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Yep, block work and labor too... I'm not doing it, paying someone else to, worth it over my time and inexperience with rebuilding an engine (though i would like to rebuild one sometime, just not now)
Yeah, I was up until 3 am studying last night, woke up at 9 to go to the shop, got back here at 11, and studied for my 4:30 exam.. now I have until wed at 4:30 for my Database exam.. and then Thurs at 1:30 is my Law exam.. neither are comprehensive, so not TOO much studying i need to do.
Yes, will be a monster all right. Just have to get cash later for some AFR heads or something :)
yep, i've been double checking everything I can into the parts... it's up to the builder now. I'll be reconditioning my injectors, and 24# is supposed to be enough for the 383.
Headers and better heads will come in the future. I'll be doing the ECM tuning myself.
FWIW.............
I chimed in on yer other post about rod lengths.
I think you made a good all 'round choice on the rod length.
I'm also interested in knowing where you got your parts.
Best-o-luck on the engine.
Bob.
SCAT cast crank 3.750 stroke
SCAT forged I-beam 5.7" rods
SRP forged pistons
High volume oil pump
Clevite P series (street) bearings
16 roller lifters
timing chain and gears
Felpro complete gasket set
all for...... $1239 :D
Is this for an LT1? If so, that's a fantastic price. Best price I have seen for comparable goods is $1600 (w/o lifters and gaskets). I assume balancing is extra?
Why can't you reveal where you got the stuff from? Many of us are interested in the details.
Just a warning. Your high volume oil pump might cause you some problems. Are you planning on a larger oil pan? I know at least 3 people who have put in a high volume oil pump and then ruined their motor immediately. Essentially they just pumped all their oil up into the valve covers, and burnt up the bottom end.
One guy I know who did that is on his second stroker kit. The first 383 lasted 16 minutes before it was destroyed by lack of oil, high volume pump. Note, he was in a road race, so he was probably at WOT all 16 minutes, but still. He has a larger oil pan now. I think there are also some things you can do to the block, kinda like smoothing up your heads, smooth up the block so that the oil drains back much faster.
Just a thought, I'd hate to see you burn up your new stuff.
Curtis, I would stick with a stock oil pump too. I run the High Pressure Standard Volume pump and a 7qt Canton Road Race pan. I have heard nothing good coming from the high volume pump.
It looks like you got a good price on your parts, I think you can even save more by not getting ARP bolts for the block since you got new rods they will have good bolts in them.
Are you going to balance the engine externaly? if so then you will nead to get a new balancer and flexplate because you cant use your other balancer and flexplate if you want to use them then you have to have the engine internaly balanced.
It does not look like you are going to change the cam bearings in your parts list I would change them if I was rebuilding that motor and I would put in new freeze plugs too.