C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear Brake Pad Replacement Short Cut??

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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 09:38 PM
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Default Rear Brake Pad Replacement Short Cut??

So the last time I replaced my rear brake pads on my 94 coupe, I followed the service manual to the letter. Including the fun step of disabling the parking brake automatic adjuster.

I wonder if that step is necessary or if there is a short cut that will work faster.

I am going to put on HP Plus pads in a couple of weeks for the track and I'm not sure that I will want to run them on the street. So I may be switching pads out somewhat frequently and want to fast-track (so to speak) the rear pad replacement process if I can.

Suggestions?
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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Hmm, dont know about the "automatic adjuster". I've done mine twice, and all I do is unhook the parking brake spring from the rear caliper. Just get a pair of vice-grips, get the near end of the spring, and lift it off the perch. Voila, you have free reign over the rear caliper.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jwalker87
Hmm, dont know about the "automatic adjuster". I've done mine twice, and all I do is unhook the parking brake spring from the rear caliper. Just get a pair of vice-grips, get the near end of the spring, and lift it off the perch. Voila, you have free reign over the rear caliper.
That is what I do as well, it's very fast and easy to swap pads.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 10:16 PM
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Sounds good as long as there isn't some difference between the model years.

I am the only one who took out the driver's side seat cushion, worked for 15 minutes removing the parking brake cover, and then dinked around with a fabricated wire holding the illusive pawl so that it disengaged from the drive sector (as per page 5F-5 of the 1994 Factory Service Manual)? You are sent to that section of the manual from the rear brake pad replacement section to be done prior to removing the caliper to replace the pads.

I wondered if that e-brake auto adjuster disengagement part of the process was doing anything for me other than manipulating 30-45 minutes of extra time and adding frustration.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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Sometimes the FSM has you do more than necessary...perhaps that is a precaution before removing the caliper completely? To just change the brake pads though, it isn't really necessary...I dunno.

I just replaced my rotors last weekend and had to remove the calipers to do so (requiring everything that changing pads needs) and ran into no problems with just unhooking the spring. I have a '96, so there shouldn't be any differenced with the rear brakes between ours...
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 11:17 PM
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I don't even bother with disconnecting the spring, and everything still works great even on my steep driveway.

It has been my suspicion that disabling the adjuster is needed when one does remove the spring, as one end of the cable will be loose. I may be wrong. Someday soon I hope to have enough time to rebuild & paint mine, and I'll go ahead and follow all of the FSM instructions.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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The only reason to remove the parking brake spring is if you need to swap the rotor out. You can do the pad change without that step, just release the parking brake. If memory serves me correct, the reason the factory service manual requires disabling the automatic adjuster is to jack up the billing hours the dealer charges.

Last edited by Sidney004; Apr 22, 2008 at 11:27 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 11:29 PM
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I helped a fellow forum member replace the rotors and pads on his '94.
We didn't touch the adjuster. I don't know why the FSM says to do
that. benny
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 11:37 PM
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One caveat: I don't think a socket will fit on the guide pin bolt with the spring in the way. If I'm remembering corectly, I just re-torqued by hand with a box wrench and called it a day.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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I changed the pads few times and swaped for new rotors. I didn't use the FSM's even though I have them. I don't recall messing with a spring.

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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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I pulled my brakes off completely, painted the calipers, changed out the rotors, even swapped rear bearings...I didn't even think about messing with any adjusters.

Just to swap pads you should be able to (with e-brake off) disconnect one caliper bolt and swing it out of the way on the other one. Pretty quick.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyclonite
I pulled my brakes off completely, painted the calipers, changed out the rotors, even swapped rear bearings...I didn't even think about messing with any adjusters.

Just to swap pads you should be able to (with e-brake off) disconnect one caliper bolt and swing it out of the way on the other one. Pretty quick.

That is what I did, was easy and fast
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jrp
One caveat: I don't think a socket will fit on the guide pin bolt with the spring in the way. If I'm remembering corectly, I just re-torqued by hand with a box wrench and called it a day.
That is why I pop the spring off. No troubles! I've removed the parking brake now though as extra weight.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyclonite
Just to swap pads you should be able to (with e-brake off) disconnect one caliper bolt and swing it out of the way on the other one. Pretty quick.


This is exactly how you change the rear brakes on a later C4. Takes longer to take the rear wheels off than it does to swap the pads.
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