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I'm trying to install a piston return spring in my car.. do I need to remove the heads, or do I work it in through a hole I must drill? I have the high-performance rubber-form titanium core spring from KaleCo High Performance.. :)
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (Smash)
Jackdaroofer don't know JACK!!! For all out applications you need 'em in all cylinders. You an install them through the spark plug holes if you use a K-Form inverted spring compresser. Otherwise you'll have to bore a 1.888882 square hole in each cylinder wall. For longer life, be sure to have them vulcanized first. Also, do not use synthetic oil with these. I had to replace 2 sets before I figured that out. I hope these work as well for you as they did for me.
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (Smash)
Smash, GM issued a service bulletin yesterday about installing piston return springs. I doubt that you are aware of this. It says that return springs MUST be accompanied with 90 degree double reversed inside out plastic rod knockers or mud will accumulate in the mud valve and out of warranty warranties will be void.
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Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (CFI-EFI)
Jackdaroofer don't know JACK!!! For all out applications you need 'em in all cylinders. You an install them through the spark plug holes if you use a K-Form inverted spring compresser. Otherwise you'll have to bore a 1.888882 square hole in each cylinder wall. For longer life, be sure to have them vulcanized first. Also, do not use synthetic oil with these. I had to replace 2 sets before I figured that out. I hope these work as well for you as they did for me.
:smash: :smash: I know Jack!
You can only install them in the even numbered cylinders if they are all at top dead center!
Install in cylinders 1.3.5 on driver's side and 7.9 on passenger side
Don't drill holes in cylinder wall!!! Remove the heads so you can determine the radius of the springs you need!
Gees! You can get some bad advice here :smash:
:seeya
PS: I have a limited supply of RONCO Exhaust Vacuums left. They are going fast. For a limited time you can also get 354 and 373 degree universal joints as well. You will need them if you are contemplating changing you rear end
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (jackdaroofer)
I stand corrected. You probably DO know Jack.
I was assuming that you were starting out with the correct radius springs. I guess I learned what ASSUME means (again).
I was afraid that I had missed the boat on the Roncos. Will they work with my tunnel ram headers? Mine have the Stromburg bolt pattern.
Will the 354 degree joints work with my stock cam sprockets? Also, I've been planning to overdrive the cam. I figure if I can get the cam to speed up, maybe the crank will be forced to keep up. I have a new cam design, but I'm keeping it under wraps until I get it perfected.
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (CFI-EFI)
Can I use the Ronco's with my new Edelborough Power Band?
I just got this new band in and I don't want to overstress the fraxelnass.
My buddy has one of these in an F-Body and he says he can really feel it when the power band kicks in.
I've already nodded the rods and put in high performance babbits in the jaxenblat..
Jackdaman I already have the return springs but I guess I installed them wrong as I put them on the EVEN numbered cylinders.
I installed mine via the "intake" method. Just removed the intake and dropped them in the head runners. It was pretty easy, really.
Anybody else here have experience with the Edelborough Power Band?
CFI-EFI: I wish you luck with that cam-overspeeder. That's been a problem GM has had with these engines for years.
My cam only turns half as fast as the crankshaft. Been like this ever since I got the car. I'd be interested in this device when you get it perfected.
If I could get my cam to redline at about 5500-5999 RPM I could install a couple more Power Bands to take advantage of the increased crankshaft speed.
What affect do you think it might have on the crank urinal velocity?
Jack . . .EFI ... any advice on how to protrude here? :)
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (VetNutJim)
The fastest way is to remove all 4 wheels and drive over a nice high speed bump at 50mph. This will remove oil pan and give access to the crank. Remove rings and bearings with cold chisel and pop that sucker in there. Reinstall pan with bailing wire and gum (don't forget to snug up the Fergenson pins) and your good to go.
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (VetNutJim)
My cam only turns half as fast as the crankshaft. Been like this ever since I got the car. I'd be interested in this device when you get it perfected.
If I could get my cam to redline at about 5500-5999 RPM I could install a couple more Power Bands to take advantage of the increased crankshaft speed.
[Modified by VetNutJim, 8:14 PM 12/14/2001]
If you are looking at making more power up high in the RPM range (and it looks like you are), then you just need to swap out your tach. If you notice, factory tachs have their redlines set extremely low. If you put a 1/2 splitter in line with it, it will only read every other pulse, and you can effectively double your redline. This is according to the latest 'Understanding GM Rankine-style filter reducers'. Check out the latest SAE article #36-24-36 for the details. -M-
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (Smash)
You guys seem pretty knowlegable. I have a carb question. Do I have to synchonize my weber-quadrajet carb to use the mechanical vacuum secondary idle sytem or can I just bolt it on out of the box. Will I get more power if use it with the Carter-Holley fuel injection system that came on the engine ?
Once I get this finished I'll complete the crank driven valves and put in the square sided lead lined anti-freeze lifters. Gonna be sweet after I add the 250 hp nitroglycerine injection system.
VetNutJim -
I used the Edelborough Power band when it first came out. I had return it because to Edelborough because it requires 10W-0 oil which is causes my engine to sieze up. Maybe the synthetic version from Bustline will be better. Its supposed to be rated at 10W+50.
That reminds me. Anybody use the self propelled Hoover WindTunnel Blower system ? Good for 10 lbs of vacuum but you have to change the bag every 200 miles.
[Modified by AquaMetallic94LT1, 10:47 PM 12/14/2001]
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (AquaMetallic94LT1)
Do I have to synchonize my weber-quadrajet carb to use the mechanical vacuum secondary idle sytem or can I just bolt it on out of the box. Will I get more power if use it with the Carter-Holley fuel injection system that came on the engine ?
I got ticked off at carbs. Got mad at one I was tuning one day and threw the wrench right through the radiator of a stock VW beetle (Early style). Ever tried to fannangle with the parts guys about needing a new radiator in one of those? Geesh!
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (VetNutJim)
I all ready have the OD gears for the cam drive. It's the camshaft that I'm perfecting. Since I have a patent pending in Slobovia, I'll give you just a hint on how it works. Its made out of heat treated butyal rubber. Due to centrapical force, The lobes expand at higher rpms. The wilder cam, boosts power in the 6000 to 10,000 rpm range. The big problem right now is that the wooden roller lifters, keep leaving splinters in the lobes. The power increase is proven, and I'm taking advance orders. Anyone else care to help fund this reaearch?
Re: Need help installing piston return spring. (Smash)
This is a crucial part I left out with my rebuild. Without the added assistance, I'm expecting the pistons to quit returning in the next 10,000 miles or less. :(