of these issues will need to be addressed before you make a decision on a cam that you will be happy with. I will offer this advice: Don't decide on a cam by which springs you have. Get the cam you want, then match the springs. If you go with aftermarket or ported LT1/4 heads(which you should really do to maximize your 383 investment), then they usually will come with upgraded springs- at least my AFR's did. Goodluck. :cheers:
I don't want an idle that's gonna kill the engine. I would prefer a pretty smooth idle.. of course it would be nice to have a little lobe that people can hear.
For street driving... i prefer lower rpm torque.. which is why i said a nice flat torque curve and hp peak around 5500-6000.
Stock converter, stock heads, and 3.07 gears. I don't have the money to port the heads, upgrade gears, or get a better TC right now. I'm pushing it going with the 383 as it is.
You need to match the cam lift to the head flow numbers. If you are going to upgrade the heads later you need to look at those flow numbers and match the cam lift to that. Also You could go to the next bigger valve spring from GM the LT4 spring supports .525" and the "heavy duty" double coil spring supports .565". If you wanted to stay with a GM spring.
Sticking with stock heads. After this rebuild, i won't be adding performance stuff for a long while... so stock heads.... maybe bigger headers sometime, but again.. not now. and not for a while.
So, I guess i'm just looking for a cam that is a little milder than the stock LT1 cam then... if the LT4 springs limit me to .525 then the max lift at 1.6 i should do is probably .510 or so... which is a .478 with a 1.5 (what most cams i've seen are listed by).
Like, how about a cam like this...
Lingenfelter
SBC 305-420
LT1, L98
213/219
1.5 r .462"/.471"
1.6 r .493"/.502"
112
74216
couldn't you get the 219 cam and then drop to a 1.5 rocker? The lift would be .525. You might be better off rebuilding your 350 and then adding a cam, head, and header combo. A well modded/breathing 350 will make more power than a choked 383. just my .02
I was thinking about doing that.... however I already have a set of 1.6 RR's. and the 1.5 are stamped steel, which weigh more.
Yeah, I've been thinking about scratching the 383 possibly... depends on price of course. I've been spending some time with Desktop Dyno figuring out what to do.
For your $3000 budget I would also just redo the 350 with cam and head work done with a strong botton end. If the rest of the car isn't set up with the 383 in mind you might not be too happy with it.
I would go with the Hotcam, the 383 will make the cam smaller than it would be in a 350. To take full advantage of a 383 you will certainly need to do some head work down the road. Alot of guys have just added a LT-4 hotcam to thier cars and got good results from it.
Springs are cheap, but the ones required for that combo needs headwork done.
Thats exactly right. I tried to skimp on springs and I learned the hardway. I ended up pulling the heads and having them machined for the LPE springs. Also on an L98 for sure you will need slightly longer valves. It might be the same situation on the LT1, but I'm not certain.
I would lean towards the hot cam for your setup. They make great all around power and will pass emissions with a good tune. It will give you a little lump in your idle and raise your rev limit. And guess what... it will work with the springs you have. ;)
PS Stick with a 350!!!
Thanks,
I had the Hot cam with stock heads(in a 350) and I was pleased with the performance, but I have a six speed. I have heard of some issues from people with automatics with stock converters and gears losing too much bottom end torque(that is why I asked earlier)- definately check it out. As far as value goes, you can't beat the Hot cam for the money. You can do some mild porting yourself on the heads and intake with a dremel tool.
I've heard it's really easy to screw up the lT1 heads though.... i'd rather find someone who has done LT1's before explain exactly how to do it.. and FriskyZ06 might do them for me (he's got experience with gm heads.. just not the aluminum LT1's)
And yes, i've heard the same about the HOT cam too..
Hey, don't conform. Crane charges the same amount to custom grind you a cam as they do to send you a pre-made one. Get Desk-Top Dyno, its a great program and you will be able to pick the best cam for your setup.
In my opinion, you're not going to be able to build a decent 383 for that budget, but you can build an awesome 355, that's what I would do, wait, thats what I did do.
Ok, why is everyone saying I can't do the 383??? :confused: ... take a look at this:
$900 Labor (pull, rebuild, bore/hone, put back in)
$995 Eagle cast crank, Eagle forged 5.7" I-beam rods, TRW .030" overbore pistons, Clevite 77 bearings kit, Speed-Pro rings
$225 Ford 24# injectors
$250 Cam (not sure one what kind might be up to $50 cheaper )
$100 Gasket set
$200 misc
-------
$2720
with 134k miles, the builder recommends new rods.. new pistons are required, a new crank is probably require because of the spun bearing.. so I can just go ahead and plan that. the 383 isn't THAT much more than the 350 or 355
Machine work, programming, assembly, fluids, $900 labor is a pretty cheap for bore home R&R. We charge that much in straight machining and assembly!
Is this guy going to hone it with an attachment on a black and decker drill??? :)