When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just want to make sure I understand what this means. When you install roller rockers, the instructions say "set preload". Does this mean, tighten the rocker adj. nut until contact is first made between the lifter, pushrod and rocker-arm?
Any additional turns after making contact?
I'm putting 1.6 roller rockers and LT-4 springs on my 94 LT-1 and don't want to take the valve covers off again. Unless that's the only way to adjust the valves, (with it running).
Also, do you have to use LT-4 valve-locks if you're using the LT-4 retainers? Same as LT-1's?
Last edited by johnnymo63; Apr 17, 2008 at 01:47 AM.
Adjusting hydraulic lifters while running I consider a last resort. Pre-load is just that. You make sure the lifter is on the base of the lobe and tighten to zero lash (many opinions on this one). The manufacturers pretty much agree that as you spin (wiggle, move up and down..whatever) the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger when you feel resistance...that is zero lash. The 1/2 - 3/4 turn should be .030 - .040 preload. Your rockers should have detailed instructions on this.
From Comp Cams instructions to get on the base of the lobe do one cylinder at a time, some do it differently and it works so this is just one manufacturer's instructions:
"When the exhaust valve begins to move, adjust the intake on that cylinder"
"When the intake valve is past max lift and is almost all the way down, adjust the exhaust on that cylinder"
Adjusting hydraulic lifters while running I consider a last resort. Pre-load is just that. You make sure the lifter is on the base of the lobe and tighten to zero lash (many opinions on this one). The manufacturers pretty much agree that as you spin (wiggle, move up and down..whatever) the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger when you feel resistance...that is zero lash. The 1/2 - 3/4 turn should be .030 - .040 preload. Your rockers should have detailed instructions on this.
From Comp Cams instructions to get on the base of the lobe do one cylinder at a time, some do it differently and it works so this is just one manufacturer's instructions:
"When the exhaust valve begins to move, adjust the intake on that cylinder"
"When the intake valve is past max lift and is almost all the way down, adjust the exhaust on that cylinder"
Sorry for the long post
This is what I feel is the best way to adjust hyd lifters preload. I never had had to do this job with the engine running since using this method. A little time consuming but it is a 'once and done' type of method for sure.
Indeed the additional turns after reaching zero lash is exactly what setting preload is all about.
Also, do you have to use LT-4 valve-locks if you're using the LT-4 retainers? Same as LT-1's?
I'm not sure it they are the same but the important issue it to match locks to retainers, i.e. both should be either 7deg or 10deg and use new locks in either case.
with intake manifold removed, look at the top of your hyd lifter, where the pushrod "seats"...you will see the "wire snap retainer ring" that holds the pushrod seat in the lifter...as the lifter is pre-loaded, the seat moves away (down) from the retainer and actual preload can be measured using an "L" wire feeler gauge (use a spark plug gapping "L" gauge wire tool or make your own "extended" one)
Thank you gentlemen. I've got used rockers (no instructions). 1/2 - 3/4 turn after zero lash, is what I was thinking, but now I'm not worried about doing it that way.
I'd go more towards the 3/4 turn end (I think the factory manual says 1 turn past zero lash). I've done it at 1/2 turn (per comp cams instructions) and had them make noise after wear-in.
Also, you can do them all with the engine in 2 positions (1/2 at #1 firing position and the other 1/2 at #6 firing position). No need to turn the engine over for each cylinder you're adjusting.
with intake manifold removed, look at the top of your hyd lifter, where the pushrod "seats"...you will see the "wire snap retainer ring" that holds the pushrod seat in the lifter...as the lifter is pre-loaded, the seat moves away (down) from the retainer and actual preload can be measured using an "L" wire feeler gauge (use a spark plug gapping "L" gauge wire tool or make your own "extended" one)
Cool - never heard that method before - sounds very accurate and takes the 'feel' out of it. A lot of first-timers bottom out the plunger because they're expecting more resistance when looking for zero lash.
May not work for the OP, though, if he's just changing out rockers and not removing the intake.
I found that the tolerance between just feeling resistance and not being able to twirl the pushrod is 1/8 turn so I set preload at 1/2 turn plus another 1/8 to assure that they are between 1/2 and 3/4 turn.