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Do i need to get a rebuild with kolene steels and billet servo's this is on a 94 lt1 car it will be getting a 2500 rpm stall, and it is a daily driver future mods may be a hot cam with some mild heads or a le2 package. Thanks in advance for the advice
Do i need to get a rebuild with kolene steels and billet servo's this is on a 94 lt1 car it will be getting a 2500 rpm stall, and it is a daily driver future mods may be a hot cam with some mild heads or a le2 package. Thanks in advance for the advice
thanks pete and every one else. lets see what the builder says tomorrow they should be getting me prices both ways. the builder does not use the z pack because the steels are to thin he uses raybesto's for every thing but it packs a couple extra clutchs in the 3 4 clutch area
Huh!?!?!? "steels are too thin" ummmm, has he seen a z pack? It uses less friction clutchs ....hence they are thicker. Plus, the z pack is one sided frictions with NO STEELS. It is a very stout piece. PLUS. . . . they are made by RAYBESTO!!!!
For me it was a choice between Borg Warner and Z pack.....with few other clutch packs in the same category. The reason I went with the z pack was because of the price...otherwise I'd sprung for the BWs.
Thats the reason why I rebuilt my own.
Originally Posted by byedan
thanks pete and every one else. lets see what the builder says tomorrow they should be getting me prices both ways. the builder does not use the z pack because the steels are to thin he uses raybesto's for every thing but it packs a couple extra clutchs in the 3 4 clutch area
thanks pete and every one else. lets see what the builder says tomorrow they should be getting me prices both ways. the builder does not use the z pack because the steels are to thin he uses raybesto's for every thing but it packs a couple extra clutchs in the 3 4 clutch area
Every builder has his own recipe for success. You almost have no choice but to let the builder you choose have sole control over parts content. It will be the only way to get any sort of a warrantee.
The last thing a professional trans guy wants a customer to do is carry in a list of parts they read about on the internet. Can't blame them I guess.
Every builder has his own recipe for success. You almost have no choice but to let the builder you choose have sole control over parts content. It will be the only way to get any sort of a warrantee.
The last thing a professional trans guy wants a customer to do is carry in a list of parts they read about on the internet. Can't blame them I guess.
I had to pass on the warranty to have a local shop build the trans with the parts I ordered. A little scary I guess but the last trans rebuilt by the dealership only lasted about three years. The local trans shop owner probably didn't like it too much when I asked him to make sure his guys follow the included highlighted instructions. He was nice enough to play along though.
I agree with you. I guess my statements were poorly placed. :o Plus, I don't want to eat my words if my Z pack lets me down....
Anyway,I guess the cliche is becoming true. . . .I am becoming a PITA vette owner. . . .thats how much I love my car..
Originally Posted by Pete K
Every builder has his own recipe for success. You almost have no choice but to let the builder you choose have sole control over parts content. It will be the only way to get any sort of a warrantee.
The last thing a professional trans guy wants a customer to do is carry in a list of parts they read about on the internet. Can't blame them I guess.
I agree with you. I guess my statements were poorly placed. :o Plus, I don't want to eat my words if my Z pack lets me down....
Anyway,I guess the cliche is becoming true. . . .I am becoming a PITA vette owner. . . .thats how much I love my car..
When the z-pak first came out, they were problematic. They overccame the problems (as far as I can tell), and are my newest 3-4 pack of choice. I am just a floor guy though
Transmissions were my hobby.
Some hobby.....your as close to an expert as it gets on this forum Pete when it comes to a 4L60E
Since I have one custom rebuild under my belt with some problems and lessons learned, I would go with the Kolene steels with Alto high performance frictions, and the Zpac for the 3-4.
Also, pin/stake the PWM Pulse Width Modulation Valve (fully forward - open) that controls fluid flow to the torque converter lockup clutch during lockup if you are going to a smaller diameter torque converter (stock is 12" diam.) or you'll end up with the dreaded lockup clutch slippage due to the smaller diameter clutch surface. Did mine and it works like a champ with my 3,000 stall protorque lockup converter
Last edited by 95BLKVette; Apr 29, 2008 at 10:59 PM.