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Need Help with electric draw

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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 08:27 PM
  #1  
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Big Rat 427
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Default Need Help with electric draw

All of a sudden my battery keeps getting drained. I pulled the battery cable and put a test light in between the cable and the battery. Test light is on bright. I started pulling each fuse one by one, and the light never went off.

Correct me if am wrong by checking for a current draw this way, but I thought this would work. My problem now is I cannot find my battery draw. Any suggestions. Car is an 85.

Thanks

Last edited by Big Rat 427; Apr 23, 2008 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 08:35 PM
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You need an amp meter.

Here's the article I used to find my problem.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_05...ns/index1.html
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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Yes, your test is correct. A amp meter will tell you more specifically how much current is being drawn, however, a bright light is not a good sign.

Are all the lights off, interior? Is the door closed? You do this with the key out of the ignition, right?
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:08 PM
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go behind the battery to the main 12v junction block and have a look there - this is where the fusible links get feed from
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by UnderPar
You need an amp meter.

Here's the article I used to find my problem.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_05...ns/index1.html
tried tha amp meter, not very good with one, but followed the instructions onthe website, said not to turn headlights on, it would blow the fuse. so with every thing off, I connected it in place of the test light I was using. Well it must be a severe draw cause it blew out all the fuses in my craftsman meter. Like I said the light is bright in the test light, major draw. I just don;t know where to start looking if with all the fuses out, there is still a draw.


TWISED - what am I looking for around the fusable links. what signs, etc.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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Electric problems can be a bitch. Check all your connectors. I had a connector rot out on my boat and had a massive draw.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jsup
Electric problems can be a bitch. Check all your connectors. I had a connector rot out on my boat and had a massive draw.

Lot of dang connectors on these cars, just trying to find a starting point.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Rat 427
Lot of dang connectors on these cars, just trying to find a starting point.
Pick a connector, any connector.

When you put them back together, use dielectric grease in the connections, can't hurt.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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The junction block has about 10 12volt leads going to it, it is a post with them all stacked, towards the engine behind the battery
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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OK, latest update... I am following wires, and off the battery cable there is a 3 way splice each with snap connectors. I assume these three are what feed power to the entire car while the main cable goes down to the starter. Well I unclipped all three each one at a time to see which on might have the draw. well with all three disconnected there is still a heavy draw. the only thing I believe still connected to the battery is the starter. So my best guess, and thats all I got right now, is the starter has a short in it. Have heard of starter shorting out, so I may pull and replace tomorrow. see if thats the problems. Agree/Disagree ?????
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Rat 427
OK, latest update... I am following wires, and off the battery cable there is a 3 way splice each with snap connectors. I assume these three are what feed power to the entire car while the main cable goes down to the starter. Well I unclipped all three each one at a time to see which on might have the draw. well with all three disconnected there is still a heavy draw. the only thing I believe still connected to the battery is the starter. So my best guess, and thats all I got right now, is the starter has a short in it. Have heard of starter shorting out, so I may pull and replace tomorrow. see if thats the problems. Agree/Disagree ?????
I would suspect a lot of heat if it were the starter / solenoid

can you get to it to feel it?
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 11:14 PM
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The jump start bolt behind the battey has 8 wires and each wire has a fusible link. Remove the nut on this bolt, and with your light in series with the negative battery cable and the neg batt terminal, remove the wires one at a time. If the light goes out, follow that wire to identify the circuit/s it powers. If the starter is drawing current, most likely the starter solenoid is stuck closed because at the end of its stroke it forces two large copper conductors together that switch current to the starter motor. These conductors get black and pitted and sometimes stick together. If you want to use an ammeter, you will need one that has a full scale of 20 or more amps. GM says leakage current shouldn't exceed 50 milliamps. My 87 draws 27 ma. and I have no battery problems.
Also, at night connect the charged up battery and check for underhood lights, vanity mirror lights, door map lights, center console light. Don't leave the keys in the ignition because this keeps the anti theft circuit on. Do you have a radar detector or CB, aftermarket alarm, or radio or audio amplifier? Check em. One common problem is the seat adjuster switch stays on. Connect the battery up for half an hour and feel the seat adjust motors to see if they are warm.
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